All Topics / Value Adding / Painting Advice Needed from Seasoned Renovators Please!
Hi All
Just wanting some advice please as to painting a queenslander that l live in (PPOR). I've ripped out the old kitchen and polished the floor boards and now want to paint the walls before putting a new kitchen in. They are vj with about 6 layers of paint and in poor condition. What is the best option for me to bring up to scratch. Paint strip the walls, sand, steam or plasterboard over?? Any advice would be helpful.
Cheers
Suzie
Hi
We have just renovated a QLD'r – being that my other half is a plasterer by trade, he has kept at least one wall as VJ's in each room and gyprocked the rest creating a mix of old and new. (It actually looks quite good). Vj's are alot of work, so at the end of the day it is up to you which route you want to choose, but to bring them up to scratch for painting you would need to scrape back flaking paint, sand problem areas and fill any holes, then no more gap between the grooves. We used 1 box of no more gaps per room and it took a good part of the day to do. We then rollered the wall (no brushing needed – except where you need to cut in) doing 2 coats.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Hi Cat159
Thanks for the advice.
You are certainly right that JV's are a lot of work. I like the idea of gyprock and jv together. Will try and have a go myself.
Thanks again.
Cheers
We have queenslanders, and I think you will lose value if you gyprock over them. People generally want VJ walls when they buy a queenslander and I think you could be making a mistake hiding them. At least if you gyprock over them, somebody can take it off later if they chose, but that is a waste of money for you to have somebody knock down your future sale price because of the work they have to do do return it to its former glory.
I have painted many VJ walls, and if you have time, gapping them certainly looks best, but if you don't have time, just paint and gap them next paint job.
Multi layered paint can be removed using a product called peelaway. It is a slow acting stripper that is applied as a thick layer and covered with a special laminate paper. I used this product to strip a hardwood floor in Chermside because the nails could not be punched and sanding could not be carried out. The other alternative is using a mdf VJ look alike board and resurfacing the walls.
Another point is the original paint may contain lead and you would have to follow the appropriate method of removal to local Govt specification.
The best way to paint VJ walls is with a roller, start from near the bottom and slowly push the roller up the wall spreading the paint out. If you place a loaded roller on at the top of the wall the paint will drip allover the ground below.
Good luck…
Hi, Im a painter. It really depends what sort of condition the VJ boards are in, if the paint is solid, dont try to scratch it back, you'll make a huge mess and the slow process will destroy your enthusiasm, as well as your spare time.
Alot of older VJ homes are solid enough, if the boards need alot of work and alternative to plasterboard would be MDF VJ panels. Keeping the VJ look, but with a more modern feel (and no big gaps between the boards). Im currently doing a reno on a house in toowoomba, it has a mix of plasterboard and VJ (plasterboard ceilings) and it just doesnt feel right, Call me old fashioned but i do very much like the VJ look. Also it had pressed metal ceilings that have been covered over with plasterboard. Which once again im not very fond of.
So, if the paint is solid, i would instead sand it with an orbital sander, Use a scarsten (im a painter, i cant spell very well) scraper for the 'V' sections. once its all sanded, I would suggest a coat of oil based undercoat. Alot of people cant handle the fumes of oil paints, if thats you, opt for an acrylic option. Something like Solver PSU (primer sealer undercoat) it will hold on well to the old painted surface.
A roller is an option, i hate the finish it gives though, personally i would go for a spray gun (VJ with good prep work looks great finished off the gun) If a roller is your only option, I would thin the paint and roll the walls, then tip them off with a brush, giving it the brushed look, without the hours and hours of mind numbing chore.
Once its all coated, putty any holes in the walls (where pictures hooks and whatnot have been) give them a light sand and recoat with whatever your wall finish will be, most likely Low sheen.
You can (and most likely will) no more gaps the 'V's'. Although I agree, yes it does look a whole heap better. Chances are by the time you have finished the room next door, all the no more gaps will have broken out. Its not recommended, and the manufacturer of the gaps will not warrenty it.
Hope that helps
Steve
Sorry just re-read your original post.
If the walls are in really bad shape, use an 80 or 60 grit sand paper on an orbital. Putting paint stripper on and scraping it off will make a big mess of the boards
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