hi I plan to install laminate floor board to our new property, but my wife said it will be cold like hell when you step on it during winter. Is that true? Our current property all carpeted but tile in kitchen and bathroom, tile definately cold like hell but how about floor board?
Yes floor boars can be cold in winter but you can always put some rugs down.The great thing about floor boards is that you don't have to worry about stains etc like carpet.
I think it comes down to personal choice. My prefernce is floor boards in living areas an carpet in the bedrooms.
I love themodern look that floor boards bring!
Good Luck
Banjo
Having carpet in the house I live in I have noticed that high traffic areas wear down the carpet. This reinforces what Banjo is advising. Also a lot of tenants prefer wooden floors and I think the reason could be allergies to dust mites, needing to have carpets steam cleaned at the end of a tenancy, plus what Banjo was saying about stains and also if a cigarette is dropped on the carpet it burns.
In one house I rent out the shower leaked through the tiles and flooded the carpet in the hall way and it had to be replaced.
If you go for a raised wooden flooring option remember that it is not advisable in wet areas like kitchens, laundries and bathrooms as water damages the raised veneer wooden flooring. Ceramic Tiles or Vinyl is an option in wet areas if no floor boards exist like when a house on a concrete slab or chip board has been used for flooring in newer buildings
I have some wooden floors in a house in a cold area and it is freezing to walk on the floor in winter – you would need slippers!
But it is good in summer and cleaner as the dust doesn't build up like it does in the carpet. But you need to clean more often because it is more visible.
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We like floorboards even though they may take a little extra cleaning and care. They are like a little black dress that are timeless and never look out of place. They can be used in all types of homes from federation to contemporary and you really can’t go wrong. If it is your PPOR then a few well positioned rugs should add that cosy warm feeling.
Tiles are better in wet areas but if you want to use them in other areas then I would consider underfloor heating as they are freezing in the winter. It is relatively inexpensive to install the only problem is the heating costs are high and not very environmentally friendly.
We don’t have children with allergies so we prefer carpet in the bedrooms. If you’re using different floor treatments just make sure you allow for the different levels so they end up flush.
Adrian and Amber Zenere
http://www.RealEstateDevelopmentClub.comJust picking up on the LAMINATE wood flooring. We had that in the PPOR we have just sold. Quite large open areas, kitchen and hall way. We had a wood fire and the floor holds the heat nicely. Much better than the tile one we are currently in. We still had a couple of mats. Interestingly, it didnt seem as hard as the current tile one…..
A couple of additional things to consider, mopping is a challange as excess water in the joins will cause it to swell, so spills muct be attended to ASAP. I missed an esky overflow and a where the moisture was absorbed by the flooring, a slight swellig occured. A family member who mops with an old fashioned "dolls head?" mop has noticed slight swelling in all her joins, you mostly niticeit when the light is in the right spot and looking along rather then from on top. You really need to be as close as you can to dry mopping.
That said, I did like the duribility of the laminate, we had 2 small children on it for 4 years and minimal marks. I am not sure that a "real" wooden floor would have stood up so well.
Hope that helps.
Mick
great opinions, I love this forum.. any idea where to get floor heating stuff in wantirna area, melbourne?
newbi2 wrote:That said, I did like the duribility of the laminate, we had 2 small children on it for 4 years and minimal marks. I am not sure that a "real" wooden floor would have stood up so well..
Depends on the type of wood used and more importantly the finishing coats. I have yet to find something that's tougher then the 2 pack estapol 7001. The first Tassie oak (moderate hardness) parquetry floor I've done 22 years ago I covered it with 4 coats of estapol 7001 2 pack and didn't have to re-sand it for 20 years. And then the only reason I did that was because the gloss was gone from the hallway and it had a few scratches around the dining table from bits of sheetmetal stuck to my safety boots but other then that it still looked good. A light sanding and 2 coasts of estapol made it look as good as the day I installed it. I've spilled not only water but petrol, thinners, acetone, battery acid and even fixed the motorbike in the lounge then I sprayed degreaser to clean off the oil & grease and mopped it clean. I dare you to try that on a laminate floor.
calvinci wrote:great opinions, I love this forum.. any idea where to get floor heating stuff in wantirna area, melbourne?thanks Harb, but they don't have one for floating floor board and looks like gonna cost $3000-4000 for 100m2 area
Why do you need one for floating boards ? Wood is a good insulator, once the room has warmed up you can go bare foot. I wouldn't bother with heating under the wood, if cold feet are a problem then a better solution would be something like this: http://www.mitsubishielectric.com.au/MFZ-KA-VA_Floor_mounted.htm
OK Harb,
I am suitabely impressed with your wooden floor and will have to note down the estopol because I truley didnt think it would have been that durable. There must be a lot of tight ar$*$ around finising of the wood, I have seen even the dogs toenails leave scratches!!!!
Cheers
Mick
Just noticed I typed the wrong # , it should have been 7008 Estapol . 7001 is the battery I keep forgetting to buy
There is some extra work when applying the finish because of the timing between coats, if you start in the evening you should be able to finish the job without waking up the neighbors. When you're ready to seal it get your Estapol 7008 and mix it with 30% reducer. That way it goes deep into the grain and down between timber joints properly, I found the 10% recommended is a bit thick to penetrate all the way down between timber joints. Use a lambswool aplicator and be generous with this coat and make sure you cover the edge around the walls properly. For the second coat I mix with 10% reducer and finished third and forth with just straight 7008 and a roller. If you've done the first coat right the floor has become waterproof. Leftover is also good for waterproofing concrete fish ponds.
Down side to 7008 is that it comes in gloss only and if you want to re-coat it down the track you have to use the 7008 again. That and if you spill it and it cures you can only remove it with a lot of sandpaper and hard work.http://www.wattyl.com.au/DIY/Products/ProductSearch/Product_Details.htm?Id=439
cheers,
harry
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