does your stain has a U.V stabiliser?
a binding agent?
you using a mask & gloves when handling oxide?
is your home brew toxic?
where did you get the recipe?how will it look in 12 months?
Hi Jase and Flic
I really enjoyed reading your post. Congratulations on your work. I would love to come up and have alook at your progress in person one day if that's OK. I live about 10 mins away.
Peter
aussieinvestor | Digital Revenue Pty Ltd
http://appliancewhiz.com
Email MeMon 6th Aug
-bought the paint for inside.
-borrowed a pressure cleaner
-booked the renderer, roof sprayer, glazier
-applied for bunnings account
-took off some architraves that were on backwards
-measured up a materials list for all deck repairs, handrail repairs, cementsheet cladding on deck, fascia repairs, new arcs to replace what I took off, and a couple of doors to replace
-met an agent to discuss the appraisal she did last week. The sale is looking good. Hi demand, low supply, and coming into spring which is historically the time in Melb when property heats up.Hi crashy – I really don't know. Linseed oil and turps is a very oldschool method of weather proofing timber. I have just added the oxide powder. I know from experience that once oxide gets on something, it stains it for good. So I guess time will tell. I wouldn't use the stain on anything too important, but an old fence is worth a shot.
Hi Peter
No probs mate. Drive by whenever it suits you. If I am there just come find me. If not then grab my number off the sign and give me a call. I should be there every day this week, unless I duck out to grab something.Well done guys, I've been keeping an eye on this, so much so that I've signed up so I can leave my say – for what it's worth!! Keep up the good work.
Mrs Bushy!!Tues 7th Aug
Thanks Mrs Bushy! And Mr too!
-ordered timber for carport and deck handrail etc
-bought new arcs, some cornice, plaster etc
-replaced a rusted downpipe
-patched up holes in plaster
-framed and plastered the fridge opening (it was too short, so made it higher)Hi Jase & Flic! Great work!!! Loive it and liek some members addicted to your thread. Just a question with the homemade stain you made… did you have to sand the fence first before staining? Thanx mate
Wed 8th Aug
-replaced some rotten fascia
-pressure washed 3/4 of the roof
-took delivery of timber for carport etc
-had another agent do an appraisal
-electricity got turned on
-a sparky came to quote on downlights etcHi bpudadera, No, I didn't sand the fence first. The stain just soaked right in.
I did apply straight linseed&turps (no oxide) to the base boards around bottom of deck, and I sanded that first because it had green algae on the timber. Just a quick sand to take off the mould, then the linseed made the timber look darker and fresher. We also put the linseed on the cubby. It had previously had a stain, but was starting to fade and looked dry and grey. The linseed made it much fresher. You can probly see it in the photos.
We tried the straight linseed&turps on the fence as well, but it didn't make a big enough impovement, so that's why I added the oxide to give it more color. The fence looks good even up close. I have rubbed my hand over the timber and no stain came off on my hand, so it seems to have soaked right into the timber.Excuse my ignorance as it's a long time since I did any hands on renovations.
Does the turps work as a drier for the linseed oil. Is that it's intention?
I used to use 10% Terebin (I don't know if this is how it's spelt) which is/was a paint drier for this and it was great .
I used to paint 1 or 2 coats on woodwork which I had stripped of all paint (in terrace houses) and it really brought up the grain a treat without being oily.Love this thread
ElkaIm wondering if decking oil is just linseed oil & turps?
bought some decking oil a while ago & it faded within a week. maybe they were more turps than oil?
Thurs 9th Aug
-finished pressure hosing the roof
-cleaned gutters also
-started framing up for cement sheet cladding on deck areaRE: pressure cleaning roof and gutters
I had an unexpected problem when the hose hit the gutters. I suddenly noticed a series of small holes in the bottom of gutter. Guess there was rust under all those rotting leaves!
At first I thought I would have to replace all gutters (ouch!) but spoke to a plumber mate and he suggested look at bitumen paint.
So went to Bunnings, found several brands, and selected one that says it is designed for metal roofs and gutters. The instructions also said to get some rust preventing primer if the surface was rusty. Also got some bitumen putty.
So plan is to pressure clean gutters thoroughly to remove all loose rust (already done), then after gutters are dry apply a coat of the rust preventing primer, then bitumen putty over all holes, then 2 coats of bitumen paint over entire inside surface of gutter.
This should make gutters quite water tight, and I think it will last for a few years at least.
At first I thought it was a dodgy idea, but after seeing that there are products designed for it I think I would do the same thing to my own home, because all the materials only cost me $76, so to extend the life of the gutters for a few years that is quite good.elkam wrote:Excuse my ignorance as it's a long time since I did any hands on renovations.Does the turps work as a drier for the linseed oil. Is that it's intention?
I used to use 10% Terebin (I don't know if this is how it's spelt) which is/was a paint drier for this and it was great .
I used to paint 1 or 2 coats on woodwork which I had stripped of all paint (in terrace houses) and it really brought up the grain a treat without being oily.Hi elkam,
I don't really know for sure. I just heard from somewhere ages ago that a 50/50 mix of linseed and turps was an oldschool method of weather proofing timber. I often use it for handles on garden tools etc, and anything else that is not good quality furniture. It lasts about a year.
I think the turps makes it soak into the timber more, and possible helps with drying too.
I know people use straight linseed oil on cricket bats too.Hi crashy
Sorry, I don't really know what goes into normal deck stain. If it is a water based product then it would not have linseed oil or turps in it, but if it's oil based then who knows? Maybe we're onto their big secret recipe?!Hi Jase and Flic,
Thanks for the info and details you are posting. I saw you present your deal at the Troy and Bec meeting and am thrilled to be able to read how you are getting on.
I also live in South East suburbs and am considering taking on a renovation some time soon. Would you mind if I called in to the site to say hi and take a quick look at your project?
Cheers
John
Fri 10th Aug
-replace and repaired all rotting timber on handrails around deck. This took me longer than expected because the rot was worse than I thought. I had to do a lot of cutting out rot from the posts, shaping new timber pieces to fit the holes, glue and nail them in, then builders bog over it all. I used about 3/4 of a 1kg tin of builders bog. I love that stuff. Ended up replacing almost all the railings, and repaired the posts.
-filled nail holes etc and sanded so the railings are ready for paint now
-cut to length timber for the balusters
-bought all the cement sheet and blueboard that I need for tomorrow.Also had some helpers who:
-painted 1st coat on the balusters
-sanded almost all the arcs, skirts, and doors
-started undercoating the arcs etc.Hi John, come by anytime. Call me on 0411 424 871 if you want to check that I'll be there.
Big day tomorrow. Lots of helpers.
Hi Jase & Flic,
I am new to this forum, but I have taken great interest in your thread since you started it. I must say your thread is nothing short of inspiring .
How on earth do you manage all this work on the project and work what I presume is a fulltime job? Have you taken some form of leave from your employer?
My best friend and I recently set up a business together and purchased our first IP (small 3Brm +garage) in the outer western suburbs – Melton (prices much more affordable there).
We were lucky to get it at a reasonable price($150,00+on costs) and it had been painted inside + new carpet , but required a considerable amount of cleaning both inside and the backyard. We have managed to rent it already @$185 per week and are considering building a deck and painting the outside and get a revaluation. We had two valuations prior to purchase and they came in at $175-$185,000
Prior to purchase we had unlimited access to the property and I put in many hours cleaning the place, fitting and painting some new doors + all new security locks and a heap of new light fittings,down lights, etc and generally preparing it for renting.
I found it very difficult working fulltime and doing that on my weekends.
I am fairly good with handyman tasks and there's not a lot I won't have a go at (fathers side of family were builders) but I am not sure if we can do a great deal more with this property other than the deck and a coat of paint.
The block however is large enough to fit (STCA) another dwelling in the backyard and we are considering this option but $$$ may be the problem.
I am really interested in the wrap system to try and achieve + cashflow rather than negative gearing or resell at a profit at this stage.
Do you or anyone else on the thread know where I can get more info. Steve McKnight is no longer selling the wrap pack and the only other option I have seen is Rick Otten? (very expensive) Can it even be legally done in Victoria?
The reason I am interested in the wraps system is ( as Steve points out in his last book) you get to a stage where your income cannot cope with the make up costs of too many negative geared properties.
Anyway keep up the good work and good luck when you sell.Russ
why doesn't Steve sell the wrap pack any more?
Hey there,
Great post, I have been watching with interest since I am basically doing the same thing up in Cairns. Although I try to add a couple of rooms and a bathroom to each one so they turn into positive cashflow. I am on my second reno now and almost finished, last one is the paper for rent this weekend. I also work full time so it can be done
Just a comment about the laminate floating floors – I used to install these for a living. You definitely do not have to take the architraves off. Just simply grab an offcut of board, lay it down next to the architrave on top of a piece of underlay, grab a handsaw or reciprocating saw, lay the saw on top of the offcut so the blade is parallel with the ground, and cut the bottom of the architrave off. Now when you go to lay the floor, you can just slide the board underneath the architrave for a perfect fit. I would also be hesitant to coat the floor with a poly, you can get a waterbased primer and sealer that you can just mop on in high wear and wet areas, it would be much more suitable. Also, if a board becomes damaged it can be quite easily replaced without ripping the whole floor up to the bad board
Good luck!
pinknic20 wrote:why doesn't Steve sell the wrap pack any more?Hi Nicole
I contacted Steve through the products line on this forum via email and the reply was:
Wrapping is an investment solution that is most applicable to solve the problem of finance. This is less of an issue in the current de-regulated finance industry, as the market has moved more into a value-add market. We may re-release the product in the future with some revisions, but we have no plans to do this in the immediate future.So as you can see, I need to somehow get the information elsewhere. If anyone has any info, please let me know.
Russ
Sat 11th Aug
Hi everyone
Re: the wraps, sorry I know nutting.Re: working hours: I am currently a subcontractor, so I can sort of choose my own hours. So since July 16 I have decided to work full time on this house. I have some other work coming up in about a week, so that will slow down the progress a little, but I still hope to do at least 3 days per week on this reno.
If I was still working full time this reno would take a very long time. My business partner still works full time though, and helps at the house on w/ends, so spare a thought for him.Today we had heaps of helpers- total of 47.5 man hours done on the house today, excluding subcontractors. We:
-got most of the cement sheet cladding done on the deck.
-undercoated the rest of the arcs, skirts & doors
-2nd coat on the balusters
-1st coat on the deck handrail
-started staining front fence
-started sanding outside window frames
-looked at 2 more housesAlso sparky's came and roughed in; renderers put on first coat.
A couple of progress photos are uploaded now http://www.flickr.com/photos/9273576@N06/?saved=1why are you cladding the deck?
Hi Jase & Flic,
Thanks for the response, I want to apologise for "thread hogging" with my questions about wraps. I am very new at this and was unaware of my breach of forum 'etiquette' until my wife spotted it and gave me a lecture. I have now seen the error of my ways and will now put the question to the forum in a more appropriate topic area.
I really look forward to viewing your progress on the home reno over the coming weeks.The photos look great by the way.
Good luck.
Russ
Hi crashy
We are making the deck into an almost fully enclosed outdoor living area. It will have rendered walls, a bar overlooking backyard, bistro blinds, and be fully private from street. The house itself is not huge, so we thought this would be an economical way of increasing living area.Hi rbooth
No probs mate.
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