- Originally posted by freeman cooper:
In wet areas it is a good idea to use a satin finish because this is less porous and easier to clean.
Hope this helps
regards
FrankSo in the bathroom I should use satin finish?
For both roof and walls?Hi Everyone,
I have an IP @ lock up stage and will need to organise painting for it soon, can any one give me an indication of cost to paint a 4×2 and any recommendations of painters in Perth WA would also be appreciated.
Regards
Hi Guys,
A good guide for the price of painting is about $250 per sqare (100 sq feet). That is for new and providing you don’t have to do too much work to the plaster.
When quoting older places I would quote by the condition of the plaster, whether it needed work etc.In bathrooms I would definately use a satin, you reduce the chance of getting mould which can cause all sorts of issues to your health.
It might also be a good idea to add some anti mould into the paint, I have always done this as a standard.Hope this helps guys
Regards
Frankadding antimould to the paint. explain this.
I know its to stop the mould. but how does it stop and how do you do it (prices and other info).Christopher Fife
Thank you Frank.
I think I used to ignorantly just use wall paint on the ceilings too. A waste of money but I guess no harm done.
Cheers [smiling]
ElkaHi Christopher,
You can buy anti mould from most paint shops or Bunnings for about $12.
One manufacturer is a company called Flood. You simply add the specified amount into the paint, stir and it helps to protect from the growth of mould.
Some paint stores will charge you extra to add additives in for you for a few extra dollars.
If you are using an enamel paint it might be a good idea to add odour eliminator.
Regards
FrankHi all
Bunnings have paint with the anti mould in it, it’s not that much more expensive tha dulux mid range.
variation – if you come across a painter in Perth called Hanson and he is asian run a mile. even though his cutting in is good, he takes ages, some of the other tradies told me he was a sleep in his car most of the time, he took 21 days to paint my house!! and I do not think he did all the sanding, the 2-3 coats he said he would do, and when the afternoon sun comes in the front door I have about 12 long runs coming down from the art recess. AND he loves spending all his time telling you how good he is.
He drove me madCeleste
hi Frank
Not to belittle your profession or nothing, but is home interior painting a task that can be learned and performed by the average “handy man” ?? ie is the prep and actual painting practicle to be taken on by an amateur and is it possible for them to get a good finish??? never done it before as yet but cant see any reason i couldnt learn how to do it and do it fairly goodHi Frank,
we have an investment property in QLD and we painted the ceiling in the bathroom with bathroom paint (it was the cheapest one) and now the tenants have complained as the ceiling paint is peeling, What paint should we use now? Do we need to do any prep before paint it again?
Thanks[blink]To unknown soldier,
There is no reason that you can’t paint as good as a pro.
Once you learn some basic techniques all you are doing is repeating them over and over ie:rolling and brushing until you complete the house.
Apart from my training I got a lot of resourses from paint shops, bunnings etc. Some of them have videos and leaflets that show you the technique.
I once gave a 20 minute lesson to a group on basic painting and had to assess them. They all passed. Good luck. why not try?
Maybe I should make a video.To hot property investors
Bath rooms are not as simple as they seem.
You may have a few issues going on.
Some bath rooms are painted using enamel paint, it is normally shinier than normal paint. If you try to paint over this using acrylic paint without doing some prep. It may peel.
Another problem may be that you did not clean the walls prior to painting. Bath room surfaces acumilate a certain amount of body fats. Imagine when you boil a piece of silverside in a pot with the lid on. The lid acumilates fat deposits. Same with the walls.
You may have painted over mould which loves body fat.
It is always best to wash with sugar soap. If it is a glossy surface, sand using about 120 grit sand paper or sanding block.
As for your peeling, I would use an orbital sander with 100 paper, remove as much of the loose material as possible, paint using either satin acrylic or enamel adding Emulsabond to acrylic or Penatrol to enamel and add anti mould to either paint.
Hope this helps
Regards
FrankYou normally have the issue
Celeste thanks for the heads up, I will be sure too listen for the name before hiring a painter.
Hi Frank,
I hope you don’t mind yet another question. I need some advice on removing wallpaper. It is a lovely 70’s bright orange floral pattern! Many bits are half peeling.
I called Bunnings and they told me to buy a wall paper removal solution and cover the paper with that. Another friend said that I need to hire a steam machine?
And then what would I need to do to prep the wall for paint? Sand it, clean it with sugar soap? I am very daunted by this, I have a feeling it will be much harder than I think…
Lena
Hi Lena,
It realy is’nt as daunting as it seems.
Most wall paper comes in two sections. Normally the part that is peeling may be the top layer part. If you peel it dry the wall paper seperates and you would be left with a film of paper on the wall that you apply the wall paper remover with a brush. You can buy it from paint shops or bunnings. Apply it once and see how much it soaks in. You may have to apply it 2 or 3 times. Most importantly to potentialy save yourself a lot of work, scrape it off with a PLASTIC scraper. This will not dig into the wall and the paper should fall away easily. There are vinyl wall papers that are a lot harder to strip.
In all my time as a painter I have only encountered 1 wall with vinyl wall paper. I have never had the need to hire a steamer and believe they are more work than doing it the way I mentioned. When you have striped the wall you must wash it with sugar soap and it is most important that you rince it with warm water to remove any glue residue.
If the wall paper is vinyl you need to hire or buy a scorer that makes small holes in the wall paper to allow the striper to soak in.
A normal room takes me about 1 hour from start to finish and ready for paint.
Hope that helps
Regards
FrankThat’s great, thanks Frank!
Lena
[builder]Hi Guys,
Just thought I might add something,
Today I was painting a house in Brunswick and was overcome by the fumes.
I had the window open but it got to windy and I did’nt want dust to come in. I had a dust mask on but had my top off and the fumes got in through my skin.
This will take about a week or so to get over, nausia, head ache etc.
Silly me.
I should have used odour eliminator.Regards
FrankHi Frank,
Have you had any experience with the old timber panelling? My kitchen was covered in it. I’ve ripped it down as best I could. As I’ve removed it it’s taken parts of the gyprock paper with it. Is this fixable? I’ve spoken to a few people with mixed answers but seeing that you’re in the know, any thoughts…?
Cheers,Globe.
Originally posted by freeman cooper:A good guide for the price of painting is about $250 per sqare (100 sq feet). That is for new and providing you don’t have to do too much work to the plaster.
When quoting older places I would quote by the condition of the plaster, whether it needed work etc.Hi Frank,
We are just about to finish our bathroom reno (which is the final stage of our reno. Yay!!).
There are some touch-ups to be done. So far we’ve painted the entired apartment (’60s solid brick) ourselves. We’ve run out of steam & would like to get a pro to finish the job for us.
These are the areas:
Bathroom Wall (above the tile/door, below the ceiling. Less than 3 sqm I think)
Bathroom Ceiling (new plaster boaod).
Balcony Ceiling (appox 1sqm, new cement board)
3 Doors (internal, one with single pane galss).
Some patch-up on walls.
Some touch-up on dirty spots.We already have the paint. He might need to supply some underc coat.
I’ve asked one painter. He said it’d take 3 days (@$300 per day, or $250 per day cash-in-hand); as the doors will need to be painted a couple of coats in oil based enamal (which takes longer to dry).
I know the work is fiddly, but does this quote sound reasonable to you??
I’d love to know what you think (and the apartment is in St Kilda East, Melb…….if you can recommend anyone).
Thankyou in advance!
P.S. You generous advice here has been priceless!! I’ve been taking notes [blush2]……..
Hi salsachinita,
It does sound like a lot.
I would get a few more quotes. Maybe suggest they take the doors home. I have done this for customers in the past and it has saved them money.
There is an additive ( Terabine) you can add to enamel paint that reduces the drying time between coats from 24 hours to 6 hours. So the painter should be able to do the first coat when he gets there and the 2nd coat befor he leaves. It sounds like it could be done in one day in theory. His day rate sounds right.
If the painter is male you might want to give him a time and money budget and ask him if he is capable of completing the job within
These limits and tell him that is all the money you have for that job. Most guys would look at that as a challenge,achieve it and beat their chest after completing the task. Otherwise they may dordle for 3 days and be less productive.
Just a tip, you get more of a painters skills if you do a lot of the mundane tasks like moving furniture, masking up, covering floors and furniture, prep etc, otherwise the painter will charge you $$30+ to do all that.
Sorry I can’t recomend anyone. If I had the time I would do it my self.
Regards
FrankOooh, thankyou, Frank [inlove]!!!
We are still waiting to hear from another painter (which our builder recommends).
This first quote came from the painter who does work for our Body Corporate/Building Insurance. He did our front door which was recently replaced by insurance (old door containing asbestos).
He did a quick job: two visits, one hour each. The result is quite ok (that’s why I’ve asked him).
I will try your advice! Thanks again.
Hi Frank, just a quick note to say thanks for giving these people, plus the other dozens just reading quietly, your help. Very nice.[thumbsup2]
Do you have a tip on how to make the paint at the cornice line of the roof be in a straight line! It is hard to have a steady hand.
Regards, kjs
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