I’m still to buy my first IP,but I’m currantly reading a book that says you should only try and put down 5% deposit on house when you sign contracts or try and stretch it out so that the 5% is paid before settlement but still only 5% not 10% as I thought was normal.
As so many of you have bought properties can I get some feedback on when and how much deposit you pay
Trisha, I just bought a couple of houses for $60K,
each after submitting a written offer including a ‘condition’ that I would pay $3k (5%)per house deposit. This wasnt questioned. I would say pay the least that you can get away with, does every one agree?
Rishmond
I did’nt mean the holding deposit.I was actually asking about the 10% deposit. I was reading that you can get away with only paying 5% deposit and the remaining 95% on settlement.
I set a figure between 4 and 5 percent, and – as I do when making an offer -I deliberately don’t make it a rounded thousand.
it was my lawyer’s idea – hehe – so that I would appear to be this sophisticated property investor who has arrived at her figure after performing some extremely professional and tricky calculations – really, to appear as someone harder to force up in price! (Put it this way, I needed all the help i could get, cause I sooo wasn’t a soph. prop. inv…
Three houses now on between 4-5 percent deposit and never been questioned once. Oh, no, I lie, the third one I forgot completely and wrote in a 10 percent deposit (but by then they already knew I was a soph.prop.inv. hehe!! -Also wasn’t paying interest at the time, and besides 10 percent was only $1900 – wa-hey!)
Lawyer said ‘ as long as the deposit is enough for RE agents to get their commission out, they don’t care.
Banks might though so you may have to end up putting 10 or 20 percent in the property anyway but i think the idea is to pay it at settlement thus minimising borrowing costs. So therefore your deposit is due when the contract goes unconditional (ten days after the offer in my cases, as I like ten days to do my due diligence) and then you pay the rest less what the bank gives you on settlement.
If I read you right, you’ll give them a 4-5% deposit when contracts are exchanged after doing your due dilligence, you may borrow the 80% from a lender and you may have the other 15% cash or invested ready to pay at settlement.
Is that a plausible senario
Interesting statement you make saying you present your offer THEN do you due diligence. How do you structure your special condidtions to give you an out if you DD doesn’t come up to scratch and you want out?
my loans with the bank of melbourne work on a 10% deposit. Personally I’m happy with that… I have a line of credit against my house that allows me to take action pretty quick if I spot a bargain, because I already know I have the cash up my sleeve. Plus, I wouldn’t want my LVR to be too high.
have you sat down with a broker to discuss your options? might be worthwhile.
>If I read you right, you’ll give them a 4-5% deposit when >contracts are exchanged after doing your due dilligence, you >may borrow the 80% from a lender and you may have the >other 15% cash or invested ready to pay at settlement.
>Is that a plausible senario
Hi there, the actual time-frame is 1) contracts are exchanged and signed for the negotiated price subject to due diligence
2) due diligence, for which I allow ten days. I did it five for my first property, and was stressing when I didn’t have the builder’s report back at 7pm the night before it went unconditional….I got it by 8pm, however i learned that it’s better to have twice that time!! 3) i decide if i want to pull out or go ahead, and contract goes unconditional on the 10th day, which is when the 4-5 percent deposit is due.
4) settlement where the other 95 percent is due. Either the banks will lend you the rest , or you have to put some cash or equity loan in, or get vendor finance
>Interesting statement you make saying you present your offer >THEN do you due diligence. How do you structure your >special condidtions to give you an out if you DD doesn’t come >up to scratch and you want out?
Under ‘conditions’ I have 1) subject to satisfactory LIM report (name in NZ for local council dossier info on land, i.e. claims, caveats, does it have mines? Is it earmarked for road widening? was there a building permit for that garage? that alteration? was there a permit for the free standing multi-fuel burner and is it code-compliant? (otherwise insurance won’t pay out if there’s fire cause by the illegal fireplace!! doh!! and you have to make it code-compliant after the fact, or rip it out!)
2) subject to satisfactory builder’s report (costs 300-400 bucks and you really know what you’re up for then!! Right down to age of hot water cylinder, and which taps are dripping, how many years roof will last…) especially especially important to me as I have been buying in another country – and haven’t seen the properties in person, apart from that the agent has sent me a bunch of pictures of every room inside and out. On that note once upon a time I looked in person at a zillion houses, and found one, had a builder’s report, and it came up a lemon. that’s when I realised i don’t need to look in person as I can’t tell anyway – and all that happened when I looked in person was got emotionally attached and ‘i really want this house!!!” and my negotiation skills went out the window. I feel a lot stronger negotiating on the phone at a distance – and then the RE agents don’t get to see that I look like bob marley’s white hippie cousin- cause I don’t LOOK like someone a RE agent would take seriously -but I sure can turn on Ms Serious and Professional Adding-this-to-her-portfolio Mature and Experience Investor Mogul voice. That’s just my little reasons as to why, and stuff.
3) subject to solicitor’s satisfaction with all terms and conditions (blah blah some legal thing that the lawyer puts in)
4) more clauses if there is an existing tenant (we want to get all the rental docs, etc etc etc evidence of bond lodgement, credit check,)
5) a clause if the land is leasehold, subject to solicitor viewing the land lease to his satisfaction
Never bought leasehold land yet, but have looked at it.
so I get many chances to pull out.
BTW the exact wording of the clauses is very important so don’t write your own, get your lawyer to do it.
I have heard of people doing due diligence before they sign the contract, but I can’t imagine them getting a very good deal then – the vendor knows you want it!! I haggle the price first, sign, then do the due diligence. “I prefer to buy something with an existing tenant cause then you know it’s liveable, even before the builder’s report”. That was me six months ago, but that rule has been tossed out since, as funnily enough the two I bought empty were more liveable than the one with the tenant (who left the day after settlement anyway -doh!!) it was a dump! but I knew that though (throught the BR) which is why i got it for 16. And it’s come up amaaazing after the reno.
One more thing is that I find it much easier to not get emotionally attached if I haven’t seen the property. ‘fall in love with the numbers, not the house’ Kiyosaki says, and that’s been working for me. Also if i had to physically find time to look, I just couldn’t have bought three this year, as I also have a full-time life.!
If the maintenance/fixing up costs are going to be high after you get your builder’s report you can then say ‘ill go unconditional on this if you drop the price 5K, as you can see from the builder’s report it’s gonna cost me ten to make it liveable’…..
Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t, but you get to decide if you want to buy that property at that price in that condition, and if you don’t you can pull out (all without any deposit being paid.
Can you please recommend to me a good lawyer to use for PI in NZ. Should I be using the services of an accountant etc. in NZ or AUST? Also are your loans / bank accounts situated in NZ or AUST? Thanks I’m just about to buy my first IP but need to find the right people to deal with.
Cheers
Christian
quote:
Hi all,
>If I read you right, you’ll give them a 4-5% deposit when >contracts are exchanged after doing your due dilligence, you >may borrow the 80% from a lender and you may have the >other 15% cash or invested ready to pay at settlement.
>Is that a plausible senario
Hi there, the actual time-frame is 1) contracts are exchanged and signed for the negotiated price subject to due diligence
2) due diligence, for which I allow ten days. I did it five for my first property, and was stressing when I didn’t have the builder’s report back at 7pm the night before it went unconditional….I got it by 8pm, however i learned that it’s better to have twice that time!! 3) i decide if i want to pull out or go ahead, and contract goes unconditional on the 10th day, which is when the 4-5 percent deposit is due.
4) settlement where the other 95 percent is due. Either the banks will lend you the rest , or you have to put some cash or equity loan in, or get vendor finance
>Interesting statement you make saying you present your offer >THEN do you due diligence. How do you structure your >special condidtions to give you an out if you DD doesn’t come >up to scratch and you want out?
Under ‘conditions’ I have 1) subject to satisfactory LIM report (name in NZ for local council dossier info on land, i.e. claims, caveats, does it have mines? Is it earmarked for road widening? was there a building permit for that garage? that alteration? was there a permit for the free standing multi-fuel burner and is it code-compliant? (otherwise insurance won’t pay out if there’s fire cause by the illegal fireplace!! doh!! and you have to make it code-compliant after the fact, or rip it out!)
2) subject to satisfactory builder’s report (costs 300-400 bucks and you really know what you’re up for then!! Right down to age of hot water cylinder, and which taps are dripping, how many years roof will last…) especially especially important to me as I have been buying in another country – and haven’t seen the properties in person, apart from that the agent has sent me a bunch of pictures of every room inside and out. On that note once upon a time I looked in person at a zillion houses, and found one, had a builder’s report, and it came up a lemon. that’s when I realised i don’t need to look in person as I can’t tell anyway – and all that happened when I looked in person was got emotionally attached and ‘i really want this house!!!” and my negotiation skills went out the window. I feel a lot stronger negotiating on the phone at a distance – and then the RE agents don’t get to see that I look like bob marley’s white hippie cousin- cause I don’t LOOK like someone a RE agent would take seriously -but I sure can turn on Ms Serious and Professional Adding-this-to-her-portfolio Mature and Experience Investor Mogul voice. That’s just my little reasons as to why, and stuff.
3) subject to solicitor’s satisfaction with all terms and conditions (blah blah some legal thing that the lawyer puts in)
4) more clauses if there is an existing tenant (we want to get all the rental docs, etc etc etc evidence of bond lodgement, credit check,)
5) a clause if the land is leasehold, subject to solicitor viewing the land lease to his satisfaction
Never bought leasehold land yet, but have looked at it.
so I get many chances to pull out.
BTW the exact wording of the clauses is very important so don’t write your own, get your lawyer to do it.
I have heard of people doing due diligence before they sign the contract, but I can’t imagine them getting a very good deal then – the vendor knows you want it!! I haggle the price first, sign, then do the due diligence. “I prefer to buy something with an existing tenant cause then you know it’s liveable, even before the builder’s report”. That was me six months ago, but that rule has been tossed out since, as funnily enough the two I bought empty were more liveable than the one with the tenant (who left the day after settlement anyway -doh!!) it was a dump! but I knew that though (throught the BR) which is why i got it for 16. And it’s come up amaaazing after the reno.
One more thing is that I find it much easier to not get emotionally attached if I haven’t seen the property. ‘fall in love with the numbers, not the house’ Kiyosaki says, and that’s been working for me. Also if i had to physically find time to look, I just couldn’t have bought three this year, as I also have a full-time life.!
If the maintenance/fixing up costs are going to be high after you get your builder’s report you can then say ‘ill go unconditional on this if you drop the price 5K, as you can see from the builder’s report it’s gonna cost me ten to make it liveable’…..
Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t, but you get to decide if you want to buy that property at that price in that condition, and if you don’t you can pull out (all without any deposit being paid.
Thanks for the “full disclosure” to my question. If we tried full DD before signing a conditional contract in Oz at the moment, we wouldn’t even get the paperwork out of the file before someone else had a contract on it I think I’ll go into business printing those little “Under Contract” sticker…I’ll be a rich man[]