Forum Replies Created
As a tradesman of 20 years,I have seen many apprentices come and go,and a fair percentage aren’t even worth the pay they receive.After one year of uni,I undertook four years of apprenticeship because I wanted to be a carpenter,not because I had to do something and an apprenticeship was an “easy” option.The bulk of apprentices I come across these days are there to fill in eight hours of the day (as are many tradesmen),not because they have an interest in a trade and want to learn.I am happy to teach apprentices who want to be carpenters,but have no time for those just filling in their day.I have a second year apprentice at the moment,and although not up to tradesman’s standard yet,he is brilliant,and will make a good tradesman when he is completed.We also have a first year who is just a waste of time.He is only there because he doesn’t like school,and his attitude shows…..he won’t be around much longer,and will end up on the dole.I also have a 38 year old friend who is a qaulified nurse with 20 years experience and a university degree,and he is looking for an apprenticeship.He will lose much flexibility inn his work,but when finished,will earn twice what he earns now.So a 4 year apprenticeship is really a small price to pay for the rewards at the end.
Hi Fullout,
I am no accountant,but I think you will find that if your turnover is more than $50,000 then you have to,but if it is less than 50,it is optional.If you don’t register ,however,you will not be able to claim back any GST paid on purchases.Tools
Turns out it is Asian Pacific,but I don’t know if they are related to your company,and I have never dealt with either.
Hi Geronimo,
There is a company here in Melbourne of similar name.I am not sure if it is Asia PAcific,or Asian Pacific.They seem to do a lot of office suite developments/marketing.I will be driving past one of them this afternoon,so I will check to see if it is the same name.Tools
Hi Purple,
It is hard work,but well worth doing it yourself.If you have some DIY nouse and patience,it isn’t that hard.Just don’t decide half way through that it is too hard,or say “that’s good enough”,b/c you will kick yourself.Put all your effort in to it.And go with Malachii’s thoughts….Bunnings is full of school boys and those that couldn’t make it in their trade,so I wouldn’t ask them for the time of day.Here is a copy of a post from last year,and you won’t get better advice than this!
boods99
Member [16 posts]
Posted 12/10/2003, 19:29:09
hey there, im a timber flooring guy so i will try to help.
if you have lifted carpet, vinyl etc,..the boards shoud be quite flat already.a drum sander will get the floor flat while you will have to go over the floor with a rotary sander with various grades of fine paper to get a very smooth finish. coating should be done only after applying a sealer ( this will stop the coating from soaking in too much to the timber and give you a “blotchy” look.) then two coats of polyurethne coating will bring the floor up nicely. This coating is solvent based so you will need a respirator mask. On the other hand you can use a water based coating but it is harder to get a good finish while costing you a lot more to buy.
feel free to emial me with any questions
Also, timber floors where never supposed to be extremly consistent in colour so just relax, enjoy the colour variations.boods99
Member [16 posts]
Posted 12/10/2003, 20:06:20
unfortunatly the person who painted your floor has made your life harder!!
PERSISTANCE First you get all the paint off with a drum sander which i imagine you have started to do. The paper you are using is way too fine to strip paint. you should use a 16 or 20 grit. this will really bite in and get the paint off. Then use a rotary sander ( a little difficult to use to start with but you should get the hang of it )start with 60 grit and keep working up to about 120 grit if that is the desired finish you want. after you rotary you whoud apply the sealer. this is done with a roller just like painting. ( remember the face mask …very important ) then you can apply you first coat of poly coating after a couple of hours or so ( the sealer dries very quickly )
this has to be left for about 15 hours. you then have to go over the floor with the rotary sander again a key in the surface ( so the next coat bonds to the first ) this time you use a screenbak disk of about 320 grit. Now you are ready for your final coat. It is applied just like the rest of them ( with a roller on a pole ) but you have to make sure you dont have any misses. 24 hours later …….you can start living on it!! Also, dont listen to everything that guys from bunnings tell you as they probably are just guessing themselves!!( however there is always an exception to the rule!!)
GOOD LUCK
reply if you have any more questions!
boods99
Member [16 posts]
Posted 12/10/2003, 22:01:40
enduser…you are very correct, however, the edger is probably one of the most difficult sanders to use and to somebody who has never used one before, i am almost certain more damage will be done than good. Use a normal everyday orbital sander with coarse paper to get to the edges, alternatively, you can hire a squar buff which is just an orbital on steroids…it defends upon the size of the job. Also, something i forgot to mention before- always vacuum the entire area before and after fine sanding.Regards,Tools
Hey Rags…..just a word of warning…it would be wise to check what all that broken internal and external wall sheeting is made of.From the look of the building from the pics,there is every chance it contains asbestos,and you should be very careful with how you handle it,and how you dispose of it.
Tools
we could short circuit the lamp so we would hear it go bang when we switched it on.
maybe the cord is long enough that we can take the lamp in to the switch room with us.
maybe we could remove the globe,move the lamp as close as possible to the switch room,stick a finger in the lamp and reach around to try each switch
ok,we break the glass on the globe in the lamp,making sure we don’t break the filament.We drape the curtains over the broken lamp,and go to the other room.We try a switch a a time,waiting for 10 minutes between each.If the other room catches fire,we know we have found the right switch!
where’s Chan when you need him……..
you ask someone else in the room to tell you when the light goes on/off
do the two rooms have a light each,and do these switches control them?
maybe the room light in the lamp room and the switch room are both on,so the switch that is still off is the lamp.
we can assume one controls the light in the room with the switches,so that narrows it down to 2.Maybe we are able to see the electricity meter,and if we turn one on at a time,we could see which one uses less power,and safely assume that one is the lamp……
Hi Yack,
No,I don’t think they are overpriced.In fact,my valuation came back $30,000 over what I paid for it.You have to remember also that there are 69 suites that were searching for a tenant all at once.Many have found tenants at the rate I spoke of,but some others must be struggling with their mortgages and are prepared to take a tenant at any cost,without realising they are contributing to lowering the value of the whole building.Why is it that when ever the Government says “more money for education”,teachers hear it as “pay rise”?What about the kids?I have worked in many schools over the years,and I think that teachers are already overpayed for what they do.If you want a joke of a job,become a “Physical Education” teacher in a primary school.
Hi Debenvy……ther ehas been some discussion on AC in th epast.Here is a link.
Tools
https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6341&SearchTerms=asbestos
Hi MH,
thanks for you reply…..but what if it wasn’t split,and had been used for two or more deductible investment purposes?
Tools
