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    Thanks Martine,

    I complained to the estate agent resolution service at consumer affairs,but it was a waste of time.They did speak with the agent concerned,but it seems he was able to do what he did because of the small print on the sale authority.The authority was for 10 weeks,and you would expect (at least I did) that at the end of 10 weeks,the contract was finished,unless another was signed.However,the small print on the back says “If the property is not sold during the authority period,unless the vendor advises the agent in writing to the contrary,the vendor appoints the agent to sell the property”.I don’t understand what the difference is.The sale authority is aa REIV non member form,but I don’t know if this clause is standard.I only have a faxed copy,and the print for this paragraph looks different to me.I don’t even know if this was a part of what I signed,as I am usually quite dilligent before signing anything.Maybe I should check it with the REIV,although as he is not a member,there isn’t much they can do.But anyway,let this serve as a warning to others who may switch agents after an authority has run out,to make sure you cancel the authority in writing!

    Tools

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    Hi Ambo,

    When you say the agent has “Assured” you there is council approval for extensions,haven’t they showed you the planning and/or building approvals?I would think they would be an important part of the marketing campaign.You don’t want to go in to a deal on the basis of extending,and find out it is not possible.

    Tools

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    Oh dear….sounds like advertising…….

    Profile photo of ToolsTools
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    Hi Calvin,

    I wasn’t having a stab at anything you said,just throwing in my two cents worth.I am happy to help you or anyone else with anything I can,all you need to do is ask!

    Tools

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    Oh dear….where to start….

    whether to fix skirting prior to tiling or not is a matter of opinion.With 20 years of experience in building,I would suggest you fix the skirtings before you tile.If you go the other way,you will find that you will have gaps between the tile and skirt all around the room.Even “professional”tilers don’t manage to get all the tiles perfectly flat,and all it takes is for a few tiles to be slightly out of line,and you won’t be able to get the skirt to sit hard down to the tiles.If you are worried about uneven cuts in tiles layed against the skirt,clamp a stop on to your tile cutter,and if you push the tiles against this,all cuts will be the same.It isn’t that hard really.You shouldn’t need to cut tiles with an electric cutter,unless they are porcelain or marble,and then you would need quite an expensive tool to perform the cut satisfactorily.The DTA cutter you mentioned will adequately cut most tiles you would use.You may fin that you will need a 100 mm grinder with a diamond blade to cut out notches or things like around architraves and door jambs.

    Skirting on top of tiles will not disguise crooked walls.If the walls are out,they are out!Just make sure to measure and cut each tile individually if they are out.

    Chalking a line from corner to corner will give you the centre of the room (if your room is square/rectangular)but it won’t necessarily give you a 45 degree line unless your room is perfectly square.Following this with your tiles will mean you will have odd shaped cuts along each wall.DIY books usually say to start from the middle of a room and work your way out.However,professional tilers will rarely work this way.You need to lay the tiles out to work out what cuts you will have against walls,cupboards,in door ways etc.You don’t want to end up with small cuts to finish with.If you are continuing the tiles through to other rooms,you also need to consider the cuts you will have in those rooms as well.If you are running the tiles diagonally,it is highly unlikely that you will end up with even cuts in the second and subsequent rooms.

    As far as painting skirting goes,to achieve a solid colour you need two coats,regardless of whether you are using acrylic or enamel paint.You may find it easier to put the first coat on before fixing them to the wall,but remember you will need to fill nail holes,undercoat and first coat before you can put a coat over the whole lot in the one hit.You can’t satisfactorily touch up just the nail holes.You will probably find that you will also run some no more gaps at the skirt/wall junction….anothe reason to paint afterwards.If you insist on using only one coat,I would add a paint conditioner such as Floetrol…you will be glad you did.

    Profile photo of ToolsTools
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    @tools
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    Ali G,
    yes.of course it is because their services are in demand,but if they can’t find time to see me for 3 weeks,how long is it going to take them to do the work for me?There are plenty of other accountants that come highly recommended and are extremely knowledegable on IPs,so that is where I am taking my business.But,each to their own.
    Tools

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    Hi Tony.

    I agree,it should be a last resort,and I have tried to tell him it is a pretty drastic step to take.I hope his advice has been right.I know his tax bill alone was $26000,plus other debts.What is the ITSA?

    Tools

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    Looking for a new accountant for tax return/GST return etc….rang Gatherum-Goss as many people on here see him as some sort of god…rang last Wednesday at midday and was told someone would have to ring me back to make an appointment…no-one rang so today (some 5 days later) I rang again…same story,someone will have to ring you back..thi stime they did,but was told Dale doesn’t do that sort of work himself anymore..no drama,may I make an appointment to see someone else in the company please????…sure..you can come in 3 weeks time.I don’t think so Tim!
    Result:made an appointment with another accountant.

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    Wayne,

    I am not sure what you mean by “small wall tops”

    The window section you are referring to is called a window nosing,and it attatches on to the window sill.It is available off the shelf in a variety of timbers,or you could run it quite easily with a router.If you are in Melbourne,you will get it from a number of places:

    -O’Shea and Benett in Oakleigh stock it in pine and vic ash/tas oak,in various widths up to 225mm.

    -Lewis’s in Ormond stock it in various timbers,and if you really want it off the shelf in Jarrah,they will be the best bet

    -Provans in clifton hill stock it also but there stock may be limited to just pine (clear and finger jointed)

    Pine is a suitable option if you are just going to paint it.I think it would also be available in MDF for a paint finish.

    The problem you will have if you buy it off the shelf is that the two ends will have square cuts,and not have the bullnose returned.you could do this with a sharp plane and sandpaper,or a belt sander if you don’t have a router,but it may be easier to just borrow a router or have someone run it all for you.

    As for Bunnings,I’d give them a miss unless you need a plastic bucket or a few nails.They aren’t cheap,their staff generally don’t know what they are talking about,and their customer service is poor.Convenience because of their store saturation is about all they have going for them.

    Tools

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    Hi all,

    i went to the seminar two years ago,and it was the most exciting weekend I have had for many many years.I consider myself to be quite conservative and reserved,but when I decided to go (I had wanted to go the previous year when it was in Melbourne),I thought I had to make it all worthwhile.On top of the ticket,I also had the cost of airfares and accomodation.I flew up and went by myself,not really knowing what to expect.They are four really long days…sat and sun were more than 12 hours each,with only one break.I was just glued to the information he was presenting.At first I was concerned abouit all the jumping around and hugging strangers etc…I was WAY
    out of my comfort zone,but thoroughly enjoyed the weekend,and would do it all again.When I do go again,I will go by myself again.I learned alot about myself that weekend and would recommend it to anyone.I laughed alot,cried alot,hugged people I have never seen before (including many guys,that’s out of my comfort zone!),and challenged myself in many ways.Friday night was incredible…we had been there for probably 7 hours,and hundreds of us went out and did a fire walk…..walked bare foot along a 6 metre bed of hot coals…tell me that doesn’t teach you about mind over matter!

    When he comes back next year,GO FOR IT !

    Tools

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    Qwerty,
    If I was doing a job for you and you tried to talk down to me like that,I would be packing up my tools and going.Most tradesmen take pride in their work and aren’t going to leave a poor job.Do you tell your doctor or accountant or baker the same thing??????

    Profile photo of ToolsTools
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    Rang 2 commercial property managers ( not RE agents) and was quoted 4% and 5%,considerably cheaper than the 7.5 I now pay.
    Tools

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    Seano,

    Yes, the builder must ask for,(and you canno tunreasonably deny) an extension of time for it to be granted.If the contract was for 140 days,and they are nearly finished at 9 months,it doesn’t sound like they are much over time.As Derek said,the contract is in working days,and that is for 5 days per week,less public holidays,RDOs,rain days (which an extension of time claim must be put in for) etc.Tell me the contract start date,and I will look at the completion date for you from the MBA calendar.What state are you in?

    Tools

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    Hmmmmmmmm…seems to be a common theme……I wanna go to the Melbourne Llaunch please!

    Tools

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    Hi Seano,

    Have you taken in to account any extensions of time that have been or could be claimed by the builder?The builder can claim an extension of time for any variations made to the contract by you,and for anything beyond the builder’s control that holds the project up.

    Tools

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    I had some kerb and channel done a few weeks ago and all the quotes were around $90 lineal per metre.For asphalt we pay around $100 per square metre for a hot mix,not a spray seal.This would only be light duty though,say for a driveway.A public road would cost significantly more because of the preperation underneath required.

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    Hi guys,thanks for your replies.I got a copy of the lease today which is a standard commercial lease from REIV.It looks like the tenant pays for just about everything……..just the way I like it!
    Tools

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    There is no such thing as a developer’s licence in Victoria.Anyone can be a developer without any qualifications or licencing.If,however,you wanted to undertake some building works without engaging a builder,you would need to be a registered builder.Subdivision of land does not require a licence of any sort,but you would have to use licenced surveyors etc to do it for you.
    Tools

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    Hi kay,
    Yes,there is a long service scheme in the industry.It is not compulsory,but is available to all,and is portable from one employer to the next.It is also available to people such as myself who are self employed.The nature of work in the industry can be contract,full time employee or casual.We also have superannuation and redundancy schemes that are portable as well.
    Tools

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    Hi Redwing.You are right about labourers taking up the positions of tradesmen,but that is not restricted to brickies…..it also applies to painters,plasterers,carpenters etc.But at the end of the day they aren’t tradesmen,they are just working as tradesmen.

    Bbruhm,as for there being no money in trades,I dispute that.It all boils down to application.I have always been on a good wicket because I am good at what I do.If I wanted to roll along as an employee with no drive,then I would agree with you,but I,along with most I employ on my site are dedicated and skillfull,and are rewarded as such.I remember even as an apprentice that I was making more money than mates who were teachers,accountants and in IT,and we now we are much of a muchness.But give me the outdoors over desk work any day
    Tools

Viewing 20 posts - 261 through 280 (of 322 total)