Jojo i have to admit i did have some silver and gold bullion ( parent’s made me get them 0.o ) …i have to say it’s one of my better performing investment ! close to 35% return when i sold it in Dec 2010 …but it doesn’t have regular income and it’s long term.
1. What uses does this place have? can it be a food out-let? a car yard? a repair shop? a office? etc… this is probably the MOST important question as different use and industry have different “expected return”
2. How does the bank look at this property? is finance easy? …if finance is hard the price should be low or the return should be much greater!
3. What else is around this property? from experience the shops around the property tends to tell you what sort of “business” to expect and what sort of clients the business may get.
4. Strata cost and the rules/law ( Strata shops…ie village, arcade, shop front) – Some Strata have a requirement that the new “business” owner can not take over a shop UNLESS they have experience in that field…Or they may limit how many “bakery” can be in this one area etc…
5. What sort of business would like this property, a cash flow business??? ie food outlet, a risky business?? ie Video store…
6. If the place is sold with a current tenant in place- make sure you check when the agreement ends and what sort of agreement it is ( 5:5? or 5:7?? etc…) and lastly how long have this business been running and how is the business in general.
end of the day the commercial property success runs purely on the success of the existing or “potential” business… commercial property has high vacancy period…and when your paying 9% + in interest and other cost ( Strata , insurance, land tax) it can be quite hefty.
Note: A discretionary trust is far more superior then a unit trust in regards to tax minimisationand capital gain tax- as it provides better control and flexibility..
End of the day you can really make a company ABC pty ltd..and it’s owned by a trust ABC….
Our firm dealt with a case where the couple had a company that was owned by other company..and that 2nd company was owned by a trust who it self was a beneficiary of a different trust 0.o
Naremburn123 – If your solo purpose is to renovated and sell within a short period of time …if that time frame is less then 12 month; financially speaking depending on which tax bracket your on; a trust structure can be more beneficially because of the 50% reduction in CGT ( after 12month)
Also company is a lot more complex and slightly expensive to run annually. Note- your details is available to the public as it’s regulated by ASIC. A trust does not have this problem…it’s private.
But at the end of the day you will still need to speak to your accountant; and they will be able to advise you on a personal level.
what you say is true…and i have taken that in consideration..but on a long term perspective-
1. Your buying at a higher price
2. Depreciation will eventually equalizes
I still stick to my last statement “End of the day depreciation can be “Created” by doing renovations etc if required…also if your on a average-just above average income…having a high depreciatable property for the 1st 1-3 years is pointless – just my 2 cents “
There are billions of ways to invest and of course every strategy has it’s advantages and disadvantages…but i have seen so many FHO buyers even some seasonal investors who regretted that “off the plan purchase” .
It’s not my style to see the “money” at the end of the tax year…i rather have access to the money now and some later- “Depreciation does not feed the family- especially when its tough”
Was it cross? or high worth client ..service loan without rent??
By the way, are you with NAB for your lender…i currently hold a block of 4×2 in Rockdale and it was with NAB…but they ( 14 month ago) changed their condition to max out at 3 unless i cross….SIGH
End of the day depreciation can be “Created” by doing renovations etc if required…also if your on a average-just above average income…having a high depreciatable property for the 1st 1-3 years is pointless – just my 2 cents
For me most, if not 95% of new property are over priced and targeted for “owners” and not for investors.
I would say dont risk it…unless the price is extremely good, you have your finance in place and you choose to go with a different builder.Why?
1. Financing a half finished home is a headace and a pain! you be limited with lenders choice, rates arn’t as good as you would want it…terms aren’t any better
2. You must question WHY didn;t this guy finish the job? is there something fundamentally wrong? this is the same question the bank will ask will accessing your application.
3. You should be able to get a good price – lack of competition, because to be honest not a lot of buyers would consider this unless they are a builder themselves and have the money.
Half finished home and owners builders = a curse in term of finance!
1. The streamline bank will only take the valuation of the land…the “half built home is worthless” as it’s consider bricks and cement only and if you struggle with the repayments the banks can’t sell bricks and cement
2. if you go with private banks that can take inconsideration the “half built home” the rate is 10%+
3. If you choose owners builders -LVR will be under 65%
A catch 22…this 300k is all you have, so if you invest you risk losing some of this because of bad investment, no tenants, dmg to the property etc…but if you don’t invest you be stuck in one place….so you really need to sit down and work out where your “buffer” is…ie how much do you need to “comfortable” live off IF the investment belly flops.
If you decide to invest into the property market, just remember most high rental property have low growth…but for your purpose if your after rental return only then it may be worth while ( 10%+)
1. Rural area- Min 14% return… but can have a long vacancy rate and for mining town chances that if the mining company leaves the area your investment will be worthless..
2. Unique accommodation- student, service apartment – These are usually located in good locations, but be careful of high strata and high management fee….average return of 9-12%
If you do decide to buy, i would suggest you take out a small loan with the bank ( tax benefit and some protection) ; as Richard mentioned your insurance payment can be considered as income..also if you go for an LVR of 30% and with rental income flowing through the bank will have no problem with this loan…even if your unemployed.
End of the day, don’t go overboard…keep a nice healthy safe gap.
In general, IP first then PPOR…reason?
1. Say you rent a place to live for $300 a week and you rent out your place for $300 a week…you will still be better off because of the tax deduction it has on your income and another deductions.
2. Increase borrowing capacity compared to PPOR.
Jack- yesterday i had dinner with some of the excec from St George Bank – if you have a good long history in this field of work ( 5 years +) a loan can be considered for self employed after 1 full year of trading
tylon020 – one point i must note if you have an redraw for the IP is that …some accountants can be fussy about you placing extra surplus cash into your IP redraw as the SOLO purpose of this redraw should only be for the IP…ie rent etc…
If you start transferring your salary and another incomes into the redraw it can become messy for the accountant.
Offset on the other hand is different. it does not have a set clause for the use.
So it be a good idea to pop an email to your accountant
tylon020 – ill make this short, simple and in layman terms:) .
1. Redraw and offset – No real difference in how it works some technical differences but not one that you should worry about…but redraw has less flexibility in that it’s harder to access and shift the money.
2. From your post, i personally would recommended a loan with an offset account because it sounds like your more comfortable with this and it does have a lot more advantage.
3. You would want to reduce your debt ASAP for your PPOR and non”taxable debt” – ie personal and car loan…for IP the best structure is too- have an offset account, pay IO …any “surplus” funds goes directly into the offset. Later down the track if you want to purchase another IP or your PPOR you can use this “surplus” fund in your offset as an deposit.
4. There are 30+ loan structure and advice that i can give you. MY advice- KEEP IT SIMPLE , efficient and one that YOU understand.
If this is a brand new listing and the agent havn;t had any “serious” buyers…then it be hard to pull the price down…
On the another hand, if this property been listed for 40+ days i find it’s soooooo much easier to bargain and the agent tend to be more “understanding ”
I went to an open house where it was advertised as “$900,000+”
I had a sneak peek on the piece of paper the agent was writing on…he had offers ranging from 620-830k ….ahhah
It was sold for $863k 2 weeks later.
I say offer what would make you “happy” no point buying something and feeling ripped off! dont rush! there are PLENTY of properties out there!
Umm im in the same boat as Ryan – only agree to half.
i would never buy brand new ..there are better ways to obtain the tax benefit then buying brand new…i rather create growth and tax benefit then “buying it”
Buy houses as a first choice for better capital growth – Personal choice, not everyone can afford to buy a house in a “established location”.. .some prefer rental yield so they can “afford” to buy their next IP faster. No point having $200,000 equity in your home if you can’t access it simply because you can’t afford to draw this equity out.
Our firm do a lot block of units under one title around Australia on a regular basis, …probably because i have a lot of Asian clients and this seems to be their fort’e.
If they all have internal laundry and in a metro area – NO problem we can do up to 12 under one title- residential rate- up to 7 lenders to choose from ( a Few you have never heard off ) – you can even fix the rate at 7.6% for 3 years. and LVR at 80%.
If it’s shared laundry OR it’s not in a metro area- you be limited to 2 lenders only…and even though they declare it as residential the rate is around 8.5% LVR must be under 65% – which is still better then going as an commercial loan.
If your block is located in Western Sydney Cabramatta , Fairfield and Liverpool – then we have access to a local Credit union that will look after this as well.
Marty in regards to Widebay – They still do this up to Max 4. Any-deal 4+ they would want to cross securities other residential property on top- unless the client can service the loan without the new rental.
P.s What ever you choose, don’t go commercial …it’s impossible to swap later on (comm-> res)— start off as residential.