No, I’m only joking. If cash-flow is an issue then the variation can be very handy. I haven’t personally lodged a variation form before but my understanding is that it’s quite easy to do yourself (so perhaps suss it out before going to the accountant).
Cheers
Jamie
Jamie im guessing your self-employed…unfortunately not available to us ppl due to irregular income .
Mick- if your wife had the IP from her grandfather’s Will- then from what i understand ( hopefully someone can confirm or correct)
-> CGT is discounted and calculated based on the “Base cost- from the time of deceased acquired” – meaning home was worth $500,000 at time of deceased acquired – 12 month later home is worth $550,000 —- you pay the $50,000 difference in CGT – and it’s discounted at 50% as well since you held it for 12month +
Wtih 10k deposit + low income and no real asset + im guessing your under 35??? to be honest seeing a Financial planner will just be a wate of your time and money- not much to work with…
1. You could borrow with 5% Deposit these days- it’s very common; most of the major banks would do it
2. 10k is not a lot, but it’s a start….
3. Depending which state your in; you could purchase a place with 11k deposit; with the use of the FHOG…ie $350k purchase- 5% = ~18k ( no stamp duty + 7k for FHOG) = around 11k to invest.— but live in for the min requirement as per FHOG then rent out if you desire OR share the place.
4. If you want a bit more buffer- place money into a high interest internet account OR buy bank shares ( 5.5-6.5% Yield + capital growth)
I agree with Rahrahprincess – Depreciation and tax benefit should not be the reason to purchase a place ( tax rules changes…they are now talking about reducing the Negative gearing benefits etc – most likely not going to happen but you never know) –
Depreciation and tax benefit are bonus not the drivers of a purchase- because they can be “created” via renovations etc…
I think it may be an idea to sell a property. The tax savings overall may be worth the extra costs incurred with the CGT and stamp duty on repurchasing a new investment property. There are also significant asset protection advantages available if you can set it up correctly.
I am a solicitor based in Sydney CBD. If you buy me lunch one day I will go through it all with you.
Mick – i suggest you take on Terry’s lunch offer… Just shout him some cheap lunch like Kids Happy meal ( no upgrade) ahahha kidding!!
A lunch for expert advice from Terry – Yes please!
$40k at 21 is not something to look down on- it’s more savings then a lot of ppl i know who’s twice your age!
With 40k you could potential invest into 2 properties ( def 1 ) as long as you can service the debt/loan with your income+ Rent – However nice and slow wins the race…
Yes Nathan is an exception to a lot of ppl! a smart investor i have to say.
To answer your question- it’s a simple game of balancing…you dont want to sacrifice your youth and lifestyle just to make a few quick buck- because at the end of the day you make money to “enjoy a better quality of life”.
Make your first investment- see how you go…then move decide from there.
Call/email first – Get everything ready ie all the paper works + questions..and it can all be done within 1 meeting ( when done correctly at the phone stage)
Most of the mortgage stuff can be done Via email/Phone or Skype etc…
It like you applying for your mortgage with the above company – Quick direct OR even ING – all done online/phone and some of them are based OVERSEAS as well
The main difference is rather then a whole CALL center looking at your loan, a broker can provide a more personalized approach
If you prefer a Face to Face broker, there are a few good ones on this forum as well.
I have been to see a few property investment type people to maybe assist me . All providing differring levels of help. As I don't have a lot of time free to chase up property deals on the eastern seaboard . A couple of the groups I have spoken to have provided sample ideas or scenarios . Which include forever using equity to purchase more and more property over the coming years , I am 52 yrs old and already have 3 properties here in WA .only one is under mortgage still 114000 owing .The idea they have is to never own anymore properties , and basically build a gravy train I call it ,of equity and at the end of it all ,just keep scooping money off the top of the equity .
What some others had suggested were to have enough property to support having loans out against them and live off the loans .
And another is the what I would call the mum and dad way of having enough property so at the end of it all can use one or two of the properties sold to pay out the remainder and so in retirement not having any kind of debt to juggle with markets in order to have a good income ,but which would still allow for the odd vacant tenancy occasionally .Which is the way my parents have done it ,less stress too .
Any thoughts appreciated please . I have some decisions to make and also will speak to my accountant on some of these above . ideas
You should speak to an Financial planner.
As they will teach you how to maxmise your Super’s benefit ( especially given your age); Their are insurance Bonds that you can take out as part of your super- it pays constant Yield – Franked at 30% + no capital gain tax after 9 years.
I say since you dont want to access equity to invest in the property market ( which i understand) – your best bet is to speak to a Financial planner.
i wont say yes or no to that question, as im a mortgage broker and the answer would most likely be basis anyway
But it comes down to our personal choice and trust in the broker- as you will be giving a lot of personal details to this person/firm- like you would to any bank staff.
Think of us as an accountant ( who’s free) , we help you structure your loan to YOUR benefit.
1. We advise
2. We do some of the check for the loan
3. We talk and negotiate with the lender on your behalf
3. Submit loan
4. We can organize and dispute the Valuation on your behalf.
5 Follow through with the conveyancer and legal work
6. Personalized approach.
7. We have access to Managers and products within the bank that the general public may not have access to.
8. + anther services ..depends on the Broker and what are quantification he/she has.
I know a lot of friends who just go direct to the bank; but when they have a problem, the first and last person they now speak to is me.
As i said, give Jamie a call and see what happens from there; you got nothing to lose beside a $0.25 call charge
I think the idea is to limit the number of people to have multiple properties. I guess is all about supply and demand, if the government include a tax levy onto property investor this may deter them from buying more and therefore less demand on the short supply of property.
In saying this, i think this only applies to property that has establish infrastructure and areas that are undersupply closer to the major capital cities. The effect is not all investors buy near the CBD. So, if they put in this levy this will affect new growth to those areas require new investments.
I went to industry meeting/forum on Wednesday about this topic. I can tell you now, all the banks are pushing to abolish OR decrease the function of -VE ; There were no ATO representatives at the forum but im sure they were sitting at the back listing and taking notes.
ANZ talks about how it can improve housing affordability etc…<moderator: delete language> yes it may improve housing affordability …but ANZ being a commercial business has another agenda and that is to improve it's bottom line borrowing rate and profit.
This is how -VE affects the banks: 1. Higher chance of defaulting on loans…as a lot of investors are highly -ve geared = mkaing a lost every day = high risk 2. investors with -Ve property have high borrowing cap ie 90-95%LVR's and also it's mostly IO loans… 3. When the bank go overseas to borrow money the funder will look at the bank's lending book….if they have a lot of investors on their book their debt to "equity/title deed" ratio is much lower..especially when most of the loans are IO = Higher wholesale interest rate
End of the day, the more owners occupier loans the banks get the better- No monthly lost, most are 80% LVR, and always pay off quicker, on time and condition of home/asset is much better = better selling potential.
I personally think -VE will never be abolish , but instead it will be "diminished" ie A cap amount or will have a barrier on what can be claimed. Just look back when Paul Keating was PM and the -Ve was abolished….it was bought back a few years later….
im looking to buy house for around 400000k means i will need to have 20% which is 80k to avoid lmi (will be using as ip after getting fhog) i have been looking for home loan that is -interest only -offset account -low interest, low or no fees
using infochoice home loan comparison website the best deal is listed was Equity saver premium interest only home loan (Has anyone had any experience with them) Even though they have exit fees when you transfer loan before the 5 years period. but why would you if the cost of servicing the loan you be at least 20k off than any other lender on infochoice.
offset facilities have maximum amount you can put in there? how long does it take to get pre approval from the lenders when you submit your application. also i will be seeking a mortgage broker for advice just to make sure
thanks anh
I would be very careful when going with a small and unknown ONLINE mortgage manager ( which is what Quick direct is ) they borrow the funds from a “bigger bank” and repackaged it back to the public; they tend to increase their rate on a case by case basis… meaning you could be on a 6.59% now…but in 6 month time it could go to 6.79% for no reason- as they source their funding in batch…
Another point to note:
1. High DEF ( exit) fee…this tells me they do use the “increase” slowly” method to make their margin.
2. LVR limitations
To get a more personal understanding, email jamie and he will be able to work out which product or lender may suit you…end of the day maybe Quick direct does suit you if your happy with the “unknown/gable” .
It depends which date and day you took out your credit card; it’s really stupid i know.
In basic terms it’s really interest free for 6 weeks only ( 42days) ….say you took out your credit card on a Monday- they count 6 Mondays from that day onward to charge you.
However if you took this credit card out on a Friday- you got the 6 Fridays + the extra weekends – hence the “UP to” 45 days interest free.
The above work out is for most GE credit card…some banks work differently – but you can give your credit card provider a call and ask how your one is worked out and when it’s due.
I try to pay on the 15th of the month every month- just to be safe + a habit if i know it’s always due on a set date.