I would say look at the location.
I seen a 120 squ meter Terrance in Newton (sydney) rent for the SAME amount as the property next door which was only 72 squ meters…The area had no demand for large spaces ( all uni students + single working professional).
No point building a average, if it’s not the average for that area.
Con:
1. Damage to the home is likely
2. Not a lot of agent will take this up, you will have to self-manage
3. Tenants issues – Theft, dirty, don’t get along, noise
4. Insurance won’t insure
5. Can not declare to the bank in term of serviceability/ affordability
6. There have been a decreases in the number of student migrating to Aus in the past 2 years – high currency exchange and change in citizen/resident laws ( demand still there, but rent gone from $200 per room to $150…)
7. Short term rental – high vacancy during x-mas.
I guess it all depends on HOW many students we are talking about here??? if it’s only 1-2 boarding in a 3 bedroom house then won’t be too much of an issue and the insurance will happily take it up as well.
roadhog260 – The previous 2 posters have answered your quetion about equity release; regarding the NZ property; you will nee to speak to your bank about that…as not all bank will allow a equity release for o/s purchase- I know a lot of Australian bank will; not 100% sure about NZ banks…
shoooshoo- Cross is not the end of the world, i personally crossed my 2nd IP purchase…but later down the track i un-crossed it 3 years later . Rule of thumb DO NOT CROSS if you “dont need too”, 90% of deals don’t require a cross at all, no matter what the banks tell you….the another 10 % a cross may be required for the finance/deal to go through….so the question you must ask yourself or your broker “How can i place this deal without crossing” .
Typical situations where a cross may be required:
1. Commercial property
2. Your current bank will not allow a equity release ( to many release in the last 12 month , LVR conditions, security address)
3. Valuation – Value could not be determined ( X-crossing not alwasy required here)
Both options most likely would not pay good capital gain (compared to the average capital city’s increase)…finding a low price property that gives good yield + Capital gain ( without any work) is like winning lotto in the property investing game,
You can “hope” for growth…but yea….
My personal theory is; Capital gain comes in two form
1. can be created ( renovations, developmental, sub , granny etc…) so if you want capital growth buy land/house where you can easily make changes..
2. Location – Gentrification of the area, transport, work hub etc…
End of the day you need to have a SET strategy; don’t just go and buy because you can afford too…..
1. Postcode of property?> since you mentioned it’s regional , then 95% LVR is most likely NOT possible- but can confirm once you give postcode.
2. Any another income? Husband? on $1,700 fortnightly you won’t have much left to service a loan — living expense for 2 adults + 1 kid? , the current IP etc…
An educated guess would say, the broker you spoken to is correct. You def can’t service a loan ( you might be able to service a much smaller loan) without an increase in income, LVR will be based on location and security type.
Also from a investors point of view, this purchase is not really +ve ! purchase for $500k to get 23k PA back is around 5% Gross Yield or less???? and given it’s REGIONAL QLD it should be more like 12-15%…..
Unless im missing something…
Hi Dan welcome to the forum and congrate on your great headstart, your in a great position!
Firstly lets start with the basic:
There are 2 important part when applying for a loan; one is the serviceability ( meaning how much can you afford per month to service a loan, based on IF the interest did go up by 2%– serviceability calculation based on current rate + 2%). The 2nd is the deposit- ie loan ratio (LVR) …when both of these foundation meets half way you got yourself a loan
Your issue is not deposit, but more serviceability.
1, LMI is not going to help in serviceability, it helps with ppl who lack deposits
2. Releasing equity from your IP wont make a difference in improving how much you can borrow – as an amount you “release” is borrowed. – however it will help you keep your 35k savings for another uses ( improvements etc).
I done a basic calculation, i presumed no credit card, no HECS debt, no debt what so ever ….your max borrowing capacity( serviceability) is
$160,000- $170,000 PPOR purchase—HOWEVER if the next purchase is for a investment getting rent of $300pw– then your borrowing capacity goes up to $240,000- $260,000.
1- speak to real estate agent and shop around for different management fee
2. Theres not much you need- ID….it’s self explanatory once you see the agent.
3. ONe site agent or not doesnt matter, as long as they are good at what they do.
Mate a lot of questions that you should direct to your accountant, since your new to this as well- i would avoid DIY trust it can cost you thousands if set up incorrectly….
About the depreciation not all trust allows you to claim the depreciation personally, and im pretty sure Family trust is one of them that doesn’t allow you to do that.
Regarding pre-approval not all banks will allow trust purchase + some will charge you more in fees etc…
1. it can ONLY be for your PPOR- not investment – so you MUST make up your mind on this before investing
2. 17% interest for the fist $5,000 would beat placing the full 10k into a online saver—not sure what your question is tho.
3. There is a 4 years time lock on this account- meaning you can only take the funds out after the 4th year…BUT say you decide to buy on the 2nd year- that’s fine but the gov will not release the funds to you till the 4th year ( so it be sitting in the bank account for 2 years) *** this point was a new addition by the GOV, updated as of 15th of July 2011***
4. If after the 4th year your free to buy, but not required to do it straight away…it has a max time limit of 15 years- after the 15th year it will default to your super
5. Should you decide to buy a INV instead of PPOR- the funds till default to your super.
Read more on the Gov website- some details has been updated recently so read full terms and conditions.
P.s Im not a advocate for the first home savers account, just a mere suggestion that it’s available; i wouldn’t take it up if you want a INV OR your planing on going overseas for work or deciding to buy sooner then the 4 years gap.
Just to let you know when Terry means by Non-bank is “mortgage mangers lenders” – where they borrow from the bank and lend back to you.
Some may think ING, Suncorp etc are consider as non-bank—but that’s not true they are a still a bank, tier 2 lenders….they get their funds from deposit and another source and lend back to the public.
IN Aus the banks are :
There are the 4 big banks ( Tier 1 lenders) + then you have the small banks like ING, Suncorp etc.. ( Tier 2 lenders).+ Building societies also a Tier 2 lender.
Then of course you have the Non-banks ( Mortgage manager, do not have a direct deposit etc….)
etc… Now remember you can only claim the interest part back for Investment loans only; so how can you declare and separate which part of the
$1,600 is for the PPOR or IP???
Yes you may say, pro-rated it ..so 1/4 is IP —- $1,600 x 1/4- NOT THAT SIMPLE.
1. over time, you may deicide to pay extra into the account- so how can you decide then the % of ownership? it will get very complex
2. Your accountant is not gonna like it….ATO is not gonna like it- to much guess work, and complex.
You got nothing to be embarrassed about; small business is a tough business especially given the current market.
I had past small business who has been in a similar situation, from what i observe:
1. You can try to work it out with the bank- but 8/10 the bank will say no to extra funding or a higher overdraft – your already in debt…if they release more it be harder for them to chase up and recover.
2. Re-finance is only a option IF you have a clear exit strategy and Business plan with financial supported by your tax accountant – If a bank can see your in toruble, there is no way they would let you refinance to them just to make a few quick buck.
Possible Solutions that i have helped some client with:
1. If cash flow is a problem- consider a Business angel- where a investor will give you a lump sum for a % ownership of the company + repayment
2. Speak to current bank and work it out- seem to work most of the time, come armed with solid exit strategy and Business plan with financial supported by your tax accountant; dont say ” i think this will happen…. IF we do this this will happen etc…it should be like this.”
3. Defer Tax for the 3-6 month, speak to accountant and ATO about this…but possible to defer the tax for a period of time so you have better cash flow then pay back with interest.
PPOR
Value: $500,000
Original Loan (Loan A): $300,000 – secured by PPOR
Offset account link to Loan A
LOC (Loan : $100,0000 (assuming 80%) – secured by PPOR
IP (deposit is paid from Loan B account)
Value: $500,000
Investment Loan (Loan C): $400,000 – secured by IP
What you have done here is correct and fine- just keep this way of investing the same for Loan C.
So really EVERYTIME you want to invest into a new property; create a WHOLE new LOC /loan – like what you did in the above example.
Most home loans allows up to 5 splits.
auhealth wrote:
My question is, if I apply a topup ($100,000) for the Original Loan (Loan A) and then use the topup money that is available in Loan A now as deposit for new IP. Isn’t this money also tax deductible?
If it’s a “TOP UP” on your original loan A (PPOR) – then you would have contaminated the loan- as part of the funds is personal and part ( 100,000) is now investment also.
Remeber ATO only looks at the purchase of the fund, not what it’s secured by.
1. Online saver- 6.5-6.3% — Ubank, Rabo, Citibank, Virgin, ING, Hunter…—Easy to access money if required for emergency, good interest… flexible
2. First home owners savers accountant- 17% interest paid by the Gov for the first $5,000 invested- can ONLY be used to buy your first property; need to invest min $5000 per financial year, can access the funds after the 4th year…can not access funds mid way. Conditions applies.
So doesn’t hurt to have a mix of both, since 17% is for the first 5k only…so keep 5 k in option 1 and another 5k in option 2….then once a year fund another 5k into option 2…
Note: Not financial advice, since i dont know your financial situation and personal details- just a general suggestion ( also the first home owner account does come with a lot of restrictions)
Fixed?
Variable?
Basic or full feature loan ( im guesing basic , given your loan amount)?
Offset?
Redraw?
Do you need another product ie credit card?
Fees?
Set up cost?
Long term goal- are you wanting to invest further later down the track?
it’s easy to just split out the lender with the lowest rate, but it’s just about the rate…it’s about the structure, features, set up cost, Short term goal?
Example: one of the cheapest re-finance lender on the market is Ubank- 6.72% — however they come with a lot of restriction; 80% LVR only, do not service all postcode- Cash out is limited, re-draw is limited and no offset etc….cheap ? yes– good for investors who want to build aggressively build wealth? i think not….
Ummm your doing this all wrong, for the reason you want anyway….
1. Stamp duty is payble for the transfer. ( depending on state)
2. Since you want to buy a house in joint names – it “MAY” ( i say may because i dont know the financial figures) not make a huge financial difference,– what your doing is really shifting from NOT having a mortgage to having a mortgage under your BF’s name- so really your Joint serviceabilitly has decreased but your join “savings” has increased by the sales.
Solution:
It’s a simple solution, ask for a equity release and use this money (cash out) as a deposit to purchase your home.
IE, Unit worth $200,000 —- Approach bank or broker to organise a equity release of say 50%— so $100,000 cash will be given to you to fund the home purchase.