I’m with Commonwealth Bank and I recently negotiated a further decrease on my loan. I’m now on 6.61% which I think is 1.14% below their standard variable rates. I’m happy with this but it’s not out of the question to fix part of it if I see a really good deal!
Firstly Welcome to the forum and i hope you enjoy your stay and can learn + share some extra ideas!
Looking at the rate you have quoting im guessing your going with ANZ? or Suncorp? and there is a restriction that your LVR needs to be under 80%? if so then i would say your best to pay a bit of LMI for what you want to achieve ( buy more IP in 4 month time) – as you need every dollar you can save for the deposit for the next purchase etc…
Regarding fixed rate; your broker is right to a point- if you fix then it’s financially not wise to move as the fee to break a fixed price contract is HUGE!! But having said that a Fixed rate can help with budgeting and can improve serviceability and borrowing capacity.
Regarding what you should do and structure; would def need more info to give you a correct reponse/answ.
Reagrds
Michael
ris4rob wrote:
I am in the process of buying an (off the plan) house and land package valued at 400,000 (going to be positively geared or neutral at worse) and unsure what loan and structure i should be leaning towards.
Im currently on NET 130k per year and will have around 20k saved after all costs come out for the h and l package, a 500k house which i have 420k left on the loan. currently rented and costing me $400 per month i will be moving into this house in december for 6 months to keep the FHOG.
Im about to enter into a conditional pre approval for the h and l package and the broker i am using is suggesting to go variable as i will have more options in the future,(i plan to buy an ip every 4 months either neutral or positive) where as i think that a fixed rate over 3 years will be a better option eliminating risk.
Which do u think will be best a 3 years fixed at 6.4% or a variable at 6.8%?? or 5 years at 6.8%
i cant see the benefits of getting variable?? if i max out my borrowing power with this bank cant i just get another loan with a different bank and keep moving.??
What would be the best way to maximise my borrowing power do i lean towards a trust structure what do u think the best step forward is from here i am quite young and any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Regards Rob
With your equity- your employment won’t a major issue…
In fact you don’t even need to go down the No doc path- there are Low doc providers that deals with ABN less then 6 month.
As long as you can afford the loan; the lender is not going to have a issue.
These specialized lenders are small lenders; so they are not your traditional banks; rates are decent for what your getting from 7.8-9.65%+
1. You pay stamp duty on the portion your buying
2. Yes the bank needs to assess your loan again…so yes you will need a job for the bank to be able to “lend” you the money for the buy out.
Stuck on the serviceability issue, my broker reckons I'm pretty much leveraged to the max, (maybe need a new borker
I have 3 IP's and my PPOR, I want to get into CP+ properties in the mining ports Karratha, Port Hedland ect but servicing the loans would be an issue with the banks.
Having read much material on using equity after your IP has appreciated all makes sense and sounds simple enough but I've always come unstuck when it comes to serviceability. Once I've figured that one out I guess that's when I can quit my day job. Will keep searching for more creative financial solutions.
Yes Michael dont you love the Bank West Pre-approvals.
We approve your loan conditional upon you submitting a new application and all supporting documentation and we going through it with a fine tooth comb and seeing if there is any reason why we cant decline it.
Luv those lenders.
Cheers
Yours in Finance
God bless them,…they sure make our job more interesting
Thanks for the great infomation eveyone. I am very new to all of this so my questions are quite basic.
The loan is relatively small as I am buying in a large country town, and my dad has agreed to cover any repayments (if the property is vacant) while I am finishing my last year of university. I currently have a pre-approval so just need to find a property and pass the valuation.
So hypothetically, if I decided to take a risk and not disclose the fact that I am resigning from my job to the bank, how long do I need to wait before the bank can't pull out of the loan. For example, once the property settles I am safe right, regardless of what happens after that?
Cheers.
Side note there are many different type of pre-approval and to be honest most of them are not worth the paper they are written on- …MOST DONT DO ANY CHECKS until you find a place…
For example if you gone with Bankwest; they issue a computer generated pre-approval within 24 hrs- no checks just “calculation” based on the details YOU PROVIDED>
It’s not untill you find a place to buy + 10% then they wll ring your employer and confirm your employment details etc…
4/10 ppl with pre-approval do not end up buying a place, so it’s a waste of the banks time doing a full check at times.
1. If you fix you can choose P&I or I/O
2. Fixing a loan will generally improve your borrowing capacity- as some if not most lenders will be happy to use the “fixed rate” rather then their sensitivity rate which is much higher in term of serviceability calculation.
My personal thoughts is rates will drop; if anything it def wont go up…it can only stay the same or go downhills…
But fixing a loan is not about ” beating” the market it’s about planning and peace of mind.
IF you fixed the main advantage is
– You know exactly how much your holding cost is each month in terms of outgoing
– Your in going which is your rent will only go up ( rent tend to go up )
So Set outgoing with increasing rent and hopefully capital growth…. YA or YAAAAA??
You sure have some big and well thought out plans!!
It’s good to have big plans but you should take it slow and not jump stright into the deep end at first go…your only 20 you got plenty of time left up your sleeve to make money from property investing….
Property development is a totally different ball game, you can;t just read about it and expect it to go smoothly! your relying on a number of factors, each with it’s own possible problems:
1. Builders
2. Time frame
3. Council approval
4. Engineers and design- water pipe etc
5.Finance
6. Cash flow
7. Sales
I think it’s a better idea to start off with standard property investing strategy for your first one anyway and do basic renovations + maybe build granny flat etc … and really understand how “property investing works, ” in terms of finance, negative gearing, deprecation, management, tax, interest , renovations etc…before jumping in with the big boys.
How to finance such a deal?
—-
It’s good to know how a deal could be financed; so you have something to work towards.
Firstly 40k deposit is DEF not enough! in fact your going to have to triple that!
Land: 280k
Build: Im guessing as a min $180 each — so 180 x 3 = $820k total outlay not including another associated cost yet ( stamp duty , council approval fee , DA, Soil test, Design ) thee cost are all state and council dependent– but as a MIN roughly $880k outlay.
You will not find ANY lender that will do a construction for a block of 3 higher then 90% LVR ( getting 90% LVR is not easy as well) .
YOu can either go via the commercial lenders who are slightly more flexible, but a lot more pricey or the residential lenders who have set “rules” but are cheaper.
A bank looks at the following for larger construction ( 3-4 or more are considered “larger ” construction )
1. Experience – so you may need to bring a more experience partner into the transaction…ie the builder
2. LVR – Keep it under 80-90
3. Plan
4. Pre-sales– not required given the size…but is helpful
P.s no you can’t supply your own material, everything needs to be included into the fix price contract; else the bank simply won’t lend on “anything you buy” ie you buy the material out of your own cost = less money for deposit.
Thanks Michael! Is is likely that the bank would find out that I’m no longer in full time employment? In other words, how often do they check the loan applicants financial details between the time of pre-approval and settlement? Also, am I obligated to advise the bank that I am no longer employed. As I said before, servicing the loan is no issue, I simply need to get the loan first.
Hard to say, no set policy…it’s rare for them to check, but it does happen….; but just a side note if you go through a broker as part of our responsible lending obligation we will have to declare this ” possible change in financial in the next 12 month” …so i always recommend banks that has a policy in which they would accept a 1 day employment change over so the client is clear from day 1 where they stand and lower any potential lost/risk.
Is this a pre-approval only? meaning you have NOT found a place? and the bank has not issued a final unconditional approval??
The question of will the bank check?- WHO KNOWS …anything is possible. best to avoid problems so i would say hold off on buying till you have full or perm part time employment again…
There’s a famous case that only happened last year in which CBA declined to release the funds 1 week before settlement ( the guy had a UNCONDTIONAL approval) but of course one of the conditions is ” financial does not change leading up to settlement” – the guy lost his 10%.
There are some banks that will allow 1 day employment ( so no need to pass probation) as long as it’s perm full time and LVR is under 90%.
I thought I would share my frustration with some new bank lending criteria. I have sourced a property in Brisbane 2km from CBD. Returning just over $1,100 per weeks and for sale in the low to mid $800k’s. Gross returns for a house @ approx 7.2% gross returns. With 10% deposit and such great returns it seemed a no brainer. This house is in immaculate condition and the floor plan has been reconfigured to accommodate for 4 bedrooms all with ensuite and own kitchenette’s. 4 seperate leases (for each room) accumulates over $1,100 income. Bank criteria will not take into account the extreme returns as they deem it to be student accommodation and then decipher what the true market rent they think would be…. $600per week (rented out on one lease).
True rent to me is exactly the true rent that is on the leases?
Any thoughts.
Def a student accommodation/ boarding house type of property. Even thought it may make sense in terms of the numbers…the security type is to risky as it’s ” out of the box” – Even some insurance company would look at this as ” out of their policy/ risk”.
To finance this sort of property you need to go down the commercial side of things unfortunately.
IF they were not rooms/ but rather 4 “units” on one title…ie a block of small units, then that’s a different story and the bank would be happy to lend on a block of 4+ up to 80% LVR at a pretty decent rate as well- One room = 15 squ mters? VS one unit = 40-60 squ meters… a lot more “normal” for the banks.
The more Unique OR specialised the security is…the more creative you have to be when it comes to financing- bank’s don’t like specialised properties as it only attract certain buyers.
Ie not many if any Home owners would want to buy your above property, but it would attract some investors ( i say some, it can be a hassle to mange due to the number of ppl…getting strangers to get along with each another is not easy, yes different rooms but shared kitchen etc…)
Just look at the student accommodation selling in Broadway ( the lodge)- selling for $140,000- rent for $338 PW clear ….sounds greats?! there are literally 25+ of them on the market to be sold as of today 0.o
Based on what you have given- you can afford a loan of around roughly $265,000.
I added your child as dependent still as to become “financially independent” she/he needs to be over 18 OR have moved out etc…
The question of IF the bank would lend or not is a diff story and would require a lot more personal details + a look at your credit file, employment status and saving history to determine.- But based on what you have said so far, i would say YES it’s possible to get a loan but you most likely going to have to apply to a lender that allows NON-genuine savings up to 95%.
Why?
1. FHOG is not considered to be genuine savings with most lenders, and if your LVR is higher then 90% then genuine savings plays a huge part
2. You will be applying for a 95% + LMI loan.
Regarding stamp duty- depends which state your in??? Ie VIC- yes still stamp duty, but discounted at 20% etc, NSW – none for now but will change …
Can any of the brokers or anybody help?; we sure can….
To be honest your situation is not as bad as you think, it’s a matter of applying to a NON-genuine 95% LVR + LMI lender- rate will be higher around 7.6%.
There 4 banks in aus that would deal with NZ security, 3 small banks and of course there’s the well known ANZ.
ANZ- note your broker may not be accredited with ANZ (NZ); as i think there’s only less then 5 ANZ brokers in AUS that’s accredited with ANZ (NZ) – im not one of them as well ….but i can refer you to one who is. PM me.
Else you will have to find a broker located in NZ. as per above post.
It’s good service that your RAM manger has given you a call.
But to be honest this 12 month fix rate is more of a “bait’.
1. Rates is unlikely to go up…in fact it will stay the same or come down
2. 6.3% for 12 month is a very poor rate in term of” fix rate pricing” …when you compare fix rate, you need to compare it to another fix rate as well NOT just the variable.
Under 6.3% for 1 year fix is on offer with most banks + one bank is offering 5.99% for 1 year fixed!!!
3. 7.13% variable after the fix is also average , it’s ok if that’s the CR rate as well ( ie basic loan, no fees) but it depends also what features it provides….but yea 7.13% Var is so-and -so….
Remember your loan is not a short term loan, your going to most likely keep it for 3+ years??? so 7.13 for the next 2 ??