What i'm trying to say that the AMP valuation was $340. the outstanding loan amount with CBA was $283. The new loan amount with AMP is for $306. I want to access the $30k hence the reason for the refinance. They some how came up with a figure that the refi would allow me to acces $13k in cash. To start with this figure is too low as mentioned by mattnz above.
From $13k they took out $8k in LMI and all that stuff which seems a bit high leaving me only $5k cash in the offset account instead of $13k which should have been $22k.
I clearly dont know much about finance but anyone knows that LMI and fees would usually always be capitalised. In my case I have now lost about $17k (already received $5).
Does this make sense?
Im still a bit confused ? as your trowing random numbers around and i dont know how you calculated these numbers- ie where did the 13k come from?? and the 30k?
Valuation – $340 x 0.9 = $306,000
Loanwith CBA = $283k ( presuming no redraw)
Current loan with AMp = $306,000
So im guessing you got $283k straight refi + $23k = your new loan with AMP of $306,000 = 90% LVR
Could be a number of factors – you should have asked your accountant this question, but generally speaking;
1. Company- can’t pass on -ve gearing or any lost ( this may be the reason for the 70k buffer..- are you making a lost right now?)
2. No land tax threshold
3. No CGT discounting.
4. The company 29/30% tax rate – i have a feeling this is the reason for the 70k buffer, making 39k in rent is not a lot but depending on how much you make on your personal tax return and what tax bracket your on, company /trust structure MAY work better for higher rent.
I think an SMSF would be a more expensive way to go than holding company and discretionary trust. I did discuss this with my accountant today.
I'll have a look at the investment bond.
What a great forum this is.
Thanks again
Carole
No problem Carole.
Set up:
SMSF – cost is around $3,000- $4,500
Trust – $2,000 – $3,000
Holding cost-yes SMSF is slightly more ~ 20% more PA.
The cost difference is marginal…if your worry about a $1,000-$2,000+ difference for something as important as important as having the right structure, vehicle of purchase and asset protection, then investing in property may not be right for you, as PI has a lot of another associated cost…just something to think about.
Your financial planner will and should be your next best friend
Also one more thing you may want to discuses with your financial planner ( if she/he haven’t told you yet) is to change your Superannuation account to a Account based pension account. It means you start to draw on your Superannuation on a regular basis…but
1. You no longer pay the 15% tax
2. You no longer pay the 10% capital gain tax
And if you didn’t want to draw on the super- you could do a round robin and add the funds back into the Superannuation.
P.s Im not YET a registered financial planner- so please seek your own professional advice.
Never to late; as long as it’s really want you want + it meets the goal you want to achieve. Some issues you may face are;
1. Serviceability- instead of servicing a loan on 30 years…you may have to service it on a reduce term OR have a set realistic exit strategy
2. Time – Like most investment it required time for it to grow…so it depends if your after rental yield or capital growth etc..
3. Aggressiveness- Steve’s way of investing is what we call ” aggressive investor ” – keep on buying and unlocking unrealized equity ASAP so more properties can be bought in a short period of time- this may or may not suit your investing style + the bank may not fully support this style of investing given your age.
4. You may want to consider buying it under a SMSF???
The oldest client we have serviced a loan for was 71.
But either way- what ever you choose, i would highly suggest you speak to a financial planner; as there may be better means of investing given your retirement age. For example- a Superannuation Investment bond- 6-7% rental yield , low entry cost – and depending on your age and how you buy it- you pay NO CGT after 7 years.
When I was younger I went to as many free seminars as I could afford to . I think it is a good way to learn. I still do go to free seminars whenever I can – went to a recent one by the ATO on SMSFs (they didn't try to sell me anything which was strange).
Even if you put it into a family trust; your still a guarantor of that loan and beneficiary of the trust.
You still need to declare to the bank every loan your a guarantor of- and the liabilities and income of it will be used in the serviceability based on ownership.
Your best to sit down with a broker/ financial planner and go throught the numbers to see if you have reached your serviceability limit and if not what sort of scenario would prevent you from doing so + your max borrowing capacity for each scenario.
That be around right; 30k wage single…roughly around the $70-$120k mark depending on lender, product type and LVR.
And yes, drawing out equity later is a valid option; but how much you can draw out will depend on.
1. Your income then
2. Valuation
3. REASON for the draw out + banks approval.
The bank may not let you draw out the funds and just have it sitting there as a buffer ( depending on lender, LVR and product type of course)
Personally i would advise against new purchase purely for the $8k benefit..
1. You can’t see what your buying- being your first buy this can be a costly mistake
2. Builders tend to add a larger profit margin on top considering there is a grant as well
3. 70% of new build i have seen do not meet customers expectation …especially investors- ok for most owners occupiers.
4. buying it as of today’s price and hoping the market follows…hope is not a strategy; it’s a gamble
5. Off the plan, construction and new purchase from an investment point of view should be for exp investors who has cash buffer to back them up.
6. Change of financial situation half way.
It’s great for owner occupier as they know what they want- without caring too much about return or rental yield + willing to spend a bit more on quality finish and upgrades.
So really from a investors point of view ( or should i say from my personal exp) you benefit more from existing home because
1. You can claim a higher % of the benefit right from the word go
2. Easier to compare
3. Easier to research
4. Return is instant…dont need to wait 1-2 years before you see your 10% deposit working for you.
P.s 8k is not a lot of money…you can get this back quite quickly from rental….or if you buy a existing property at a cheaper price.
Just my 2 cent. My strategy and view point may not suit all investors.
5 star cannex award system is not customer service driven or how “safe is their rates and company” …it’s purely based on HOW CHEAP ARE THEY COMPARED TO XXXX
wow 6.22%- ok you get an award
+ you know these company AFTER they win the award pay Cannex and another award “system” magazine/website a advertising fee to advertise their banner + if they want to be featured in their magazines etc…
Unfortunately in the financial lending industry- every bank is different and there are a lot of variables and factors to consider.
So most award system really only compares the Comparison rate.
if you want to compare NOT just the rate; but the banks reputation, policy, features, suitability to your personal circumstances you will have to do your own research or go to a broker you can trust ( one that won’t recommend based on $$ commission received )
P.s option 3 is pointless….your paying weekly rent to share a place with someone – you might a well go with option 2 and buy the place ( mortgaged) and share it that way; The advantage being;
1. You gain potential capital gain
2. Dont have to worry about moving and land lord
3. Tax benefit
4. Rent increase is controlled by you.
5. Sub-leasing is controlled by you.
1) Buy a home (likely around $400-500k) and pay off ASAP to reduce the interest. Then after I own it, I can start looking at investment property. I don't think I would be able to sustain the interest in buying a home and investment property at the same time. – Things to note, Initially I won't want to live by myself so would be getting a 2-3 bedroom and renting the other bedrooms out.
1. dont pay down the loan directly- keep the cash into a linked offset account….paying down the loan is not a smart move + it will take you a while…trust me it looks easy but it’s not…so by the tie you do pay down the “mortgage” the prices of IP would have sky rocketed ….+ you have no deposit and would need to do a equity release anyway to fund the purchase….pointelss? yes it is…
DMB wrote:
2) Buy a place (likely $300-400k) and live in there initially to get the first home owners grant, but main reason to turn it into an investment property after. I would either then look into buying a home or finding somewhere to rent. This option would be basically to get the grant. May even consider building instead and being able to get the double grant of $14k. .
Without knowing your financial, how stable your income is ( since your self employed), what your goals are, do you have a family etc…i would say from the face of it; this is a better option – as you would get the grant + you can live in one room and rent out the another after the grant period as per your goal…while you save up a deposit to keep buying an 2nd IP etc…
DMB wrote:
Also a bit about my finances, I have approximately $100k saved up currently in a UBank savings account, earning 6.11%. Being self employed, I don't have an exact salary but it's around $80-$110k per year, with very minimal chance of going below this.
Any advice would be fantastic and most appreciated.
When you say you dont have an exact figure…this tells me you have been self employed for less then 2-3 years???
For more specific advice; more details/ information is required. Shoot us an email if you want more info as well.