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Very much so. The DA I reviewed (knocked back a few times) is now 39.3% excluding garages. BTW the DA cost in excess of $30k!!!! for a single house. (Including design/town planning/redesigns & council fees). It will cost at least another $15-20k to get those plans through to construction certificate before it can be built.
ON close to 1000 m2, 40% equates to only 400m2 ie 100 m2 per dwelling not much by today's standards however there may be other opportunities eg 1 pair of duplexes @ 200 m2 each or possibly SEPP5 units for the over 55's if your block meets SEPP 5 conditions which override council.
Could I also suggest that if you like the block next door so much, buy it as well (if you can afford both) and develop/rent/sell the first. You never know what you may be able to do with a double block.
Prepare for a long and drawn out da process with HSC (possibly up to 2 years). Their requirements are quite stringent with regards to the information required to be provided.
I have recently reviewed the documentation for a da for a single house on a sloping site in HSC zoned 2a environmentally sensitive (adjacent to a bushland reserve) – site covered in 20-30m tall var. eucalypts. DA included town planning reports etc.
The vendors can probably sue for specific performance ie you are stuck with it unless there is a major defect eg you have been declared insane. I doubt that the vendor will be too interested in anything less than complete restitution (I know I wouldn't be too happy, especially if I had banked on the sale for my new place)
Resealing concrete tiles is totally unnecessary and purely cosmetic – ie the best form of maintenance is repointing of your cappings, replacement of the valleys and guttering, the rest is unnecessary.
Sure, the tiles will look new – however the acrylic paint used bonds the lip of the tile to the next tile as well as fading over time. The paint applied is not impervious.
Call an alternative price from another applicator eg complete or the like. I would have thought that it would have cost around $2-3k not $5k.
Your LOC seems incredibly expensive, any chance of changing financier and repackaging the LOC to a lower rate?
Is your LOC currently partially/fully drawn? Can you utilise this as your deposit or go thru the motions of a deposit bond (however the settlement period isn't really long enough to justify its use)?
The number of electric shocks experienced by sparkies is minimal (probably only a few more than anyone else working around the home) – sparkies have a greater awareness from a safety aspect, know what to avoid and the procedures to take to ensure a safe workplace. That said, it is generally the apprentice who gets stung through inexperience. Work cover could help you out with stats or long term health effects.
Try to get into an apprenticeship with a larger electrical company eg commercial/industrial contractors rather than domestic as they gain a wider degree of experience in the field and see a more diverse range of projects eg substations, main switchrooms, lifts, back up power supplies (generator installations), as well as the full range of lighting, power and data installations.
Working on new installations is also less risky than working on existing/refurbishment/maintenance/demolition type projects.
If you haven't signed the agency agreement – DON'T! Hold it over the agency's head to get them to drop their management fees to compensate the loss of rent and to provide satisfactory proof that the rent achieved is market rather than the agreed rent (ie do they have proof of advertising the property at the required rent & offers recieved below this value?). If they do not, advise them that you will be taking the matter to dept of fair trading to seek the revocation of their licence for operation without an agency agreement and without authorisation.
Even a standard contract for sale of a property or a residential lease is longer than 4 or 5 pages hitambakar. Both parties will most likely need independent legal advice ie you both shouldn't use the same solicitor's office.
Off the plan purchases occasionally qualify for stamp duty concession (not exemption). Check out the OSR site to see what applies or speak to your conveyancer.
See the bank for what deal they can do for you ie at what price are they willing to buy back the fixed 7% loan? ie how much will the bank pay you to close a cheap loan?
They are two independent offers to two different parties each with their own agenda/motivation for selling. If each of the offers is reasonable to the vendors then they can both accept, sign your contract and you are bound. You will need to decide which property that you desire more, make an offer on it (with a sunset clause) and a sunrise + sunset clause on the other ie property 1 to lapse 12.00 5/3/8, Offer 2 to be valid from 12.01 5/3/8 – 10.00 on 8/3/8. Or you can simply make both offers verbally and not come good on the less preferred option (subject to a condition that you can wriggle out of easily).
Essentially, a lawyer will pass the conveyance to a conveyancing clerk in their office. You then pay the extra for them to check their office's work. Conveyancers are licensed to do the job, if it is a straightforward transaction, use the conveyancer. Both will review the contract gratis prior to you submitting an offer and recommend any amendments required.
You should put a time limit on your offer ie it will expire at 4.00 pm Friday XX/03/08
Contact the solicitor who did the conveyance on your behalf – they may have a record on file. They will also tell you how to get a replacement copy of the title thru the LTO (if it was unencumbered) otherwise your financier will be holding it as security.
They, as the bereaved, are out to maximise their inheritance. Going to auction is the fairest way (to them) to achieve the best price on the day. Taking an offer prior to the auction is not in their best interests. If it fails to sell at auction, make sure that you are the underbidder to ensure you can negotiate a sale on the day.
Remember to price apples for apples ie rendered brickwork (ie cheap extruded brick/render) with hebel/render. I have mainly used 600 x 200 x (suitable thickness) blocks not panels for walls (although I have used reinforced panels for roofing). Is using rendered blueboard an option or will you need to achieve the fire/noise ratings?
$300k will score you a 2 bed villa around Doncaster (about 20km).
You may have to lower your standards and go for a unit.
Yes, although you will still have to meet your monthly minimum repayments.
You've got me confused MS. Are you building brick veneer (but with Hebel) or using 200 mm solid blockwork?
Do yourself a favour and download the Hebel Manual (or call one of the reps to bring one out to you) to get an appreciation of the product.
I have used it extensively in commercial applications – once you have had it cement rendered, you can't tell the difference, so I don't know what the agent is telling you (unless you intend to leave the material raw, which is not a good look).
Fixing picture hooks, architraves, door jambs etc to Hebel is a little bit harder as the material is soft (compared to brick) however, with the right fixings it is not a problem.
Did you select Hebel for its fire/noise rating capabilities (for the thickness) or from an aesthetic point of view?
As for durability, the surface is as soft as plasterboard until you render it. It will take a knock quite well but it is a lightweight form of construction which meets the fire codes.
