Hi to everyone,
I believe I have caught the bug. I have just reconnected to the internet for the purpose of chasing bricks and dirt after reading the book. I preferred a Gum tree to the Net up to now. Steve’s approach turns Real Estate attitudes on their head. All makes sense to me, but still “wrapping” my mind around a wrap-around-mortgage. I work for Qantas as a Load/Movement Controller (just done 20 years time 2 weeks ago – another 3 months long service leave to enjoy)and had run a property maintenance business for 15 years concurrently up to now. Decided to regroup myself and bought a Canberra townhouse 7 months ago and sublet a room. I figure I now have equity upon which to tap.
Looking forward to meeting you people of like minds in the hope that we can assist one another in our directions to wealth creation.
Kind regards, Phil
Hi Mini, I know what you are saying. I can only respond by saying that obviously we negative gearers are taking a bit of a punt. The punt is that the properties we control will achieve enough capital gain to make it all worthwhile. The depreciation is crucial to making it work. We have to be able to be able to keep our head above water until the rent goes up a enough to take up the slack when the depreciation runs out, and the depreciated stuff needs replacing.
Obviously it will be less effective if you are not operating in at least the 43.5% tax bracket, so it becomes an interesting balance of when you buy and how often you buy new properties, eg one per year. It’s also possible to be a bit creative with timing of buying and selling. Eg I bought 4 properties when I had to sell my shares in my company which resulted in a big CG event, so all my initial depreciation was offset at the max tax bracket. Similarly I would consider selling one of my properties that has a reasonable capital gain, and buying more properties in the same F/Year. The initial depreciation can be quite substantial eg $9,000 due to all the items less than $300 being depreciated 100%, and the effect of the diminishing value method for the rest. It’s mathematically much better to get as much depreciation as you can, as early as you can, working in the max tax bracket if possible. The tax man is refunding me todays precious dollars (only half of) which I will have to pay back in 25 years or so, with crummy little dollars that will barely be worth picking up off the ground!
It’s all a bit of a game!
Jim.
Thanks all. The charge I incurred was from Westpac in setting up my professional package. I haven’t tried to buy any more properties since. I guess I’ll find out everything when I do.
Regards, Jim.
PS any loan costs have to be depreciated prime cost at 20%, ie over 5 years. I was allowed to write off the written down value of all previous loan costs immediately when I refinanced however.
Just a digression, but in relation to buying interstate, do any of you buy interstate to avoid the land tax threshold, ie by effectively combining the thresholds from each state?
Jim.
Regina, I know you like suburban houses, but I know some investors prefer new 2-3 brm units or townhouses, within a 3 to 7 km radius from the cbd. One of the reasons they give is that the unit represents a larger proportion of the cost of the property (smaller land area) and hence achieves a greater depreciation to purchase price ratio. This effectively increases the total number of properties they can purchase.
It’s always a balance between cash flow and capital gain expectation I suppose.
Jim.
It was not clear to me if the yield % is before you pay tax or after.
Maggie your question hasn’t really been explicitly answered properly. I know Richmond has effectively answered you by his example, but the simple answer is that yield is just the gross yield, or “Gross Rental Return”, ie simply the rent per year divided by the purchase price. Steve quotes a figure of 10.4% being roughly what is necessary to achieve positive cash flow, after all the rates, interest and maintenance have been taken out. I, as a negative gearer (well that’s how I’ve started anyway) will usually strive for a gross rental return of 6 to 7 % on a new property, which together with the tax benefit of claiming for depreciaiton is just enough to keep me cash flow positive after tax.
Jim.
Hi Resurrect, I used to have a RLOC but I refinanced it with a standard investment home loan plus offset account when I changed banks.
Here are some pros & cons (my opinions only)
Pros of rloc: 1.It’s very ready investment cash which is great if you want to buy and sell a more liquid asset like shares.
2. It’s also very easy to provide the 20% equity for a new home loan, especially if you are using a different lender.
Cons: 1. You have to pay mortgage stamp duty on the whole amount, even if you only ever use a small amount of it.
2. It’s very tempting to use it for private purchases. This is a big no-no with the tax man, even if you pay it back very quickly, eg when you get a tax refund etc. Example: If you have a rloc for $100k, and you decide to buy your wife a car for $20k, knowing you will be able to pay it back next month when your whatever cheque arrives. The ATO can claim that you have demonstrated that 20% of your rloc is for private purchases, forever ie as long as your rloc shall live, even though you paid it back quickly.
3. You have to pay FDT for every withdrawal because it’s a cheque account. (I find those little fees really offensive, even if they are relatively small, as they add up over the year.)
4. If you are just using the rloc for property purchases then it can be done with normal home loans, because they can tap into your equity just as easily.
I believe that some lenders just use rlocs as a marketing tool to try to dupe borrowers into believing they can pay their home off sooner, only because they are spilling much more principal into the loan then they realise. Mixing private stuff with an investment loan is an accounting nightmare. “Contamination” is my favourite word for this. You can get different sub accounts in the rloc if you really want to use it for both private and investment purposes, however.
The offset account achieves essentially the same thing, and keeps a nice firewall between private and investment stuff. The effect is fairly minimal though, eg my offset account has been operating for two years, and my bank shows me exactly how much interest I have saved so far. It’s about $950, which means that I’ve averaged about $7,900 in the account (7900 X 6% X 2 years). Just pure maths as I’ve stated before, without the smoke and mirrors lenders try to use. By the way, that’s $950 tax deductable dollars, so I’ve only saved 484 after tax dollars.
Just a few ideas. I’m sure others would have a few more.
Jim.
I suppose the obvious thought that springs to mind is that people will leave the country and so prices will fall – less demand for the properties in the area. This could happen at the same time as people who are unemployed – recently laid off, on the DPB, for whatever reason – in the city moving to the country so that they can get a decent quality house and lifestyle given their limited incomes. I know of a number of people who have done this over the years, and not so far from Melbourne, e.g. to Daylesford, Castlemaine, Woodend, as well as to places much further away like Port Fairy.
Boy that ATO website is frustrating to find info in! It explains how a balancing adjustment on a car works, but how do we work out how much of our sale price of a house is due to the carpets?!
Waiting with bated breath for enlightenment, mensch. Thanks I.A.
Thanks mencsh for clarifying those numbers, but I’m still not sure what a balancing adjustment means.
“When u sell, u have to do balancing adjustment of div 40 – lets assume its $3000”
How do you come up with the number? I assume it’s got something to do with the expected life of the fittings, but I would really appreciate a clarification. Thanks, Jim.
mencsh, hi, I’ve just been trolling through the ATO guides about deprecitation & CGT. They state that your cost base is reduced by the amount you claim for capital works, (eg 2.5% of the cost to build the property), but I can’t find any mention of whether depreciation of your carpets, curtains etc affects the cost base or not. Can you clarify this. Please don’t quote numbers like div 43 or div 40!
Thanks, Jim.
Thanks all for your answers. Yes Chandara, that’s where I just read about it. I’m mainly thinking about my Daughter’s first PPoR. She’s got a good wage, but has only just started her career, and wants to get her own house asap. I’m assuming you might be able to refinance when your equity improves after a year, but I guess the main issue would be how much does it cost to refinance these days. Do you still have to pay for the full mortgage stamp duty again or has that recently changed with new rules?
I think that sometimes ppl might change jobs to opt for more pay (and obviously more work).. however, I find that the extra pay that I am missing out on if I had changed jobs, I more that make up for if I only find 1 right property in a year.. I would really have to work my butt off for the $100k+ extra that I made on my property![]
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Hey guys,
I have been sort of monitoring Wagga for about 6 months (since I have a block there) and it seems that a 2 br unit can range from about 70k for a really older crappy one to over 300k for a nice new one. You can easily get indications from websites such as realestate.com.au Apparently according to the real estate agents out there, the prices didn’t move for like 10 years.. until like the end of last year when (my ones at least) doubled.. some are skeptical that it will rise anymore.. more likely plateau.
That isn’t really much info, however I hope it helps.[]
Cheers,
Angie
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I know it is an old story by now Rowan but I am just curious whether you signed an agreement with the second real estate office or whether they merely got a conjunction.
I guess you’ve had legal advice at the time.
BTW if we don’t report bad experiences then those people will continue to rip off others.
Pisces133
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