Best to start with a solid foundation, grasping and understand the concepts, language etc. associated with property investing. Next would be to invest in some resources nameley text’s, a great start would be Steve’s “From 0 to 130 properties in 3.5 years” a great overview of positive cashflow investing.
Once done and feeling confident then the most powerful tool at your hands to start investing would be the Internet. As I’m sure you must be familiar with posting on this forum. There are many Real Estate sites (www.property.com.au, http://www.realestate.com.au) along with nearly all the tools / resources you would need to get in contact or attain information you need to begin your debut in property investing.
I recommend Steve’s “Wealth Guardian” if you have not read/listened to it already. It teaches about protecting your assets which will be a major factor in your wealth creation plan. Also incorporates structuring/planning to create wealth/protect wealth etc. A very good resource.
Selling is one way although will be a tough decision and a great sacrifice to make, but one worthy if you set out a correct structure and do your homework.
You could get a valuation on your property and if it has increased than that of banks current valuation the you could borrow against that equity there, or alternatively on any equity you may already have paid off on your mortgage.
If you set out a correct structure/plan then what your borrow is essentially an investment that will be returning positive returns so there should be no qualms in associating with what you can and cannot afford at the time. It will all be factored into the big picture once you have set your path to financial freedom.
Think & Plan first, and then you will find it will be a lost easier to incorporate strategies into your investing debut. Rather then taking wild potshots now.
It seems that you are on the right track and have a basic knowledge of the area and it’s advantages in terms of Investing in Property. I think it’s now time to take it a step further and get down to some serious investigating. Perhaps even before you start investigating you could setup a structure followed with that of a quick check list, if the proposed area passes the quick test then forward you go.
I personally think if you are keen to get out and be financially free then your motivation which I see you have plenty of will be matched equally with your determination and persistence being that it’s time know to take it a step further and go into the local council and get the statistics / reports / future planning etc. go to the real estate and ask for copies of median house prices over the last year and rental prices, use the Internet especially, the Internet can be your Best Friend, it can link you up with nearly all the tools needed to conduct your indepth research. And once done I’m sure you will feel immense satisfaction in knowing that you have covered all possible angles and thereby reducing the risk associated with investing in property.
I hope this gives a sort of general outlook into investing, I know you may just be asking other forumites if they have invested or their opinions if they have researched but then again I think at the end of the day no opinions or no comments will be as solid as those that you have researched and ascertained yourself from your own hard work.
I beleive ACA only gave their viewers a “helicopter’s view” of potential investment propertys. Sure they were cheap but that was about all that was mentioned along with maybe a few minor specifics. Be sure first to conduct your due dillegence on the area to make sure that there is a market for rental properties, steady/booming population, positive rental yields, employment prospects etc. to term with your particular investing structure. The worst decision you could make is to get caught in the hype that the media is portraying without first considering the most important factors of investing, being to do your homework! =p
That’s correct Celivia, the report is once only. They should give you at least 8 to 10 year’s worth of data, but the rest can easily be derived from the last WDVs. Let us know how it pans out, I’m curious to know how they estimate it all. They may just give you a report with everything at prime cost, and another with everything at dim. value, leaving the choice up to you. (That’s what they did with mine, but older prop’s may be different)
Regards, Jim.
I guess it all depends on the age of your fittings Rod. My Q/S report cost $450 five years ago, so I assumed it would be a bit more now. I think your 25k example is a bit unrealistic for an older house though. My fittings totalled 16k for a brand new fully carpeted 3 bedroom home. Of course it’s tax deductible, but depreciation is also just a tax deduction, so comparing relative cost vs benefit is still the same ratio. Tax just divides everyting by 2 or whatever.
Just one point about my figures Celivia, I quoted 20%, which was for the diminishing value method. The prime cost method typically uses 13%, and I believe (one of you learned accountants may care to verify this) that you can adopt either method for your partially depreciated fittings, irrespective of which method the previous owner may have used. eg say your hot water system cost $2,000 three years ago:
Dim Value 20% will result in a written down value (WDV) of $1024 but 13% prime cost will result in the WDV being $1220. If it was 8 years old however, Dim Value will leave $335 but Prime Cost will leave zero.
Perhaps a good Q/Surveyor would do all this for you, ie pick the best method for each item. It must be a bit tricky if they have no idea of the age of each fitting. It’s probably worthwhile just for the sake of credibility with the tax man if you have no evidence of costs. I would appreciate input from any investors with real experience of Q/S reports for older properties.
Jim
Celivia It’s probably not worth the cost, as you just wouldn’t find enough deductions to make it worth it. Perhaps I should list the Q/S report for a brand new home below, so you can get some idea of what’s depreciable, and how much doesn’t apply to an older property.
Firstly the wholesale cost of the building may be depreciated at 2.5% pa, ie over 40 years, so this won’t apply.
Secondly modular kitchen cupboards are depreciated at 2.5% pa (don’t know why) so you should still be able to claim a small amount for these. Eg my house: kitchen cupboards were assessed @ $2585 which amounts to the princely sum of $65 pa depreciation! You will be able to claim the whole of the written down value remaining if you ever replace these however.
The rest is as follows (note that several items could be deducted 100% as they were worth less than $300):
That’s it for a brand new 3 bedroom house, so you can see just how much of that won’t apply for an older home. All the new stuff you’ll probalby know about, so it’s just a matter of knowing the depreciation rate and age. Work on 20% and you won’t get in trouble. The Q/S report may be $500+ so it probably won’t be cost effective.
I agree totally with Dogs. I’m just writing an article for The Australian about this. This arrangement can save you from nil to 5% (of interest payable)… not that great really.
That a bit Ruff Stu! (calling me dogs!)[]
How is that article going? Let us know when/if it’s going to be published, or maybe we can email you for a copy?
Regards, Jim.
Note that your PPoR is exempt, so you will have to notify them of the change. You should have been sent an assessment each year, so it’s strange that you have to pay so much now. I believe that most people are only aware of it when they receive their first assessment. I paid tax on my PPoR for 3 years before I finally noticed the exemption in a brochure they sent me last year, so I would be interested to hear if anyone else has been caught out by that. Land tax works on the total of your (your share of) official valuations of all your land minus the land your PPoR sits on, so make sure they have got it right. You can certainly claim it a a tax deduction. It a bit strange, the way the tax benefit effectively makes the federal gov’t subsidise the state gov’t. The only way you can “avoid” this tax is to have total land valuation less than $261,000 in NSW, $220,000 in Qld etc. Note that you can spread your properties around different states, and effectively add those thresholds together, because they are independent.
HTH,
Jim
I have booked in to attend Peter Flanagan’s seminar at high noon next Tuesday, Canberra. This was independant of your post, and as a result of an ad in the local paper.
Thanks for your observations. Cynically, I expect to meet brokers, estate agents and perhaps a bank if he has one on side. This is how I expect him to make a cut from the seminar. Putting the package together. I was interested to note from the ad that the quotes and terminology were very similar to that which I had read in Steve’s book.
I’m now about to post my own “newbie” questions to the forum. I will also report back to you with my own perception of the seminar.
An international flight attendant for Qantas (even though the Q stands for queer, I am not!! [])
Hi Brent, Qantas worker here also (just served 20 years on the 15th). No need to qualify yourself as straight by the way. I wonder why you blokes seem to think that you have too. Anyway, I would be keen to discuss a side income producing idea with you, targeted to the audience of long haul crew. If ya want .. you can contact me at [email protected]
I’m a newbie also. Living in ACT. (Shoulda bought those $40,000 units in Queanbeyan 3 years ago). Read the book, and starting to look at things differently. Without any expectations I would like to run a few questions by a local of like mind, over a scotch or two. If you would care to discuss same you are welcome to contact me at [email protected]
Purchaser 1 is paying almost twice your monthly repayment at 80%.
How much does this represent of their income?
Why cannot Purchaser 1 obtain their own finance?
Cash flows are overly simplified.
Their monthly payments – your monthly payments = cash flow (wrong!).
You will need to find out all your annual costs and take them into account.
Also, check that the property is valued at $120,000. If your purchaser defaults in a short period of time, you will need to either let it or on-sell it again. Make sure your purchase price is correct.
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