Forum Replies Created
- Originally posted by fjficm:
What about this idea
All of you are talking about extremes of property investment – truly positive cashflow and all the problems that go with it like poor CG and tennants either crap or non-existant or negatively geared but sucks your wealth and make you work forever
I am a person who belives in balance
What about getting neutral or slightly negatively geared properties in reasonable areas that are 100 – 200K that gets 5-6% return and in 5- 10 years time you have a balnce of CG and positive cashflowThat is pretty similar to my strategy, except I favour somewhat higher yields (8-9%) and lower prices ($80-120k). Properties must be well-located within regional cities, highly tenantable, brick and <20yo.
These would tend to be slightly negatively geared (positive after tax).
This is not unlike the approach followed by Margaret Lomas. As Steve points out this sets a limit on the number of properties as your taxable income drops and there are risks if you lose your job.
But if you’re happy to live off the rent of 5 or 6 decent properties that have been paid off, then I think it’s a reasonable approach.
The main risk of selecting something in the middle is getting neither growth nor yield and ending up with an indifferent investment! Hence I like the idea of consciously selecting property for either yield or growth potential (even if sometimes yield properties can have excellent growth too!).
Peter
Originally posted by lawrence:I totally agree peter, I am much younger than you and have had the same sort of experience.
Are you? This was only in 1978. (But wait – that’s nearly 30 years ago, so that makes me same age as Steve!)
>Can I interpret your message as support for my theories.
Sort of but not really ; )
Afterwards we found somewhere better (nearer town and with MAINS ELECTRICITY!) but I speculate what happened to that house.
I suspect it’s become just one of the many thousands of vacant empty derelict houses that are sitting on farms around the country.
Your approach is more like a ‘slum lord’ (ie renting cheap but buying cheaper) whereas I’d rather have a smaller number of conveniently located and well-presented brick properties in regional cities that have fewer maintenance/tenant hassles and (in at least some cases) have growth potential.
>Anybody else.NOTE, small towns today of 2-3 hundred >people are not as bad as peters story. I have lived >in many towns less than 5 hundred with a central >school, shops pubs, bowling clubs, maybe a cafe.
But for how long?
The houses themselves are probably fine. But if the bank’s just closed, the train stopped years ago, and one of the farming families has sold up, taking their 3 kids with them. The school loses a teacher as a result and there’s less money to go around.
>Thats it. see what I mean, the people are content. >and content to pay your rent.
What if they get old and will need to enter a nursing home in the next bigger town? There’s no young people or migrants moving in to replace them as your tenants.
Your approach could work well but is risky unless you’ve done your research (like Westan). But I like the approach of SIS and have a mixture of high yield and high growth in the portfolio.
Peter
Originally posted by Celivia:
I don’t believe that tenants actually want to live in them[xx(], it must be so depressing to live in a sh#theap and maybe to have to raise kids there. I couldn’t stand by and see cute little kids having to live in bad conditions. Even a dog should have a nice kennel imho.I lived in such a place for about 12 mths when I was 6.
30km out of town, no mains power, walls blackened by local ‘itinerants’ who’d turfed out the gas stove and lit fires on the (concrete?) loungeroom floor.
Power was either by an unreliable 32 volt generator or hurricane lamp. The radio was battery powered and the fridge and heater was kerosene.
As a kid at the time I thought nothing of it as I knew or remembered no better. Other people we knew were in a temporary tin shack. But it would have been tough on mum, especially during summer.
My tenants are housed better than I am. But the bit in Steve’s book is pertinant about the lady who loved living near a noisy busy road because it helped her sleep.
People have different priorities and what might be hovels for those with middle-class sensibilities might be an accepted way of life for others. (consider that city slum clearance programs were not necessarily a success for social reasons)
Peter
Originally posted by kaloni:
I live in Malvern Vic
rents for a 3br house start at about $400 pw
and go up to $800pw !!!!!!!!!!Just a couple of kilometres away in Carnegie 1 br flats normally start at $140pw ($7k pa approx).
Assume a single person on $30k/yr. After tax somewhere near $24k. Food is around $80pw ($4k) and bills+fares+misc around $120pw ($6k pa). Total expenditure = $17k.
Surplus = $7k pa or over $600 per month.
A couple on the same income each living in a 2br place could possibly save over $15k pa or $1250/mth.
Increase their income to $40-50k each and the $2k per month Redwing mentions should be doable.
Peter
My bias would be towards unfurnished, unless you were willing to be an active PM who lives near their IPs.
Furniture can make a cf- property cf+. For example, in a town I know where unfurnished units typically yield 8-10%, furnished places can fetch 10-12%.
There are also tax benefits of having heaps of depreciating furniture, but eventually it will need to be replaced, providing more costs for you.
I can see their advantages in mining towns, remote places (eg Darwin) and capital cities where there are professionals on short term contracts.
Another issue is that PMs might charge more (10% instead of 8.5%) and tenants may be more transient with more vacancy.
I would also be concerned that a newish 1br ff property, for example would be more vulnurable to labour market changes than (say) a 2-3br u/f unit which would appeal to a wide cross-section of locals.
Also where I’ve been looking some one bedroom ff places can be almost as expensive as 2-3br u/f which I consider are overpriced.
Because I’m a fairly passive investor who wants long-term tenants my bias is thus for u/f units in a handy location. And by making that choice I don’t think I’ll be worse off than people getting higher (but more volatile) yields from f/f.
Peter
Originally posted by WAF:Does anyone have any info on Katanning, I think it has a population of around 4,000 and is located apparently with easy access to Perth, Albany, and Bunbury.
Katanning’s population has been dropping for about the last 30+ years. It’s mainly dependent on wool.
‘easy access to Perth, Albany and Bunbury’ means a pleasant 2-3 hr drive, but certainly not daily commuting distance.
There’s nothing special I can think about the place, so unless you can get an exceptional deal, I would look to places with better prospects.
Peter
Originally posted by Simon2:Is the eleven second solution the only andor best way of determining if a property will be cashflow positive?
It’s not the only way, and is really only a rough approximation. No more and no less.
Use it as a filtering tool but there is no substitute for adding up the actual figures.
Will 10.4% give you positive cf? Depends. What if the HWS or A/C fails? That would be enough to make many slightly + properties negative.
What if you borrow 90% and not 80%. Again even with 10.4% you’d probably be -ve geared before tax.
Rates tend to be a much higher proportion of property value in country areas then in the cities. (eg $800/$100 000 property vs $800 out of $300 000 property), so this will influence the cf. Other costs also seem proportionately higher for cheaper properties.
As for growth and buying undervalued property, I bought one for cf and no expectation of growth. Another had a lower yield, but was in a town I thought was undervalued.
6 mths after my purchases comparable properties were sold. Both indicate a likely cg of 10-15% in 6 mths, meaning that growth can’t be predicted as easily as cf.
My higher cf property has had many more repairs needed, so overall they’re performing about the same, both for growth and cf!
Rgds, Peter
Originally posted by yack:2. I have considerable doubts about her strategy of targetting new homes to take advantage of the buiding allowance and depreciation benefits.
Agreed. New homes have more money in the building and less in the land, so growth prospects are less.
As Steve McKnight always says there’s a limit to the number of properties that you can buy if you’re reliant on tax benefits to pay for them.
Her greatest insight is if there are two identical buildings, one built in 1984 and the other built in ’86 (or better still ’88) then the newer one is going to be a better investment.
But there was a case I deliberately flouted her rule.
I had the choice between a duplex half built in 1984 and a villa unit built later. Both were in good beachside suburbs of a small coastal city. The yield of the duplex was 8.3% whereas the villa was nearer to 6.5-7% as the older duplex was $15-20k cheaper. The duplex’s garden wasn’t flash but it had a much larger land component with a larger backyard, so has more growth potential.
The building depreciation on the newer building would certainly have been less than the interest on the larger loan, some of which I’d rather put towards the next IP!
On a building that cost $80k, building depreciation should only get you back about $600pa (2.5% & 30% tax), which is handy but not the biggest factor.
Had the duplex been built a year later it would have been even better. However nothing like that was available at the time, and I am satisfied that I made a good decision.
Regards, Peter
Originally posted by Derek:Hi Penguin,
My recommend is;
1. Learn as much as you can about investing but set yourself a timeline to do something.
2. While learning start to clarify your goals and preferred style of investing.
3. Ask lots of questions to further clarify what you want to do and how.
4. Determine borrowing potential and buying capacity. (You may not be comfortable spending all you can borrow)
5. Identify areas you can afford to invest in then go and do it!
6. Put your offer in subject to the regular clauses.
7. When your offer is accepted get the solicitor and broker onto the job and at the same time get those inspections organised.
8. Ensure all finance documents (pay slips etc) are current and give these to your broker.
9. Closer to settlement carry out your pre-settlement inspection to ensure property is as offered.
10.Select property manager – who does not have to be with the selling agent.
11. Notify property manager of impending settlement date so they can start looking for a tenant.
12. Ensure solicitor and broker are on target to meet deadlines.
13. Collect keys and give to PM upon settlement.
14. Celebrate the occasion.
15. Set up and maintain record keeping books.
16. File all documents for possible CGT liability later.17. Re-read building inspectors report and formulate a maintenance plan, starting with the important, and finishing with the merely aesthetic.
18. Discuss with Property Manager (or tenant) your ideas for adding value and whether these would provide sufficient return
19. Set up a contingency account for unforseen expenses and have a plan for managing cashflow (assuming rates, bills all come at once)
20. Consider lodging a variation to your income tax (if your properties are neg geared before tax)
21. Monitor values of your first property so you can see if there is scope for using any increased equity for a deposit on No 2!
22. Start looking again, starting with establishing finance availablity and what you want from a property (growth – cashflow mix).Peter
‘Marketing’ is just a genteel word for people who can’t bring themselves to say that they’re involved in ‘selling’!
Tertiary educated people tend to ‘market’ while people with less formal education (who tend to call a spade a spade) just ‘sell’.
Peter
Originally posted by james:Originally posted by daaj10242:Yack,
Purchase price $130,000, residential,large town 30,000 i think,rent $310 per week ,or $155 each side (Duplex).Was that in Geraldton?
That price is not out of the question for a duplex in one of Geraldton’s housing commission suburbs, though even that would be a good buy these days. 1980s villas in good areas go for not much less than $90k (>$100k for something newer).
Geraldton is a low rent town. A 1980s duplex half in a good suburb near the beach fetches around $125pw, while one in a lesser area would be nearer to $110-115pw. If it was furnished $155 might be possible. But it would need to be in a good spot given that plenty of reasonable houses rent for about that or less.
Peter
Originally posted by YoungInvestor:If there is anyone who bought an IP before PPoR i’d love to hear suggestions of which direction I should take to get started?
Power”Hi Steve – I’m a fan of buying IPs before PPOR.
Why not look at something as close to cf positive as possible in as big a regional centre as possible. If you set a figure of $80-100k, then it should be possible to buy two properties with your borrowing limit.
Your saving record is impressive! You are close to being able to afford #1 now, but unless you get something very cheap ($40-50k) you’d still need to borrow 90% rather than 80%. You’ll be up for LMI and it will be harder to find + cf. But no doubt you’ll get there!
As for No 2, this should be possible in 1-2 years, unless you get growth in #1 and can use some of the equity as a deposit so can buy it sooner.
Regards, Peter
According to Lomas (How to Create an income for life, p 114)
NT, WA and Qld have an offer and acceptance form. There are helpful paragraphs on purchasing properties in each state in the preceding pages of that book.Don’t quote me on this, but I did read/hear somewhere that these forms can be obtained from newsagents, post offices or REA.
Or if you’ve already bought a place in one of those states, maybe some carful work with correction fluid and a photocopier (or scanner/printer) to produce a blank form might be in order!
Peter
For #1, I would use something like the following figures:
Income:
$110pw x 48 wks = $5280pa
Expenditure:
Rates $1100 p/a
Body corp $320 p/a
add Insurance $300 p/a (contents & Landlords)
add Maint allowance $600 p/a
add Prop Mgr (10%) $550 p/aTotal Non-loan costs: $2870 p/a
OK, now to loan costs. Assuming you were buying for cashflow and not expecting capital gain, I’d question the merit of going interest only.
$60k P&I 30yrs @ 6.57% ie $4584pa
Total Income: $5280 pa
Total Costs: $7454 paTotal Loss: $2174 (ie $181 pm)
Tax deductions might reduce this to $1500 or so assuming you have other income.
Even if you can claim building depreciation or furnish the property (for higher rent) it would be hard going to get a positive result, even after tax.
Regards, Peter
Originally posted by mobilemortgage:
My children like most today are educated academically but the vast majority are not educated in a financial sense, this is where we as parents can instill into our children our knowledge of wealth creation or Kiyosaki (rich dad poor dad) type of mindset, After all, most of us at one time or another have wished we had this information/knowledge at an earlier stage in life, our children tend to inherit our political and religious beliefs, then why not our strategies for wealth creation and a better life alsoStrongly Agree!!! Values (led by example, not by lecture) are most important!
It’s an uphill battle to change a bad habit or mindset than reinforce a good one.
Greg Smith’s ‘Unlock your money personality’ says there are three main money personalities:
1. Spender (borrow for consumer items)
2. Cautious (scrimper, saver & turn off the lights please)
3. Savvy (ie educated investor)I was fortunate in being brought up 2. and trying to move towards 3. I am eternally thankful that I was not raised a 1. as the shift to 3 would have been much harder, as 2 will at least guarantee some capital to start your investments, whereas 1. won’t.
Regards, Peter
Geraldton may have some room to move, but it will never be as expensive as Busselton, Mandurah, etc.
Rents are about the lowest in WA and average income is quite low, so yields will never be great.
I agree with Risky’s summation on the situation up there. The market is clearly moving up after being undervalued for a while.
A place I know (2br duplex half in Bluff Pt near beach and shops) was advertised for $82k and had been on the market for approx 3 mths. It was bought in Sept 2003 for $78.5k.
The property is part of a group of 5 – with 3 villas & a duplex pair.
One of the villas (which was furnished but same apart from much smaller backyard) was put onto the market in Jan 2004 for $94k. It sold quickly for $90k sometime that month to an eastern states investor. Even though this place was furnished, and the duplex half wasn’t, it should have been worth less as the land component was smaller and there were neigbours on both sides.
A similar duplex unit in the same street was put on the market for $90k, and is probably gone by now.
Based on this would be fair to say that there has probably been cap growth of approx 10% in 6 mths.
My PM was saying that eastern states investors were active buying sight unseen. Some were expecting $160pw from their $60-70k houses in Rangeway. But $120-130pw was more realistic (if you could get a tenant as there were many vacant houses there).
I looked there myself and though some streets in Rangeway with their brick/tile houses looked like an average 1970s outer suburb (with fewer green lawns) many locals didn’t want to rent there and PMs confirm vacancy is higher there.
Try searching as there’s been a fair bit of discussion on Geraldton in the last 12 mths.
Regards, Peter
Originally posted by Adofunk:I’ll finish by stating again: There are 60k positive cash-flow properties out there, you just need to hone your skills in identifying them.
Excellent! You’ve demonstrated that those sorts of deals exist, which you can count as an achievement.
But the real skill is finding decent cashflows in towns that haven’t had years or decades of falling populations.
How do your favoured areas of SA stack up as far as population trends, vacancies and a sustainable long-term future go?
If those figures aren’t good, maybe it’s wise to build in a risk margin – eg for your $120pw rental, pay only $40k max, not $60k?
Regards, Peter
Jan Somers has a comparison between the two approaches in her ‘More Wealth’ book.
Her overall conclusion was that both can work equally well, but one or the other method might be more appropriate for different people, different ages and different incomes.
Regards, Peter
Originally posted by MortgageHunter:
>I think you have taken an extreme view.
Maybe it is extreme, but I thought I’d give Huey a con as the answers so far were supportive.
Another con I didn’t think of before was family politics, jealousies, etc which can flare up with money. If one child gets help, shouldn’t the sibling(s) get equal consideration, etc? Thus I would lean towards caution when it comes to large amounts.
>Helping out and giving a property are two different >things.
True. It’s up to each family to decide what’s best for them – full assistance, a little assistance or none at all.
As Huey says there are pros and cons, and though I’m glad I didn’t get parental assistance when I bought my IPs (which are considerably cheaper than the average Sydney house) others might welcome the opportunity.
>How does a young couple buy in places like Sydney now >on their own?
Difficult, but I hesitate to say it’s impossible.
Maybe they’d be better off renting in Sydney and buying IPs elsewhere first? Really depends on their aims.
Saving 10% deposit ($50k on a $500k house) should take about 5-6 years for a working couple (saving $5k pa each). Then there are other costs. Tough but not prohibitive.
>Did you teach your children to swim by leaving them >alone in the water or were you there taking some of >the weight until they could go on their own?
From what I remember swimming instructors would almost hold you under, while I would have much preferred to be left alone (feet on bottom, making a few token splashes)!
As to what I’d do if a parent, well I don’t know yet ; )
Regards, Peter
Originally posted by MortgageHunter:
What are the cons for helping family out? As long as they are responsible I don’t see any.I can.
The child will never have the satisfaction of being able to say that ‘I did it all myself’.
Thus in their own mind the legitimacy of achievement will be devalued compared to if they raised all their capital themselves.
About the best help parents can give is lead by example and thus inculcate the values that are conducive to saving money, investing, self-reliance and generosity.
What the child does with this is up to them and should not be subject to parental pressure.
Regards, Peter