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I conceded and sent the sheet to Dave Ward after all. I will learn in time but for now I just want to know the outcome.
Freckle wrote:See this thread https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/finance/4346478Initial investigation looks as though thats perfect, thanks so much for that.
Guys that is exactly the sort of thing I am looking for. The formula for the interest only mortgage is simple enough to understand so I'll implement that myself and try and digest the other one too and if I get stuck I will definitely send it your way and as for the link I have not had the chance to look at that yet but I will.
So that is the first issue addressed so secondly how far off was I in my list of probable deductions. Are there any more I should be considering? How about loan set up costs perhaps. I understand that not all costs will be possible to implement into a formula based spreadsheet for a template but it would be nice to have an idea what to expect.
For those who have not talked with me you may gather I am very new to investing, having spent all of my life so far simply working for money, I would like to change that so that money works for me so all your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.
Paul
As I understand you can buy a plot of land and build to defense housing specifics and then rent it to them with the same perks and as a result you could get all the full depreciation of a new build which I have just learnt about and but in your chosen area so long as it suits the defense. If this is true you could avoid the hang up of having to stay with defense and its systems if you decided it wasn't for you.
I got that information from this video below. A guy talks on defense housing and his success on it.
Firstly, thanks very much for being encouraging more questions. I have used forums for many things in the past on different subjects and have always felt that there is someone at the other end thinking "AAAAARRRGGGHHH, have you still not got this?, I don't want to explain it again" so thanks again.
Your absolutely right I had been doing my workings out using a repayment mortgage which of course makes the outgoing a whole lot more expensive than an interest only mortgage. I have only really recently understood the value and the reasons behind having interest only mortgages. My main goal in the past was to own outright as many properties as possible to have a great retirement. My thought was even if I own two plus my own home outright, putting that with my pension will give me a good retirement. Now that I understand that the interest on an IP is considered a loss ( I hate the term tax deductible as it makes it sound like the loss comes out of your tax rather than being deducted from your earnings before the correct amount of tax is paid, so still a loss…) and that the interest on my own property would not be, I can really see the benefit to structuring your debt in a way that is cost efficient and although my goal is still the same, I want to retire comfortably at the very least, I now have a better plan to carry that forward and achieve it.
Because I am new to Australia and have never owned a house here yet, I have no idea yet what exactly I will need to factor in to the equation. I am currently in a rental and I pay my own water bill in here and rent and pool maintenance. I have only recently heard the term strata fee too. I need to know exactly what I will be paying out when the time comes and how to factor that into my plans. I have no desire to own a negative geared property at the moment simply because, as I understand it, that type of arrangement generally relies on capital gain on renovations and area rises etc and also being able to spot a house being sold under market value and picking an area. I don't posses these skills yet but I'm sure with experience I'll develop them. Thankfully at the moment I am in a financial position to make mistakes without them wiping me out but I don't know how long that will last.
I have no particular property in mind as yet and before I go into the investment world again I will be buying myself a house to live in with either the thought of renting it out when I decide to move on up or staying put and buying something else. To give you an idea of the figures I have been working with I had been looking at the defense housing with the fixed sale prices and fixed rent prices. As I think I said at the beginning of this thread, I liked the idea of them for the lack of maintenance and I had been doing my calculations using repayment mortgages. A particular house I think I was looking at was as I recall $440k with a rent of $440 per week. I know they charge a nice 13.5% for management fees so costs are as follows…. I think….
$440 per week x 52 = $22880
Mortgage at $418k LTR 5% so house value at $440k on a repayment mortgage at 5% interest over 30 years giving $2243 per month of which $1741.67 is interest. Interest for the year is $20900.04
Rent per year $22880 – 13.5% management fees = $19791.20. Divide that by 12 months = $1649.26
I am in a high tax bracket so lets say for example and ease that I was earning $150k per year. I know that to work things out I need to take my $150k and add my rent ( after management fees in this example to keep it simple)$150k + $19791.20 = $169791.20. from this I need to deduct my interest for the year. $16791.20 – $20900.04 = $148891.16 so I will pay less tax because I have had a loss.
On $150k I would have paid $43446.63 according to my tax calculator but with the less earnings I will be paying $43036.36 so I will have saved $410.27 in tax but I will have also been paying a repayment mortgage at $501.33 per month ($2243 – interest of $1741.67) $501.33 per month is $6015.96 – the $410.27 I have saved in tax leaves $5605.69 as my payment for the house per year so if I have done my calculations correct I will be buying a house outright with few problems for $467.14 per month or $5605.68 per year or $168170.40 for the entire 30 years plus the cost of the deposit and any set up fees. Is that wrong?
I am sure that I have left out a good few thing which I am not yet aware of but that's my basic workings out using a few apps for tax and mortgage calculations etc. If anyone can point out my mistakes or things that I have not thought of I would be very very grateful because with good mentoring and guidance you guys and your experience really can change the lives of my wife and kids and help us achieve a few of our life ambitions. Remember I am working out using a repayment mortgage.
Hoping you can help and hoping I have not fallen asleep at my ramblings. Thanks in advance.. Paul Oh and just to round off, I have no idea about depreciation yet and how it works. I understand its the value of what fixtures and fittings and what they have lost in the years counted as a loss but that's about my extent of knowledge on that subject.
Thanks Jamie, that makes a lot of sense but doing the maths my way it doesn't come out as much difference either way unless I am missing something. Lets see if I can explain my point the way I understand it without making this too confusing.
If you do as you say in the article and pay down the loan to $100k this means you are now bringing in $500 per week ( or $26k per year ) on a $100k debt. The $100k is costing you $7k per year in interest. In my job I earn well so lets say a figure of $150k. We need to add my wages to my property income $150k + $26k rent per year then deduct the interest on the loan at %7k giving a total of $169k. My wages are taxed at 48% so I need to deduct 48% from my extra $19k leaving me with $9880 extra money using this method. but I will be paying $14k extra per year on the $200k used as deposit on my PPOR so $14k – $9880 = $4120. $4120 will be my loss using this method
Second method. 52 x $500 = $26k + $150k = $176k – $21k = $155k. The $5k extra taxed at 48% leaves me with $2600 after tax and I am also not paying the $14k per year of interest on my PPOR. $2600 up using this method.
While typing it out I realised that the second way is far better and hopefully it is typed in a way that it can help others too. IF someone could check that over and tell me that I understand what Jamie was trying to highlight that would be great. I don't know how I thought that they would be similar figures now but it made sense at the time. Confusing subject when you are new to all this but I will understand all of this well in years to come.
Thanks again for helping.
Paul
Catalyst wrote:Hi, the house won't cost you $74,880 to buy a $400,000 house. That's how much on top of the $400,000 to buy it.Hi Catalyst. I was basing that figure on how much of my own money I would be using to buy it based on the fact that the tenant would be repaying a repayment mortgage for the rest of the money.
So I need to understand the financing of investing better. I know I will be paying roughly 8% for a management company, the interest on the loan is a loss and any profit made is taxable at my marginal rate. I also know that depreciation is involved but I don't know how this works to well yet.
I have asked the question somewhere that am I better off paying extra on my domestic mortgage or using that money to run an investment property at a loss because of negative gearing although when I asked the question I had in mind that I would set up the mortgage on the IP to be a repayment. I can see now why that setting up an IP with a repayment mortgage is not a smart move unless you don't want to invest any more and just want the mortgage gone. With an interest only mortgage you have a greater chance of making a profit and then using that money to pay off your own mortgage quicker. Using the tools on an app I recently got I can see that just $400 a month extra on a $400k property over 30 years with 5% deposit can make a huge difference to the amount of time you owe on that property. It takes ten years of the time and saves you $132,492 in interest.
What else should I be considering as part of my costing and due diligence?
Hi Richard
thanks for your comments. I'm interested to know why it is that you are investing in the UK if you are residing in Oz. As I think I said above, my current rental property is in the UK and I hadn't really considered another one there although they are cheaper there and would suit my current aversion to risk and lack of knowledge about how to make it profitable and I also know the market better there too.
So to summarize, a negatively geared house basically means you have to top it up out of your own pocket and you can claim that as a loss of earning and reduce your tax liability. A positively geared house turns a profit and neutral is in between the two. If i'm right then of course, the + flow is better despite paying more tax so I don't understand why people are so keen to -gear a house as a loss is still a loss despite paying less tax…
How do I work out yeild on a property? Is it simply the %age if its own value that it pays back in rent each year. $400k house earning $20k per year is 5% yeild?
Thanks again
Paul
Catalyst wrote:wilko1 wrote:But as I said if the PPOR you are living in now will become an IP STOP paying it down otherwise you will have another IP with no deductable debt.
Hi again as a newbie. This little quote reflects my inexperience as I would have said that if you get rid of the principle as well as the interest you eventually end up with a cash flow positive property as it has no mortgage on it. Why is it better to keep the mortgage and the debt? I understand that the interest on the debt is tax deductible but is it really more efficient than wiping the mortgage completely? Could someone highlight with some figures how this works for me please? I have a post, my first question actually related to this asking about negative gearing and how it works.
cbarry wrote:Yes, you're right Freckle, I don't have a complete understanding of either, hence why I am doing my research reading, talking to various people and interacting on this forum. I am definitely ensuring I get an understanding of "The game" , to extent that my broker told me to stop over analysing everything and just simply buy something. I also have accountant, mortgage broker and solicitor that I am using, and they have all been a wealth of information. Thanks for the advice!At some point you just have to make a start. You will learn a lot quicker and lessons will be learnt better when it's real money. You will make mistakes, fact, just learn from them and get better and better.