Kinda funny really I'm looking at doing the course early this year and plan on using it as an extention of my builders license of course will save me some $$$ on certifing my own pool (maybe?). 

I will not even start on the $300 bit there are many others professions that charge way over the top in rates just another jumping on the gravy train. 

Brian
 

You have a few things to consider. 1. Water/mud etc behind the sheeting this should be removed and the timbers allowed to dry and the timbers cleaned so not to develop mould which may come back and cause you issues later. 2. The sparkie doing my works said he just replaces all powerpoints, switches, safety switches etc he says he then has no issues with faulty switches from corrossion later. 
3. The bathroom how much is going to be behind or under the bath? 
4. When and if you take the sheeting off the sheeting will most likely be asbestos, you can only legally remove 10sqm without having a lisence.
5. Moisture content of structural timbers this should be below 16 before resheeting is carried out.
 6. Waterproofing will or should be checked.
7. Before sanding any floors these also will need to dry out and this can take a few months unless you can organise proper dryers.
8. If taking plasterboard off go at least 300mm above the water line and remove from there down, in some cases easier to remove all wall linings. 
 
Go to either BSA web site or Master Builders Qld they have some good info on how to do flood repairs.
 
Brian    

Not saying this is right or wrong, but an increase in the current situation will be as popular as a "nail in the foot" with many finding out they are not covered for flood or more the fact (Riverine flood damage).
 
Brian

The fact you get underground firing, I would now be looking at a local engineer and having a bit of a chat and see if there is any major issue they have with undergound firing on jobs they do, also ask how much to design a footing / fence. Have your plan or property plan to show I have never had an issue with getting an engineer to have a chat most seem helpfull. 

This may seem an overkill but be nothing if the wall collasped and injured / killed someone, a designed footing would seem rather cheap then.

Not trying to scare you just consider "what if" 

Brian  

In general not a big issue to construct. Apart from insuring you are on the boundary, and the neighbour has signed paperwork they are happy with the design (may save disputes later) and meeting costs, depending on soil type in your area you may need a designed footing and wall, the council may have they soil type for your location failing that a soil test maybe considered. Contact council and check on any requirements IE height being one. Also don't forget expansion joints I think they are at 6m centres (sorry would have to look up again)

Digging the trench I will assume it is level site, dig the trench the width you want and the depth (600 x 400). you will need trench mesh (3 bar) and some links to join them together size approx (500 x 300) at 600 or 900 centres (depending on what your soil type requires).

Then you will need some deformed bar bent at right angle one end (concrete end) and tied to the trench mesh or as required by the specification. Then trench mesh is held in the trench by timber or what ever laying accross the trench and the trench mesh is tied to the to these boards and suspending the trench mesh to the required height. 

The finished height of the concrete can be organised by using stakes or left over deformed bar and tapped into the trench (usually up the middle) to the finished height of the concrete this way you pour concrete to this height and a quick screed between stakes (pull out any timber stakes) once your level is achieved. You have your footing installed. Sit back admire with a coldie

If its a step footing, because your have a fall in the land front to back of the fence, just dig the footing down the depth of the block you are using 200 mm high of course your trench mesh will also need to be stepped to match.
 
Hope this makes sense if you need some more info or drawing to better discribe the above please ask.

Brian 

Whats your brother say?

Brian

Hi,
 
I don't know if you plan to buy reno and hold or sell so I'm not going to go into figures on whether its worth it or not, but I agree the romance can soon leave if a few hurdles come up which can have a cost blow out.

In saying that if your set on going ahead I would be very specific what you want to do. It would also seem you will need to paint the place and when you do this usually the power / light switches look shi% and are also best to replace so all looks new. What I'm trying to say is look at each room in turn and jot down what is to be done and what is to be replaced, this includes the above rooms, to save $$$ don't go changing the plumbing within reason in the kitchen, bathroom etc this will help keep the cost down. When going around measure the bathroom and kitchen so you can contact cabinetmakers etc and get estimates.  

At the end add them all up and add say 5% for buffer.

This is a very basic approach and there are lots to consider before you take the plunge. Of course it can be very rewarding to turn a dump into a diamond (so to speak).

This may give you some prices as I have listed mine on my reno its on the last page https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/property-investing/value-adding/4332210

Thanks
Brian