did you know that as a WBC staff member that additional lending benefits are being able to borrow 90%LVR without MI if the loan is PIF or you can borrow 85% on loc without MI.
It may pay to do the sums as the interest saving you make may not outweigh the cost of MI , for at least the first couple of yrs (depending on cost of MI). Then you can refinance over to another lender to obtain cheaper rates and hopefully you will have had some capital growth when you do and no MI to worry about.
Just a thought
ps just a little nervous as is my first posting even though I have been haunting the site for some time. [worried]
As I understand the bank looks at those figures and if falls within range then they will use. Unfortunately they don’t tell staff what the percentage is in case we use it for evil purposes [}]
If under 80% LVR and reasonable EMV presented you shouldn’t have too many problems.
Another thing to note that even if you do need a val and area is ok and APM(according to the bank) does not confirm your estimate they may just do a curbside val. In this case I would always recommend you give as much info about inside and backyard as poss to maximise the val that comes back.
I am curious to know why you would want to be so certain on the val up front. I am always looking at recent sales in my area and have a farily good understanding of what the EMV on my properties are and that of course is free. If the bank needs to do vals first one is free and any additional are charged accordingly and even then is still cheaper through the bank than going to the valuer direct.
Important to note that Westpac will not always use APM. It depends on the deal if MI or area located or as most often APM does not confirm customers EMV (estimated market value).
Depends on what you are seeking to achieve by having multiple accounts under the one LOC.
Do you want the ability to change limits between LOC’s etc??
Westpac have a product that you can have up to two LOC’s and you can change limits between the two but you need to have a particular home or investment loan in order to do so. The reason I am not stating the particular product is because I don’t want to appear to be touting for anyone in particular here as I am unsure if appropriate.
I am happy to help you with Westpac’s product info as that is what I know best but in order to do that would need to understand exactly what you are trying to acheive.
Regards
Verity
PS Verity is an investor that just happens to work for a bank always happy to answer questions relating to the bank’s products and what you can do with them and sometimes point people in the right direction to resolve issues but here I am investor first, bank person second [:p]
PS if you are concerned about the payout figure of your loan you can call Westpac and they can give you an indicitive payout figure immediately and the staff are also able to assist you with costing what you want to do, if you want to do it with Westapc.
I am new to this site so this is officially my first post.
Believe it or not I actually work for Westapc dealing with home loans.
If the loan is a standard premium option (and was not a 1yr guarantee rate originally) and you want to refinance you will pay the balance of the loan, any interest accrued at the time of settlement in addition to $150 settlement fee.
If you have lending in excess of $150k there is a package called premier advantage that costs $300 per year and this would mean you can recieve interest rate discounts and other savings and it would cost you $0 application to set up your LOC. Although I agree with other posters here it is not the best product for everyone.
When looking at refinancing to another lender remember to check whether you will need to pay stamp duty on the mortgage again (if you are anywhere else but NSW), along with other costs to refinance. Sometimes it is a cheaper option to stay with the lender your with.
When looking at refinancing I look at the following:
Costs to leave, stamp duty paid on mortgage again (if applicable), coasts to establish loan elsewhere.Once I have added up the total cost I then look at what I am moving into and whether the savings/benefits of the new lender going to cover or make it worthwhile to change over. (I hope this makes sense)
Just in case I get any unsual repsonses from other people because I work for the bank in question it is important you know that this is the advice I would give anyone I know irrespective of the financial institution they are with.
It always pays to do your sums first because you may not always be better off at the end of it.