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  • Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Sorry Dloy.. I’ve changed the links – the new video is from youtube and changed the photos for the actual locations on google maps – pretty spooky actually :)

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    It’s a kind of a “how much will it cost to fix my car?” question. It really depends on your records.

    Most accountants will charge an hourly rate for a rental schedule. The schedules really aren’t that complicated, and if you keep a spreadsheet of your costs it really shouldn’t take your accountant more than half an hour for a single property.

    That said, some client’s with large portfolios ( > 10 properties) are extremely well organised and it only takes a few hours to prepare their ITR’s. Other’s organisation (record keeping) skills are particularly average. When you have to chase down costs (phoning agents, body corporates, etc) and ‘extrapolate’ for clients with large portfolios the job can easily take a couple of days.

    My advice is to keep good records (a spreadsheet is best) and make sure your accountant charges you an hourly rate.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    The usual rules will apply.

    As regards the motor vehicle the 4 methods of calculating your deduction are available – though your probably only eligible for 2 of them, and the rate per km will probably give you the best deduction. You could use the log book method, but it’s unlikely you would get a reasonable percentage.

    As regards the trailer, treat it the same as your other tools and equipment, estimate a percentage to which it’s related to the rental, and apply that to annual depreciation. (and be prepared to justify the percentage).

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Sorry stasani, I dont really understand your question?

    What do you mean by “apparently my provider charges differently?”

    and, whats stopping you including a flat charge for weekly rent and power / bills ??

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Basically no. Tenants and homeowners pay the same amount per kilowatt hour.

    The power / gas / phone co does ask if your renting when you call them to have services connected. But that’s only so they can verify with the agent that you actually live at the address your having the power connected to.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi Glenn,

    Luke is right about the offset account – dont use a redraw.

    Re your wife’s lower taxable income, you can not claim her costs in your tax return, even though you’ve paid for them.

    The best way to explain this situation is by example. Say for three consecutive years her salary is $50k, $0k, $50k, and in each of those years her rental loss is $10k. Her taxable income would then be $40k, -$10k, $30k. The taxable income in the final year is only $30k, because you can claim a negative taxable income from the prior year.

    So the idea is that you get the benefit in the long run. However, it never works out quite so neatly… say for example her taxable income for three years is $50k, $15k, $50k, and rental losses of $10k for each year. Her taxable income for each year would be $40k, $5k, $40k. For the middle year there’s no tax payable on $15k, so she must claim the loss in that year but will get no taxable advantage.

    I wouldn’t advise you to transfer the title in your own name, it would probably cost you as much as the tax advantage you would gain, and it might cause problems in the future.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi saratoga… welcome aboard

    The way I see it this forum is probably the best place to “get some knowledge under your belt” – so please don’t apologize for asking questions.

    In theory the cost base for CGT on the front block would be it’s current market value if it were already subdivided. I say “theory” because there’s always a range of what something’s really worth. The tax office will accept pretty much any logical approach to estimating the property’s worth at the time of purchase. In your case 2 or 3 market appraisals from real estate agents will probably suffice. The thing is.. you dont need to get these now, after you subdivide and you list the place for sale, you can ask the selling agent to give you a back dated appraisal. You basically want the highest value possible, the higher the cost, the lower your capital gain.

    Re: question 2, the sale of the property will be subject to capital gains tax regardless of whether you subdivide today, or in 7 years time, and it’s treatment for capital gains tax would be the same. There’s no PPORE on that portion of your land because it will be sold seperately to your residence.

    Questions 3 through 5 I’ll leave to someone more knowledgeable in such things :)

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    In my humble opinion… The federal government has encouraged negative gearing because it’s cheaper to give out the tax breaks than it is to fund public housing projects. That said, there isn’t any doubt amongst economists that the tax breaks are fueling value growth, to the point where property values over recent decades have far outstripped growth in the average wage. If the trend continues over the next few decades, the disparity between housing costs and the average wage will cause a housing crisis. The federal govt cannot continue with the tax breaks, only to face a shortage of funding for govt housing projects in 20 years. It really has to be one or the other.

    It’s exceedingly unlikely that negative gearing will exist in anything like it’s current form in 2020.

    The ATO isn’t going to make an announcement like “as of 1.7.2011 we’re abolishing negative gearing deductions”. The “backlash” would be inconsequential compared to the crash that would inevitably follow.

    That said, the tax office has learned some lessons over the last 20 years and they are not without their wiles. Take for example, their approach in recent years to work related expenses. First they give you an automatic deduction of $1000, then a few years later they bump that up to $1500, and then finally they’ll say “we’re simplifying the tax system by removing WRE’s, and adjusting the income tax rates so everyone get’s the equivalent of a $2000 deduction for WRE’s”. The end result is that WRE’s are abolished, and in return we’ve really been given nothing – the steady reductions in income tax were planned since the introduction of GST.

    So I think we’ll see small changes over time. Initially reductions in the effectiveness of negative gearing for taxpayers with high income, or a large portfolio. Followed by more aggressive reductions complimented by more targeted tax breaks (similar to the NRAS). Think of the NRAS as a pilot scheme – tax breaks for investors in affordable property.

    It’s easy for a bunch of us investors to stand around saying “oh they can’t possibly abolish negative gearing”. But I think it’s pretty much already happened, it’s just that we haven’t noticed yet. You might even say “it’s all over bar the shouting”.

    As I said, just my unqualified, skewed, misinformed opinion.. probably wrong.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi gomez,

    The concept that your up against is that whilst it’s easy to give an ‘average’ amount of depreciation for a property of a particular value, giving an estimate of depreciation for a particular property requires a lot more information. For example, if I asked you to estimate my weight given that I’m a 30yo male, the only answer you could give would be a guess at the average weight of 30yo males. It’s the answer most likely to be accurate, but unfortunately.. a pretty useless answer. In your spreadsheet, your primary goal is comparison, so the question your really asking is “who is heaviest out of these two 30yo males?” – which really can’t be answered without more information.

    The online calculators give you an average, not an estimate. They’re not based on any ATO guidelines. But if it’s an average your looking for, then go with something like:
    1yo house: 2% (of purchase price)
    3or4yo house: 1%
    10yo house: 0.5%

    Whilst those percentages might generate a believable figure, it really wont have anything to do with the house that your considering.

    There’s plenty of experienced, knowledgeable quantity surveyors here on these forums, who could give you a lot of really good reasons why a formula like this will do more harm than good.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi ALSK,

    Sounds like a tough situation.

    The agent can’t really do anything for you, because your not on the lease. Your best bet is to convince (read coerce) your ex into breaking the lease and recommending you as the new tenant. If you play the game right the agent is very likely to let you sign a new lease in your own name.

    You’ll be able to force your ex-flatmate’s hand because as you currently stand, your paying his rent.. and he can’t afford to pay it himself. Just say you want your own place, and if he doesn’t want to give you the lease on your flat then you’ll move out. If you did – he’d have to break his lease anyway, so he’ll just say yes.

    If he does agree, your not really out of the woods. Legally he’s breaking his lease, and you have to apply for a new lease. That said, in a break lease the agent really has to take on the first available tenant, provided there’s no good reason not to. But there’s still a chance your application may be rejected. That said, most agents I know of a pretty lazy, they’ll just sign you up with a new agreement, and charge the owner an inspection fee, letting fee and advertising for doing nothing at all.

    Good luck.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    @mr5o1
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    Well..

    If it was transferred on 1 June @ a market value of $360k, then you would incur a capital loss of $14k ($7k each) which isn’t deductible against your other income, only against any other (or future) capital gains.

    So then if you sold in 2 years for $400k. There’d be a capital gain of $40k, ($36k for one of you, and $4k for the other) So whoever has the 90% share works out their capital gain as (36 – 7) / 2 = 14.5k – taxed at marginal rates. Whoever has the 10% share ends up with a $3k capital loss (4 – 7) sitting in their tax return until they have another cgt event.

    If it’s negatively geared then I guess your looking at putting the 90% in your name to claim as much of the deduction as you can. Thing is – if it’s only going to be for a few years, then how does the advantage your getting compare to the disadvantage of having to declare most of the capital gain in your name – in the higher tax bracket?

    Re: confirmation about stamp duty. I’m not sure in VIC but in WA i’d ring the office of state revenue. Stamp duty is a state tax. They’ll give you a solid answer.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi Daniel,

    Whilst ‘prima facie’ it appears to be just a ‘percentage change’ – from a tax perspective your selling the property to yourselves. So whilst some states will give you a concession on stamp duty, the transfer is still a capital gains tax event.

    Because no cash will change hands the cgt up to the day the property is transferred cgt would be calculated based on the market value of the property on the day of transfer. That would be payable in the tax return for the year in which the property is transferred.

    Later, when you sell the property the market value used in the above calculation would be the ‘cost base’ for cgt rather than the original purchase value.

    Is the property positive geared? If it’s negative geared and your transferring the 90% to your name to claim the loss against your salary, then it will catch up with you because you’ll pay the majority of cgt when you sell.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi Billy,

    You need to determine your UK income according to UK tax law. So depreciation would have to be calculated according to UK tax law. Unfortunately you can not apply Australian Tax Law (or concepts thereof) in determining your foreign source income, the amount needs to be determined according to the relevant local laws in the country of origin, and then the total amount of FSI is included in your tax return and subject to australian tax law.

    Having just had a quick look at it I think your out of luck. Looks like you can claim ‘capital allowances’ for repairs and renovations, but I can not find any mention of claiming any part of the purchase price. there’s also a wear and tear allowance for furnished properties.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    It’s a common misconception amongst accountants that property investing can not be considered a business activity. It can. It’s just that it’s unusual in the current climate, for an investor to meet the criteria.

    I’d claim it, but expect the ATO to question the deduction, when they do… write to them (an accountants letterhead wouldn’t hurt) and describe your activity in the context of the following 8 questions:
    does the activity have a significant commercial purpose or character?
    * does the taxpayer have more than a mere intention to engage in business?
    * is there an intention to make a profit or a genuine belief that a profit will be made? Will the activity be profitable?
    * is there repetition and regularity in the activity? i.e., how often is the activity engaged in? How much time does the taxpayer spend on the activity?
    * is the activity of the same kind and carried on in a similar way to that of the ordinary trade?
    * is the activity organised in a businesslike manner?
    * what is the size or scale of the activity?
    * is the activity better described as a hobby, a form of recreation or a sporting activity?

    Unfortunately this is the sort of question for which there is no black and white answer, if you ring the ATO they’ll just say ‘no’. But in a self-compliance tax system, it’s up to you to understand the legislation, interpret it, and apply it to your own situation. So in these situations you simply lodge your tax return, and be prepared to explain your application of australian tax law.

    Some interesting reading:
    law.ato.gov.au/atolaw/view.htm?docid=SAV/00237831/00002
    law.ato.gov.au/atolaw/view.htm?locid=’TXR/TR9711/NAT/ATO’&PiT=99991231235958#P23
    law.ato.gov.au/atolaw/view.htm?locid=’ITR/IT2423/NAT/ATO’&PiT=99991231235958

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    You’ll definitely be able to get your hands on a “proper” agreement free of charge. Although you do need one which is applicable to your state, as I believe (not sure) the residential tenancies act differs state by state.

    For example, here in WA all property agents use the ‘stock’ forms from reiwa (real estate institute of wa) I dont think they’ll let you download a contract from their website for free – but you can buy them from newsagents (call them and they’ll tell you which). But if you google it, you can find online copies.

    That said, we also have the department of commerce (WA) which offer pretty much the exact same.. as well as a plethora of really good advice on the subject.

    Really, your looking for two forms.. the application/offer (like this: http://www.olifents.com.au/rentalform.pdf ) and the residential tenancy agreement (like this: http://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/ConsumerProtection/PDF/Forms/RT24A_Dec_09_amended.pdf ) but as I said.. you’ll need to track down your local equivalent.

    Also.. have a good read through something like this: http://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/ConsumerProtection/PDF/Publications/Renting_out_your_property_2010.pdf

    A word of caution – plan for peace and prepare for war… Make sure you keep exemplary records. Most DIY property managers think that waving a signed copy of a lease agreement infront of a magistrate is a bit of a solve-all magic bullet. But if there is a disagreement, it often comes down to a battle of clerical skills. Record dates and times of any correspondence or action, no matter how small, put things in writing, issue receipts, all that jazz.

    good luck!

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Hi Terry,

    Question 1:
    In brief.. it’s complicated. Usually where you have a depreciation schedule prepared, to get the maximum advantage in the short term you would use a diminishing value method. In the case of your property, that time has passed. However you can still claim 2.5% of the cost of the capital works every year, for the first 40 years of the life of the building. You don’t need a depreciation schedule prepared to in order to claim it, provided you can accurately substantiate the construction cost yourself. Doing so would allow you to claim a tax deduction of $75000 x 2.5% = $1875 every year.

    Your accountant is correct in that claiming the capital works depreciation means you pay more in CGT, but many accountants don’t realise that the total benefit (nearly) always works to your advantage, because of the interaction of the 50% discount.

    For example, if you sold today, then your net capital gain would be worked out as:
    ( Sale Value – Cost ) x discount = (320000 – 115000) x 50% = 102,500
    For the sake of simplicity.. lets just calculate the tax at a flat 30%.. so you’d be looking at $30,750 in tax on that gain.

    Now, if you had claimed 1 years worth of depreciation along the way, your gain would be calculated as:
    ( Sale Value – (Cost – Dereciation)) x discount = (320000 – (115000 – 1875)) x 50% = $103,437
    So.. @ 30% tax that would be $31,031 in tax on that gain. But… in the year you claimed the depreciation you would’ve gotten a tax advantage of $562. So all things considered your in front by $281 because you claimed that 1 years depreciation.

    Finally.. to really complicate things, as you know you pay a higher rate where your taxable income is higher (like when you sell a property). So if you did the above calculation where your Taxable income from year to year is, say, $20,000 and then you sell the property and declare a ~$100k net gain, you may not end up with an advantage. So like I said.. there’s “nearly” always an advantage – It needs to be considered every year.

    Admittedly after all that $281 a year doesn’t sound like much does it. heheh.

    Question 2:
    I’d have to read up to give you a really good answer. But the basic idea is that where you’ve claimed GST credits during construction, you adjust your BAS by one fifth of the GST you claimed, for every year the property is rented.

    So if you claimed $20k during construction, then every three months the property is rented you have to pay back $1000. The idea being that after 5 years, you would have paid back all the gst you claimed, and the property would be ‘input taxed’.

    There’s a special ‘adjustments’ section on the BAS for doing exactly that. (I think?!)

    Question 3:
    Personal choice but I wouldn’t bother. Investors know it’s a fairly simple thing to organise, and an owner-occupier wont care.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Oh ok.. well admittedly:
    $10k repairs x 7% interest x (6/52weeks) x marginal rates = not much
    So if you didn't bother to claim the interest for that 6 week period it wouldn't make that much difference. But… The refinance is going to split the loan into it's different purposes right? So the balances of each purpose needs to be determined anyway, and part of that process is determining how much interest relates to each purpose. So in the process of the refinance you'll end up knowing how much interest is deductible against those repairs anyway.

    A multi-purpose loan can be a bit of a mess for someone to work out, but that said an extra drawing of $10k for a purpose that already exists in the loan isn't really going to make the job any more difficult.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    I'm not sure I really understand. I dont think it will make any difference at all when you draw the funds, because taxdeductibility of the interest is based on the purpose you borrowed the money for, not the asset the borrowings are secured against.

    The $10k your drawing is for repairs for another rental right? So the costs you pay with that $10k will be tax deductible, as will the interest you pay on it, regardless of whether it's secured against your PPOR or a rental, or whether it happens before or after the refinance.

    It's a bit of a headache for your accountant.. but I'm sure you already know all about that.

    Also.. I'm not sure what you mean by "work my deductions from the date it turned into an IP" ?

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    Well, hey – if the renovation is worth while then great, and yes the borrowings would be tax deductible.

    But if you do it with an aim to 'undo' the situation your in, then it just doesn't make sense. Your goal is to pay the least interest possible on your PPOR. Borrowing more to renovate the rental means you pay more tax deductible interest, but doesn't reduce the non-deductible interest you'll pay on the PPOR.

    The concept of negative gearing can become a bit of an obsession. But IMO paying an extra $3770 in interest just to save yourself $1131 in tax doesn't make much sense to me. The interest your paying -must- be balanced by capital growth or rent return.

    Whatever you choose to do, get an interest only loan + offset for your PPOR.. who knows when you'll decide to move and rent out your new PPOR

    The way I see it.. (and it's just my opinion of course) your options are:
    1. Just relax, whilst your situation isn't the best possible tax scenario, its still pretty good, loads of my clients would love to have an almost positively geared property to help them pay off their PPOR. Dont do the reno, use whatever surplus funds you have to build equity in your PPOR.
    2. If you absolutely cannot abide paying interest on your PPOR then sell the rental, pay the CGT, and use the equity to pay down some of your PPOR. Thereafter you can buy another rental and borrow 100% of the cost, secured against your PPOR.
    3. If your worried about the CGT, then buy another rental before you buy your PPOR, if you borrow 100% of the cost then the loss on that property will go a long way to offset the CGT you incur. Once you have that out of the way buy the PPOR.

    I realise none of these are particularly attractive 'golden bullet' options.. others may have better strategies for you.

    Profile photo of Mr5o1Mr5o1
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    I agree with scott..

    remember that cash doesn't need to be distributed but profit does, so if the trust makes a profit of $100k, the cash it's earned can sit in the trust's bank account, but that $100k profit is distributed in the tax form to the beneficiaries.

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