Thanks for joining in Terry and supplying good mortgage broker type advice.[]
James, ask everybody. In a booming market, such as we have had, the vendor can generally get their price the standard way, so probably would not be interested. It’s a common practice in America where they’ve had not so good times for a long time, and generally do things differently.
However, if and when things change, and the properties take much longer to sell, you might find a few willing takers. Ask private sales, real estate agents, everybody. It will take lots of no’s before you get a maybe, and probably quite a few maybe’s til you get a yes.
Then I would definitely get everything drawn up with a solicitor to cover both parties. If you are the borrower, and agree to a 1,2,3,5 year term etc., make sure you buy yourself a little time, and put an option to extend for a year for $1000 (or whatever fee you can negotiate). The last thing you want is for the payment to come due and not to have it.
Hey riffraff, your next star is only 18 posts away I think. Have a conversation with yourself in Forum Fun, or get on your SoapBox a few times, or just generally join in Forum Fun. You’ll get there!!
I read your post at 1 this morning, and decided to go to bed rather than answer it. I did understand your question though (I think).
As you will be buying and selling within 12 months, the CGT will just be treated as normal income, so can be offset by other expenses in the trust etc. Even if it is CGT (ie 12 months hold) you can still lower the income of the trust before distributing money (but check with your accountant BEFORE making any decisions)
Basically, if I really needed/wanted to sell my house, but didn’t need ALL of the money right away, and you were interested in buying it, could get a loan for say 80% easily, but had no deposit, we could possibly work out a deal.
For a $100K house (let’s add $5K for costs) you would need a loan of $80K plus cash of $25K to cover deposit and costs. You don’t have this $25K. I need $80K for whatever reason, and can wait for the $25K. Basically I ‘lend’ you the $25K at say, 10% interest over 3 years. You have just bought a house for ‘no money down’ but need to pay interest on both loans (unless we worked out a different arrangement on my loan, which can be done – anything can be done), and need to come up with $25K to pay to me at the end of those 3 years.
Hope this makes it clearer. If not, please ask specific questions so I don’t crap on and say lots of stuff, except what you want to hear.
Yep, even in one of the brochures ‘advertising’ why Buyer Ranged (the Pillings system – what a w#$%) says that you get more lookers if you have a range. Then it’s up to the agent to try and squeezed that extra amount from the buyers, and to also squeeze you down.
When I see a BER now, I just take about $10K off the top of the range and believe that’s what they want to get. Although in the recent ‘hot hot hot’ market, some prices achieved were well above that range.
I went to an open house the other day, and got a call from the agent the next day (Sunday) asking was I interested. I was looking for a friend, so I told her this. She told me then that a full price offer had been made the previous day, but that the owners hadn’t accepted it yet!! Wanted her to contact all prospects, and obviously start a bit of a bidding war. I couldn’t quite believe it. We listed a house a couple of years ago, and it sold on first exhibition at our asking price. Did we ask too little, or was our agent smart enough to price it, and have buyers on her list who had missed out previously on similar properties and would be willing to jump at the right house. I think the latter case was true, but even if it wasn’t, we would have accepted the offer, and left it at that.
As for standard settlement time – any NSW contract I have seen is 42 days. ACT it seems they like 30 days. I keep negotiating to at least get a 60 day settlement.
Hi kitdoctor, it is late, so forgive me if I don’t fully answer your questions.
1. We have had an LOC split into four accounts before, three to show the deposits for the three properties that were purchased, and the fourth to be a ‘miscellaneous expenses’. If you will have some non tax deductible debt, then definitely have separate accounts.
2. Yes, unless you can do some negotiation with your bank, or your mortgage broker sets it up well for you.
3. Again, if you have tax deductible debt I would do it this way. If you do not, I would prefer to have each IP ‘stand alone’ for accounting purposes. Although there are benefits either way. It depends how you want to structure it. If you have IPs on fixed, IO loans, you probably don’t want to have to have another 6 cheque accounts etc., so deposits into one account would make sense.
4. If you have non tax deductible debt, a good idea is to have all IP loans as IO until that debt is vanquished (cool word huh?). Pay IO loans monthly. Once non tax deductible debt is gone, make the decision on whether or not you want to start P&I for IP loans.
I currently run a business that is small 20c lolly machines. Very low tech, screwdriver is all you need for maintenance.
The takings from any of my machines is a maximum of about $100 per month, with about 40% (really rough) profit in that. I have 79 machines currently, and whilst not being enough to live off, it ‘profits’ about $1000 per month – most of which I pay to Mum for helping me stock them, and the other money I ‘expense’ in various ways.
I spoke with a guy who was filling the chip machine next to one of mine one day, and he said that a friend of his has a soft drink machine. Can’t remember where it’s located, but he fills it twice a week (couple of hours max) and the profit is $600!! I want just two of them!
I guess it’s a bit of a slang/jargon term for vendor finance.
Buy for $100K, at settlement, give vendor $80K to complete, title transfers etc., but now you owe vendor $80K. 100% financed. (I’m ignoring costs, but they can be part of the vendor finance bit).
Looking to settle on an office purchase – part rental and part my own use. Rental will pay loan, my own use therefore FREE[].
Also looking to settle on one pos cashflow place that was offered and accepted waaay back in August. After that will definitely sit back and watch and wait.
Trying to add value to what I’ve got at the moment.
Any number of 2 bed units in Queanbeyan three years ago. Selling for $33-$50K. Had cash, didn’t bother pursuing. Now selling for upwards of $140K and just under $200K mark. Not happy Jan!
I think you and all the other guys have valid points. I have used that strateg before – although it was only a matter of killing time – my boss was a Navy witch (old, not highly ranked officer, bitter, a second wife, and just generally a kind of person). I only had to wait 18 months and she moved on. At that point I was in a place where I loved what I did and the majority of the people round me. Oh yeah, the boss was not happy that I knew more than her.
In the public service (I only know Defence, which I believe is a very bad example of the public service anyway), no, I’ll say in Defence, if you are a screwup, then the only way you move on is if your boss gives you a glowing recommendation/reference and you get promoted out of there.
It takes at least 6 months to sack someone, and you have to cross every t and dot every i, and even then the decision maker (who has NOTHING to do with your workplace) may just say No anyway.
I was ready to move on anyway, (and only really liked about 4 of the 30 odd who worked with me), just biding my time, when we had a new supervisor ‘appointed’ (don’t get me started on how that happened), and he got ‘in my face’ from day one. Let’s just say I got hauled in by the boss because I hung up on this turkey cos I thought that he and I had more things to worry about (while he was in Melbourne and I in Canberra) than whether or not I had filled in my list of ‘goals’ for the coming year. The big boss thought the sun shone out of this git, and it’s only now, 8 months later, that he’s even listening to the rest of the section who are telling him what I told him 8-9 months ago. I still think he’ll choose to disregard.
The most fun and the hardest I think I ever worked was when I only earnt $25K per year, but had a group of guys working with me that used to form an awesome social group outside of work as well. I really miss that, and guess that’s the other reason I’m not willing to wait out the new guy this time round. Besides, he gets paid so much for so little, that he’s got no intention of going anywhere, and Navy guys have even less idea how to get rid of a public servant than do the public servants!!
The ato will decide if the loan is tax deductible purely based on what the money is used for. If you buy a car, or a holiday, not tax deductible. If the loan is to buy a PPOR, not tax deductible.
If the loan is used to purchase investments – shares/property etc. then it is tax deductible. It does not matter that the security IS a PPOR, it’s what the money is used for.
Paul, why are you only a little fish? If we really sat down and compared numbers, we’d probably be at roughly the same equity, and your salary is almost double mine!! I would only be better off if real estate kept rising substantially, as I have more properties to grow.
As for getting you into debt – I think your plan is similar to what I would do, ie 20% deposits. However buying in NZ there isn’t the stamp duty, so you could probably get more properties for the same $ than you could in Aust.
Westan, I thought you said you were moving to Bondi? Or am I just imagining things?
I so wish I had spare cash at the moment, I’d love to buy in NZ – plus I love the place too, only been there once – 1991, but have always wanted to go back. All these people that are buying in NZ are making me even sadder that I’m not able to[]