Cornel, I can definitely recommend dropping Simon an email with your details. He’s got a lot of information that he shares for free, and it’s better for you offline than on here open to the world.
Lozza, I think you need to reward yourself at times. There’s no point making yourself miserable now, so that in future you’ll maybe have some (hopefully lots!) spare cash to spend.
Cornel, is that the next deal that you have found and trying to finance, or just a ‘potential’ next deal?
Did they factor in the rental that you would get?
Might be time to look for an income partner if that is the case that you cannot borrow. Or sit back and start saving some dollars. There’s nothing says you absolutely have to buy in the next 30 days.
Yes, this is true. However this is one book I ordered from Amazon, that never came as they couldn’t get it. I ordered it from Dymocks, and they got it in less than 6 weeks!
The ato wouldn’t necessarily know, but i wouldn’t want to risk the chance of them auditing. I think one of the things they have been cracking down on lately is where landlords claim repairs etc. on IPs but it’s really been at their residence.
Benny, do a search. Fudge and Kelvin have some good ones, and there is a website where you can download Fudge’s from (maybe Kelvin’s not sure on this one).
It’s at rentmaster’s website, but I can’t remember the URL.
Are you saying that you want to use your LOC to purchase the No 2 and 3 houses outright, or use the cash in it as the deposits?
Either way is fine, and the fact that you have a LOC at that level suggests that the bank already thinks that you can service the debt. If you are using it for the deposits, the bank will probably take into account the payments on $190K anyway, plus the new loan you’re looking at.
Fudge, what Shaun said is correct.
Using your strategy. In year 1, you buy a house for $160K (borrowing all) – LVR 100%. You pay off say $30K, and maybe it rises in value by $5K to $165K. Your loan is now $130K (160 less your 30), and your new LVR is now 78%. In year 2, you pay off another $30K, and it increases in value by another $5K. Value is now $170K, loan is now $100K. LVR = 59%.
If you went to the bank and asked them either for a new loan of $136K (80% of $170K), they will do it in one of a couple of ways.
One way is as Shaun said, pay off the old loan, and have one loan now of $136K. This I would not recommend, as you would be using that extra $36K as the deposit for your next property, and one loan would make it a bit harder to work out your end of FY figures, especially if you are paying off the loans ASAP.
2nd way is (either LOC or standard) to ask them for a 2nd loan (same bank, same standard interest rates) for the $36K. This way, your accounting is easier as the loans are separated. May pay more in account keeping fees though.
barbara, I would get a couple of real estate agents to give you quotes for the rental. That way you can geta good idea of prices in your area.
Also, look in the papers to see what is available and what it’s worth. You don’t want to charge too little, but you also don’t want to risk the empty house by charging too much.
alf, I would get your contract and take it to a property solicitor and get them to chase it up for you. At the very least they can look at the contract and advise you of your options.
Good on you C2. I’m glad there are people around who won’t ‘sell their souls’ or any ‘secrets from the stars’ for money.
It’s a shame there aren’t more people like that. Look at Diana’s butler – the one who ‘knew her best’ (or something like that), so he writes a tell all book!!
Hey alf, I too have had some of those ‘learning experiences’ that come straight out of your wallet.
If you are concerned about rising interest rates and all other factors you mentioned, consider fixing at least part of your loan. This way you have a foot in both camps. On one hand, you KNOW how much your repayment is for, say 75% of your loan, and on the other 25%, you could make extra payments, have a redraw facility etc. etc.
If you are looking to reduce the loan, then a good rule of thumb is to fix the 75% for as long as you think it would take to pay off the 25% (providing it’s a rate you are happy with), give or take a few months. That way, you haven’t locked in for 5 years, paid off the 25% in 2, and are stuck with being unable to pay any extra off the fixed portion.
sunshine, without knowing any other details on the property, and therefore giving no opinion as to sell/hold etc., I hope that you are on a P&I loan, and can therefore save some $$ out of pocket by refinancing to IO.
If you are already on IO and it’s costing you $500 per month – ouch[]
alf – bugger! Does sound like you were taken for a ride.[]
budgie_boi, I suggest you do a heap of research on the area, see how many units are being built, what the rental rate is (from other agents other than you’re buying from), what other agents think the places are worth, and will be worth by the time they are completed etc. etc.
Get yourself a valuation now (independent) to see if you are paying today’s price, or the future price. A lot of developers are greedy, and charge next years price, which in a falling market, could be the price in about 5 years time.
Also, make sure that you do not release your deposit to the developer. If they want that, and won’t accept not having it, walk away. If things go bad, your money is gone.
But alf, surely if the property was not completed, you hadn’t paid for it, and therefore there were no interest costs, so it didn’t matter if it was complete or not?
I know with some of our OTP purchases 2 years ago, we were cheering when there were delays, as we had a locked in price to purchase, values were rising all the time, and we had not had to pay any money (other than our deposit which was in cash, as we weren’t organised enough to have Dep Bond or Bank Guarantee).
Have you never had one done? Or do you believe they’re too expensive, or not worth it[?]
I have a report done (cost was $325 I think) on a 30 year old property (so no building allowance, and some pretty old fixtures & fittings), and my claim in the first year was nearly $1000 – and in fact I need to find the second page that details some more.
I also have one for a new property in QLD (pp $178000). Depreciation claimed in first year is almost $6000. It came as part of the ‘Investors Club’ package, so I don’t know what they (we) paid for it.
The tax office will only accept a Quantity Surveyor to do these reports. I think they were well worth up to $500.
Cheers
Mel
A really quick list of what they value (not extensive as I don’t want to fill the page!)
Carpet
Curtains
Blinds
Stove
Hot water installation
Distribution gear
Light fittings
Smoke detectors
Wall heater
Exhaust fans
Pasive (removable) security systems
Furniture, conunter fittings, shelving
Modular vanity units
Shower screens
Modular kitchen cupboards
Some of these relate to building writeoff, like kitchens, and I think shower screens now.
Magnet I think they do that in the States a lot, but the banks mustn’t hold the title the way they do here.
In your scenario you would not have the title of the property in your name (same as a wrap buyer I guess), so you would really want to have a contract drawn up to protect yourself in this case.
There would be stamp duty implications once you had title transferred, which you’d want to do sooner rather than later to draw on some of the equity that you have created.
I’d be very wary of this strategy. I think it would take a good solicitor, and a desperate seller to ensure you don’t get burnt.
Cheers
Mel
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