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  • Profile photo of melbearmelbear
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    I’m guessing the answer to your question James is

    ‘Mind your own bloody business’

    Cheers
    Mel

    Profile photo of melbearmelbear
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    Originally posted by georgisj:
    Please be aware that you can keep your new ‘IP’ for 6 years and sell it without incurring capital gains tax.

    Remember though, that your ‘new’ PPOR would not be exempt from CGT if you kept the old one as your PPOR for CGT purposes.

    Cheers
    Mel

    Profile photo of melbearmelbear
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    Hi Andrew

    Welcome to the forum. good to see you are starting young.

    I would suggest that instead of emailing, you phone the agents, and what you really need to do is get out there and see them. They’ll be much more helpful if you’re standing in their office than if you’re just a tyre kicker on the email. Once you build up a relationship, you might get offered deals before they’re advertised. they are without a doubt generally the best ones[:)]

    Cheers
    Mel

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    I would say wouldn’t happen until ‘sometime after’ the next election. then it has to go through parliament etc. etc.

    Besides that, stamp duty is a state tax, so it will be interesting if they can force the states hands. Plus, it was supposed to be abolished (like it was on shares) when the GST came in.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    James, I would also let your (prospective) tenants perhaps have a say in which house – if they will be long term ones

    Perhaps a Wrap could be an option too.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Profile photo of melbearmelbear
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    Talk to a mortgage broker. Find out how much you can borrow.

    Is this what is called arranging provisional finance? I take it that this is the step at which it’s a good idea to get written confirmation from your bank about how much you can borrow, correct?

    Sort of. My first thought would be to find out from the Mortgage Broker a ballpark figure of what you can spend. Then you can put in an application to gain the provisional finance, and yes, you’d want to get it in writing!

    Make an offer (in person to the real estate agent.

    1. First up, the penguin home buyers guide says that after you have found an appropriate house, you should obtain the contract of sale. Is this the document that commonly used to make an offer? If not, what?

    Some states yes, some no. Some actually have an ‘offer’ document. I would suggest obtaining Steve’s Buyer Beware templates. It goes into detail the steps required, and also has a template you could use to make your written offers.

    2. Many escape clauses have been mentioned elsewhere in this forum. Is whatever document the offer is made with the document on which these are listed? Or is there more than one document on which the relevant clauses are listed?

    3. Is there an offer document that a real estate agent will try and get you to sign that should commonly be avoided? I’ve been reading about contract notes, for example, and they seem dead dodgy, as in the website posted below:.
    http://www.mericka.com.au/conveyancing/contractnote.shtml

    Use the one above.

    4. As a general rule, would you say it’s a good idea to run through any offer document I sign to my real estate lawyer first?

    Depending on your state. If the offer doc becomes the contract once countersigned by vendors, then get it run by solicitor. If you then have to sign contracts afterwards, make sure your solicitor goes through that first.

    5. In Queensland, are RE agents required to submit any offer I may make to the vendor?

    In all states.

    Agree on a price.

    As a general thing, is this usually done by the real estate agent physically taking the offer document to show and discuss with the seller, or is this commonly done over the phone? I’m just curious as to the usual timeframe of the offer process.

    Either or. Verbal offers are done often on the phone. Written offers that will be countersigned obviously are done in person. My sales/purchases have all been verbal, as nothing is definite until the solicitors exchange the contracts.

    So what happens if you have arranged your pest, building and any other relevant inspections, you successfully organise finance, all is well, and the two weeks expires. Whoever’s living in the house then trashes it, between the end of the two week period and settlement. Or maybe the vendor rips out all of the lights and sprinkler systems for the new house he’s building. So, effectively, you’re not getting what you’re obliged on the contract to pay for. What happens then?

    Ask your solicitor. YOu need to make sure that whatever you want to remain in the house is listed as an inclusion in the contract. You would also be wise to take out building/contents insurance after exchange to cover yourself.

    So, after signing the contract,…

    Probably a silly question, but this IS the same contract as referred to above as “contract of sale”, yes?

    Yep

    The Penguin Home Buyer’s Guide also mentions getting a survey done. Is this normally required, or is it unusual?

    Not always needed – but depends on the property. I have never had one done, but I guess it depends where you are buying.

    If it’s all satisfactory, the contract becomes “unconditional” and you can’t get out of it without paying some penalty.

    What kind of penalty is usually applied? Are we talking loss of deposit, or other? Generally, how does it work?

    Unconditional generally will mean loss of deposit, and possiblity of having to make up any loss the vendor suffers on trying to sell again.

    You should also have a conveyancing solicitor. Give their name to the agent at the start and they will take care of all the details (including building and pest insp sometimes).

    Does all of the conveyancing take place during the two week period?

    No. They take care of settlement, with the bank, the other solicitor etc. at the end as well. I always use a solicitor, and they advise the things I should get done, and do searches to ensure the vendor does own the place etc.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Ahmed 10%! You gotta be kidding me!

    Maybe you need to settle for a 80% lend with a much lower rate, or talk to Terry and see what he can do for you. there are other lenders out there that must have better rates on a 90% lend.

    Not sure of your location. Perhaps you could refinance at a LOWER rate, have the house as an IP, and rent for a little (or a long) while, to see if you’re happy to rent etc. etc.?

    If you’re looking for financial freedom you’re not really going to find it by buying bigger and better PPORs for yourself.[:(]

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Lazo, this site could give you a price for kitchens. I think they’ll give delivered prices, and take it away yourself. dont’ know about fitting though

    http://www.lawsauctions.com.au/

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Rezix, reading through these posts again, I’ll admit I did think, pay your HECS, no, maybe you could get a house, and back to pay your HECS again.

    Especially with your time constraints at present, you are probably better off paying the HECS upfront. Especially as if you leave the money in the bank – expenses will always ‘suddenly’ come up that will require that money. Enjoy life at Uni, and as soon as you do get time to look for property, start looking. You never know, we might be somewhere else in the cycle then, and there could be great buying options. Always look – doesn’t mean you have to buy, but you’ll be educating yourself on the numbers.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    That is way CF-, even with the ‘freebie’ equity.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Profile photo of melbearmelbear
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    http://www.powwowevents.com.au

    they deliver fairly quickly

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Tro

    Can you not use the increased equity to borrow against to fund the CF+ properties? If it has been a good growth property, be careful about selling if you wish to ‘cash in your chips’ in 8 years. If you can find some CF+ properties, they could balance each other out, and as James said, get QS done to reduce the outflows also.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Hay, are you managing yourself or an agent?

    I’ve been told that it’s a simple matter of contacting the Bond people. They will send a letter to the ‘last address’ of the tenants – which probably will be the IP if they have done a runner. They have 4 weeks or so to contest not getting their bond. If they don’t answer, it’s released to you!

    However, if they’ve done a runner, I’d also check out your rights about entering the property etc. You don’t want to do the wrong thing…

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Brendan, you’ve obviously made a note to yourself that changing the IP loan to IO is one way to reduce your outgoings.

    Raising the rent is another. In regards to upsetting the tenant, do a quick look around to see what comparables are renting for, and maybe raise yours so that it’s still less. That way the tenant is still getting a good deal. Other than that, spend less I guess!!

    Cheers
    Mel

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    In regards to the agent’s commission, I think it sounds fair. 5% of $18000 isn’t really going to net them much, and 2.5% on the rest seems about standard – or less even than I’ve been paying.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Marty, I guess it depends on whether or not they’ll leave it in place when they leave.

    I’ve had tenants move into one of mine recently, ask if they could install an alarm, and said they would leave it when they moved on. More than happy with that![:)]

    I think halves is a good deal for your tenant – and you.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    You’ll also find that the ATO now classify kitchen cupboards etc. as part of the building, and you can only depreciate them at the building rate of 2.5%.

    Cheers
    Mel

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    Yep, read it.

    Spit ’em out[:)]

    Cheers
    Mel

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