Forum Replies Created
- thecrest wrote:The advertising expertise used to create "wants" and "must haves" in our minds has improved to a dangerous level.
They sell their expertise to those who sell goods and services.
Those who don't have a wealth creation plan and who continue to follow bad strategies such as buying depreciating assets with borrowed money and ignore the passing of time without a savings plan, will always be tenants.
cheers
thecrestIt hasn't improved enough to get me to buy "doodads".
My only shopping list includes food and properties. Yum!
But seriously; I totally agree with you and I walk/drive around shaking my head a lot these days. It's sad. And you know what? I've tried to lead a few horses to the water, but they won't drink.
At least there won't be a shortage of tenants!Hi cjay11,
I'll do it.
I'm sitting here in sunny L.A by the pool looking for something to do and love to talk property to like-minded folk. That's why I'm on this addictive forum all the time I suppose.
Drop me an email with a few questions to test me out. I don't know it all or profess to, but I'm happy to help. No obligation – just friendly advice.
I've never used one and never will, as I like to do all my own Due Diligence and save the 5 grand or whatever they charge. Some charge by a percentage of the purchase price.
I equate the cost of the B.A to how much time I would spend sourcing a property. Their charge is equivalent to about 4-5 weeks wages for an average person. I reckon I could find a property in about 40 hours or less. That's one week's full time work, so to me; the money is not worth the time they would spend to source it.
I've seen a few buyer's agent websites and I don't think they could do a better job of finding I.P's (that have the right numbers) than I could. I've even seen neg geared properties on some websites. What a joke; you are paying them 5 grand to find you a bad investment? No thanks. It would have to be pos geared for me to even think about it at those prices.
For people who are too busy, or too lazy to look for themselves for either I.P's or PPoR's then I suppose the money may be worth it.
Some high income earners believe that it's financially more economical for them to keep working and simply pay the buyer's agent.
If it's not meant to be an ad; what's it meant to be??
We've already found the perfect retirement place and live there already (well; not right at the moment) – Dromana, Mornington Peninsula – 1 hour south of Melbourne.
great bay beaches, surf beaches, bathing boxes, no crowds, no traffic, no traffic lights (well; one), great views, near the wineries and golf courses, parks, shops. Nice locals, the Martha Cove Marina 2 mins up the road.
Heaven.
You can't win F;
it's like talking to a 'born again" – they have an answer for any logical argument, and you will go mad trying to upset them.
By the way rejoice, I have many dark thoughts about severly hurting scammers, but I haven't done it and nor will I.
I have many thoughts that I am Donald Trump, but I'm not him… yet.But you know what I've done; I stopped wishing and started doing. I've spent many years working very, very hard, getting educated, saving my pennies, taking action and now enjoying the fruits.
By the way; what's an "SGR AFFILIATE"?
Sounds like "try on" by the development company to me.
No local Council would allow a development company to do all this without allowing the neighbors to put up any objections first.
It is the same as when anyone buys a property and submits plans to Council to change the use of the property. This also applies to raw land; before you can build you have to apply to Council for permits, and post a Notification on the property (and in the local paper as well I'm fairly sure) that there are permits pending subject to objections/approvals by the neighbors.
The only people who can force your parents to be part of this development road is the Council – assuming they have plans to extend it in the future. But before they do, they have to buy your parent's property.
I heard of a r/e developer who bought a property near the Bay once. The property behind theirs had massive trees blocking out the bay views. After settlement, the developer sent a bill for $20k to the owner of the property for the cost of the removal of the offending trees.
Of course; the tree owner said no, and the developer had picked on the wrong property owner; the developer got a solicitor's letter from the tree owner saying the tree owner was suing the developer for stress, inconvenience, grief etc.
Don't bother engaging a solicitor for this situation; simply send the developers a letter telling them to go to hell, or better still; save yourself a 50c stamp and ignore them.
My 2c worth;
I did a reno on our last purchase and in the bathroom we kept the hand-basin and bath with original taps and spouts, but replaced everything else.
I added;
1. new shutter blind ($15 approx)
2. re-tiled shower/bath area ($100 approx)
3. new IXL-tastic (included new wiring for this) ($200 approx)
4. new floor tiles ($60 approx)
5. new shower curtain. ($10 approx)
6. re-painted whole room ($70 approx)
7. new shower rose. ($20 approx – period style)
8. new mirror over hand-basin. ($80 approx)Total cost was less than $600 dollars. I have done other bathroom renos that were more expensive, but this illustrates just how inexpensive it can be done.
The only work not done by me was the electrical work. I removed all the existing tiles and laid new ones, did all the painting, installed the mirror and blind. It looked great.
Tiling is surprisingly cheap and easy to do, and has a BIG impact on the look of the room. You need a good tile cutter and angle grinder for this work.
Also; use the correct paint for wet areas – use good stuff.
I agree with Terry and S.O.G;
There was study done somewhere that I read about relating to a comparison between fixing and staying with variable rates. (I think it was in one of Margaret Lomas's books).
The bottom line was there wasn't a lot of difference at the end of the day for investors when compared over a number of years.
After you factor in fees for breaking fixed rates (in some cases), lost opportunities for future investment due to the restrictions that come with fixed rate loans such as no extra payments etc, plus the fact that the loan interest is tax deductible, which minimises the impact of rate changes, you may be better to stay on variable rates.
I have done both in the past, but will now always stay with variable rates for the flexibility. Not only that, if you select your investments with rate changes taken into consideration when you crunch your numbers (I hope you are all doing this) it won't really matter if the rates go up a couple of percent.
Having said all that, if it helps you to sleep better at night to fix the rates, then do it. You aren't worse off; just in a different position.
We had to do it when we moved over here to L.A. It has been a successful financial move. I wished I'd done it a few years earlier.
Now we have seen the light, and will be moving back to Aus next year and continuing to rent our PPoR. We will find a nice house to rent for ourselves in the neighborhood.
Our plan is to rent a house for ourselves for less than what we are getting for our PPoR, thus creating even more cashflow, and rent for the foreseeable future.
Getting your head around renting when you could live in your own, beautiful PPoR is the hardest part. But my wife and I are on the same page, and we know the benefits of taking this unusual (for most people) step.
Our goal is to be totally retired in 4 more years, and work when and where we choose for fun – not because we have to. By taking this course of action, we have accelerated those plans.
I have no doubt that all our friends will be thinking "what are they thinking?" but we don't care. I'm tipping that once a few of them see the benefits they might be tempted to try it.
foundation wrote:GlenR, there are two possibilities:
– the 11 second rule was once useful but is now broken and will never again work.
– the 11 second rule always works, but the houses you're looking at are overvalued.My vote is for the second, but I understand that many others disagree.
Cheers, F. [cowboy2]
I agree F,
but rather than a massive correction on prices, I think the normal procedure will prevail – the prices will stagnate until the wages catch up and affordability improves.
Of course, as affordability improves so does demand, which forces up prices. Maybe we will not see affordability improve until finance becomes very high (I hope this doesn't occur).
Then we have affordable houses, but no-one can afford the repayments. Around and around we go.
By the way; did you manage to find out the average cost of a house in 1901 compared to 2001?
So does that mean my jokes are getting better?
No worries.
Here to help, tell bad jokes and generally annoy people – not in any particular order.If a company has been spotted by Neil's radar; you know it's dodgy.
Send him a private email and ask some questions. He is most obliging and will tell you what he knows.I didn't think the market in N.S.W was going well enough to worry about better offers. Maybe things are turning over there?
In any case; it's irrelevent. If you are buying as an investment then you are buying on the numbers, right?
If someone offers more than you, they are either buying for their PPoR, or investors who can't crunch numbers as good as you.
You, as an astute investor, buys on facts, crunches numbers and uses NO emotion; you simply shrug your shoulders, put the cheque book back in your pocket and keep looking, right?
You need to get into the habit of working out your offer based on the numbers that will work for you, put in ONE offer and walk away if it's not accepted. Pretty soon agents will know you are serious and this is how you do business and the games will stop.
There is a "deal of the century" every 5 mins.
I don't know that there is a clause you can insert into the contract to stop this in NSW, but try it anyway. The worst thing the agent and the Vendor can say is no. But they want to sell, you don't need to buy.
suzieq wrote:My Property Manager has asked me if I'm taking out Landlord's Insurance – still not sure, as I assumed if you had a property manager on the job that it wouldn't be as necessary?!Thoughts please?
SQ
You absolutely must have it!
It's a couple a hundred per year, but is tax deductible and worth every cent. The P.M doesn't stop the tenants from doing damage or doing a runner.
The insurance covers you against this and more.
There is AAMI, Property One, and various others. Do a google search, or ring your lender – sometimes they provide it, or ring your insurance broker if you use one. Even the P.M might be able to suggest someone.The PURPOSE of the loan dictates whether you can claim the interest on the loan or not, and the A.T.O can be tough on those who get it wrong.
You can claim the interest if it is used for investment purposes, but not if it is used for personal purposes such as holidays, cars, renos on your PPoR etc. If you use your PPoR as an I.P, then the renos would be tax deductible or depreciable as a capital improvement. You need to talk to your Accountant on that though.
You could set up an equity loan that had 2 (or more) accounts – one for personal use, and one for investment use. You only pay interest on the funds you use, and you can allocate more funds for investing, less for personal or vice versa.
Because they are separate accounts the tracking for tax purposes is easy and you won't get into trouble with the A.T.O by using personal funds and trying to claim tax deductions on them.
Yes, that is correct. The advantage of this strategy is it gives you extra cashflow now. If you pour that money straight back into your loan, or use it to minimse your personal debt, it will save you considerable interest on your loans over the future years.
Basically, you receive your tax return weekly instead of in one lump sum at the end of the year.
Your accountant can do it for you; they send a letter to your employer telling them to withold less tax than normal – to the value of your tax return divided into weekly repayments, or whenever you get paid. So, for example; if your tax return was to be $5,200 for this upcoming year, you receive an extra $100 in your pay packet each week if you get paid weekly.
There are 2 problems with this strategy;
1. most people are tempted to spend the extra $100 on c.r.a.p. If you receive your tax return in one lump sum, you are less likely to blow it on junk, but re-invest it back into your I.P loan or pay down personal debt (I hope).
2. the actual tax return may not be totally accurate, which means that you will need to revise it in next year's return. It could mean you owe the A.T.O more tax next year, or you may be owed more. It is not a major concern, but it can get a little messy. This is probably why most accountants are reluctant to do it and will try to talk you out of it.If you could do with the extra cashflow to help with a neg geared property, and your tax return looks as though it will be a significant amount, I would recommend arranging the "variation" with your accountant.
Contact:-
The Ombudsman's Office in your State,
Contact the Dept of Fair Trading in your State,
Ring Current Affair – they love this stuff.We ran a B&B for a few years in Red Hill, about an hour south of Melb. I'm not sure about other states' rules, but in Vic we had to follow a few basic guidlines. It was surprisingly easy. You don't need lawyers to get started. Ring the local council and tell them of your plans. They will send out an inspector to view the property and let you know what, if any, changes you need to make.
It is s a good idea to do the local Tafe B&B course before you do anything else.
We had to install a hands free sink – we had 2 spearate sinks in the kitchen, so one had a hands free tap installed.
We had to install fridge temp guages and keep records.
No other changes required, but we converted one bedroom into a bathroom so we had 3 beds, 3 baths.
We had to provide guest parking. We had bought an ex-farm property on 5 acres, and there was an enormous shed used for farm machinery, so we had an automatic area.I think from memory that 5 or less guests doesn't require a business registration. We had 6 guests, and already had a company name and business trading name so didn't need to do anything, but we registered the B&B name anyway as a separate business name.
A couple of tips:
1. Do it an area of high tourist demand with a good number of B&B's already there. They network each other well, and refer overflow bookings to each other. It is a good idea to invite all the local owners around to your establishment for wine and nibbles before you open for business. You will get to know them and they you, and start the network process. Also, it is a goodwill thing.
2. Register yourself with the local Tourist Accomodation Agency in that area. They will send business your way for a small fee.
3. Don't do any media advertising at all. Total waste of time for paid ads in phone books and newspapers; get a website up and running instead. The tourism agency will get you bookings, and word of mouth. That's all you need, but get a flyer and business cards composed and printed – short sweet, simple to read, maybe a photo.
4. Get a good accommodation industry software package for invoicing, bills etc. We used M.Y.O.B (very early version) and it was fine. The newer versions will be adequate.
5. Set up an EFTPOS/debit/Credit card payment system and take payments in advance.
6. Allow one night stays until you get very busy (you will). Many established B&B's which don't need the business don't take single nights, and they will refer them to you. We got most of our early booking from this (after wasting money on ads).
7. Use the best quality linen,towels, etc. Don't scrimp on anything. You will get lots of repeat business with a quality product.
8. Set up a separate mobile phone exclusively for B&B bookings and buy a good, compact bookings diary for you to carry around, and a proper professional one you transfer the "in the field" bookings to when you get home. People won't book if they get an answering machine. Be accessible at all times by phone.
9. Get very good insurance with $20 mill pub/liability.One more piece of advice; don't expect to get rich doing this. It is a lifestyle job, and very work intensive, unless you pay someone else to do all the cleaning. It is almost all weekend trade; very little midweek unless you get someone in for a week booking, but most people who want to do that will rent a private house or go to a resort or motel.
It is adviseable to offer breakfast ingredients for the guests to do it themselves, but you need very good facilities for that – self contained cottages or separate kitchens. If you are doing the meals yourselves (as we did) you will do a lot more work and a lot less free time.
The self contained option is more hands off and frees you up – it is far less commitment and stress.As for Holiday Accommodation; I worked as a real estate agent in a holiday destination for a while, and we ran holiday lettings out of the branch as well. The season for renting was short and labour intensive for both the agents and the vendors. Quite often the only time you can get holiday lettings is when you want to use the place yourself (summer, easter etc), and the cost of up keep can be high as you need to have the place cleaned, any furniture and other fittings replaced or repaired after each tenant. Most only stay for a week or a weekend, so the cleaning time and cost can be high. Holiday letting management fees can be high as well. This is offset by the higher rents, but in my opinion not enough to be attractive in a lot of cases.
In reality, many people buy holiday houses with the idea of using it themselves, and making an income out of it too, but they find the hassle isn't worth the money and they aren't able to use the place because of a tenant, so they give the idea a miss and use it for themselves.