Forum Replies Created
Of course. I don't doubt it all.
Do you think this is an accident? Do you think that agents are all this incompetent and don't know their market?
They know the market very well.
This is proof that they under-quote to get buyers interested (and more importantly; to get details at the open for inspections from future sales contacts).
It would be interesting to know how many auction sales that reached the reserve in the last month sold for much more than it.
My guess is not many.Hi Brad05,
If you use equity in your PPoR as a deposit on the I.P then your mortgage payments will go up as you are using loaned funds instead of cash as the deposit.
Your total finance for the I.P will be higher, which will affect your cashflow from the I.P's. This is not necessarily bad, but you need to factor this into the number crunching.
It is a known fact that in most cases it is financially better for people to rent a house themselves rather than own a house, and put the difference in funds between the rent and the house mortgage into investments (unless they own their house outright).
The problem is, most people have a psychological barrier with renting and owning I.P's and not living in their own home. There is a very strong emotional attachment to the PPoR for most. If you can overcome that barrier you are on the way. The other problem is that most renters never put the difference into any investments – they just spend it.
In your case you already own a PPoR (which is a type of investment in itself) that has gone up in value. Well done!
I would not sell this as you now have one I.P if you move out and put in a tenant. You can then access the equity you have to buy another I.P.
If you sell your PPoR, you will have selling costs, and lose the future cap gain on your property. It is not always a step forward to sell your property to buy another.
Incidentally, the way you work out your USABLE equity is;
The Banks will lend you 80% of the current house value, minus any existing loans.So, your position is:
$380k x 80% = $304k + $20k deposit = $324k
Existing Loan is $295k
USABLE EQUITY = $29k (add to that any funds you have put aside)There are some lenders that will let you use up to 90% or even 95% of your PPoR equity, but I believe this is very over-exposed and dangerous. Remember that lenders will say "yes", but it is not them putting their house on the line.
Good work Brisbane04,
This is the problem right now for a lot of people;They want to invest, but don't have any actual cash to use as a deposit.
So they have to use some equity if they have it, and when you do the numbers on a 100% finance like you worked out then it is very hard to find an investment that will be pos cashflowed.
Hey Millions,
Do the numbers on the $290k townhouses like Brissy04 and I showed you in our posts and you'll see there probably isn't much if any improvement in the bottom line. There may be more on-paper deductions however.With the houses at $350k, you may find that as the price of the property gets higher, the rent return gets lower, and there are less renters available due to the rent amount. You end up with a bad return and a property that is harder to rent. Check out the rent demand and return on the houses in the area.
You may do better with 2 properties at $200k than one at $350-400k.
garyloy wrote:Have just created a company (Unit Trust and Trustee Company) with a partner and we are looking to purchase our first investment property shortly but I would like to create a decent Business Plan first – does anyone have a template they would be willing to offer as an example.
Regards
Gary
Hey Gary,
Can I ask you why you elected to use this structure to purchase your I.P's? Is it because you have a business partner?
What are the benefits? Can you still take tax deductions on your personal income tax?
How does buying as a company impact on your personal income tax
How does it work – what is the process to buy?
What are the disadvantages if there are any?Well done Kim!
Hey vyaw2003,
I'm gunna call you V – it's easier to type. Is that o.k?
I just realised that I didn't fully answer your question in my last post. Please understand that when I get to read the day's forum posts over here it is after dinner and the chardy is kicking in. Australian of course!!
I don't want to divulge my financial position on an open forum, and it is not that fantastic (maybe L.A is making me feel inadequate?), but it is enough that we now have enough equity from our portfolio that the increasing value of the portfolio allows me to draw on the equity each year and not spend more than the properties go up in value each year. I base the average of the increasing value at 5% per year, which is well under the average for property in Australia for the last gazillion years. So if the portfolio does better than 5% then I have no worries. So far this has been the case – even during the "correction".
We are still going to be investing when we return from the USA. My wife still works part time because she is like me; needs to be busy.
Having said that; we are like you – free from the mentality to consume, so don't need a lot to live on. I draw a modest amount from the equity we have to live on, but as I said; I love to be busy and I need a project, so now I choose to work when it suits me; not some boss.
This situation only eventuated 2 years ago at aged 44. Before then, it was HARD SLOGGING.
Hey Billy;
good name. I think "ophelia" would have worked well too.
The best time to reduce debt on loans; even investment loans; is… ALWAYS.
I know some people say to never pay off the investment debt because it is tax deductible, but you still have to service the loan and be a slave to your real estate if it's neg cashflowed. If you've got a chance to turn a neg to a pos by paying down some debt, then take it I say.
Less interest to pay means improved cashflow, serviceability and equity for further investing.
If the profit tips the I.P you keep into pos, then you can redraw and go again. The goal should be to acquire as many pos cashflow properties as you can, that also grow in value, so you can retire from the rat race sooner.
If your finances are o.k, ie; good serviceability, good LVR, then invest again.
Unless you can find another project that offsets the neg property with a pos cashflow, I would rather see you with one property that doesn't strain the finances and is fun to own, than two properties that you will struggle with and have stress.
What's Big Brother?
Turtle wrote:thanks Marc…do you know what the average comms are?? I've had one lady this morning tell me 3.45% +GST!!!!!!!!!!!!as a brissy agent, i am flabbergasted that they are that high makes our approx 2.5% capped by law look very ordinary – hi ho, its off to perth i go!!!
reason for selling it is i need the money for another project – don't really want to sell it, but the other project is more important and has much MUCH greater potential/benefit. I've made a fair bit out of it since i bought and the rental is awesome – but them's the brakes!! It's only a cheapie (will sell it for about 170) but should sell quickly apparently as the rent is over 210pw with room to grow…and a long term very good tennant to boot!!!
cheers
TurtleAs an agent you would know that the commissions are negotiable. Maybe you need to have a mini commission auction amongst the agents – tell them all to put in their best (lowest) offer. That'll be fun. They're all just trying it on to anyone who falls for it.
Is there any way you can use the equity from the Kal property to help fund the next project? maybe get a JV partner?
I think there is still a bit of growth still to go over there in Kal, and the rents are starting to go up. Even when it flattens out, I don't think the values will drop off all that much and it won't happen for a while; especially while China and others similar are developing and need our metal etc.
Hi Millions,
The rental return is 6.5% based on the purchase price and the new lease; less than current finance rates which cuts it out in my criteria, but there would be pretty good on paper deductions due to its age. As Terry said; the body corp is a bit high; no doubt the pool and other common areas which would be large in a complex like this contribute.
It's a 3 x 2 townhouse in a large block of units. What are 3 x 2 houses on land selling for in the area, and what are other 3 x 2 townhouses selling for?
Assuming you could get it for $190k (you may get it for less) with a 20% cash deposit +6% purchase costs, the rent return would improve slightly, and the cashflow would be roughly this:
interest: $12,160 (based on $152k finance @ 8% I.O)
nett rent: $10,192 (based on $245 p/w, minus 20% of rent to cover holding costs)
Total Nett Cashflow: -$1,967 per year (-$37.85 per week)I have used a slightly higher than current market interest rate, and the 20% of rent for the holding costs are also on the high side from my experience, but the worst-case scenario is what you want to work with.
With the on-paper deductions this would probably be cashflow positive after tax if you are using a cash deposit.
If you have to use equity, I would say the numbers would probably still be neg after tax, but not by a lot.If the cap growth prospects are good this could be a decent buy at $190k or less. Offer 'em $180K on a 30 day settlement and see how you go! Cheeky.
Hi S.O.G;
I agree; I am conservative at heart, and like to invest aggressively, but safety is the first concern.
I get nervous when I hear of newbie investors taking the plunge with 100% (and more) finance on property investments. This is too highly exposed in my opinion.
It is not so bad for the more experienced investors who can crunch the numbers and see the dangers to leverage this high, but even then it is not ideal.
I think your strategy is the safest way to go. I'm sorry I can't enlighten you about Bank West.
I just wonder about the catch (if any) if they are offering a higher interest rate than ING, who we have been with for years, and who I'm happy with. I haven't been putting money into the account for a while other than for my son towards his first house (gotta start 'em early). All my funds go into investment loans these days.
I mean; how can they offer the same conditions as ING and pay you a higher interest rate? What is the catch?
I don't think there is anyone there that is better than the next.
Past experience. The good news is that there is a boom going on there, so you will sell it in 5 mins.
Why are you selling? The rents are going up, and the properties are still going up. Giddyup!
Hi S.O.G,
the only problem with the 4% properties between '85-87 is they are only depreciable for 25 years, which runs out in 2012.
I see where you're heading now; I would park the cash in an ING account or something like that for sure, or leave it in the shares, and try to save like mad until I had the deposit required.
The other argument is; can you find a good I.P investment that will carry an almost 100% finance with a pos cashflow after tax? Probably not.
I suppose if you could, then it still may be better to go for the I.P and use the lovely leverage, rather than have to put the cash into a high interest-bearing account until the decent deposit is saved.
vyaw2003 wrote:so you are fully funded and retired? how old did you do that? what was your income and assets at the time? are you still growing or using all of what you have?Hi vyaw2003,
Retired – not yet.
Financially free – yes.
Employed right now – no and won't be until we return to Aus.I intend to buy/start another business using some equity, use this to fund further property investments.
I will never retire officially as I need to be busy and have projects to do, but I like to do what I want, when I want. That's retirement to me.
The point of my last post was to say that I gave up the trappings of the consumer world a long while ago. I don't need to be seen in BMW's and designer clothes and live in a "postcode" suburb. This means we can live on less, retire from the rat race earlier and have enough to keep going, and work for fun.
Agents rates are very negotiable, despite what they will try to tell you. They will try to stiff you with 3% or something like that.
I have heard of 1% commission, but that's very optimistic.
On a deal of that size, 2% is not unreasonable. That's $18k for doing virtually nothing.
Make 'em an offer of $15k flat, with no commission below a certain figure. This way they won't try to low-ball you, but don't expect them to get top dollar either. They'll just get a sale.
Tell them to pay for the advertising as well. Don't get sucked in to paying a grand or more for ads. The buyers are already out there looking in the windows, driving the streets and on the internet.
All you need is a photo in the window, a hundred flyers for the front desk at the agent's office (which they can pay for – they'll just run something off using their computer and printer) and a photo on the internet.
One more thing; don't let them sign you up for more than 60 days to sell the place. 45 days is even better; you know they won't sit on it and use it as a window dressing for that space of time. They want a sale and they don't have much time.
Put all your requests (as above or something similar) on paper and hand it to each agent you interview. This will show them you aren't negotiating and that is the deal you are offering them. Then say nothing and watch the reactions. If anyone says they have to refer to a superior in the office, you know you are not dealing with the main guy/gal, and they will come back with a counter offer better for them of course.
One of the agencies will take it – they need listings and without them they can't make a sale and get paid.
Hi Brad1m,
If you sell you will have cap gains based on the following;
The amount of tax you pay is determined by
a) your marginal tax rate on your personal income
b) whether you sell in less than 12 months (taxed on 100% of gain), or after 12 months of holding the property (taxed on 50% of gain).If so; the rough formula is:
Sell price: $240k
-buy price: $175k
-buying and selling costs, legals etc. (say; $20k for sake of example)Total gain = $45k.
NOTE: there can also be depreciation to be considered as well, but let's assume you sell quickly and do not depreciate anything.
If you have held the property for over 12 months, you pay tax on 50% of the gain = $22,500
Tax payable is at your marginal tax rate (say; 30%):- 30% x $22,500 = $6,750
Total Nett Gain:- $38,250
you may not end up paying the above amount of tax as the amount is factored into your personal income and tax position, then a new tax is calculated.
Buying and selling for a profit will give you short-term cashflow if done well, but long term you won't build real wealth as it's the compounding effect of buying, holding, using equity to acquire more that magnifies your wealth. Every time you sell you lose the opportunity of the future cap growth on that property.
Adding value through renos really only works in a booming market you'll find. Quite often the extra value of the house is only equivalent to the cost of the renos, which effectively means you have wasted your time.
You need to be very careful about the location and timing of the market for this strategy to work.
The situation in right now is a tough call; should you sell and free up the cash to put into another possible better return investment? or should you hold for the long term, and wait for cap growth to offset the neg gearing?
Keep in mind you will have some good "on paper" deductions through the renos which will soften the neg gearing position a fair bit. If you know the area will do well growth wise I would try to hold it and access the equity as it improves.
You're right dk,
a. you do need to have a taxable income for Margaret's strategy to work, but at the end of the day if your property investing is successful and you end up with a surplus of funds which may be taxed then you have won the game – no work for positive passive income.
Unfortunately, the stats show that most property investors only ever buy one I.P, and then most of them sell it and never buy another. Neg gearing and the financial hardship it produces contributes largely to this.
b. You are incorrect however that the property has to be new or newer. It only has to be built after 1987 -20 years old as of today. You can even use older properties that have been renovated as the renovation costs can sometimes be substantial enough to afford a good on paper deduction. Newer and more expensive properties will produce bigger on paper deductions, but they are not a pre-requisite, and quite often the rent returns are so bad that the great on-paper deductions aren't enough to turn a neg to a pos. I have a property that was built in 1989 and cost me $105k, with a rent return of $220 p/w (it was $180 p/w when I bought it). This is nicely pos cashflowed, and has increased in value by over 50% in 3 years. This, to me, is an easy investment that most people should and could make when they are starting out.
c. Finding a totally positive investment for most average people is extremely difficult. For most average people right now; they are earning a taxable income, and would love to invest and can't find a property investment that doesn't make any loss at all (pos geared) in today's market. Forget Steve's 11 second rule; it is the provider of false hope these days.
Margaret's strategy offers a very workable alternative for the many normal folk who want to kick-start their investing career without the debilitating situation of neg gearing. If the average person can buy a property like the one I described above every 2 years, they will have a lot of satisfying investing experiences.
If they also pay down some debt along the way, rather than park the cash in a pathetic savings deposit account, they will have investments that cost them nothing, and make them rich. Some may even have to pay tax on their investment instead of taking a hit to the hip pocket every week.
Don't forget to also get a depreciation schedule done for the PPoR that has recently become an I.P. This will help substantially with the tax deductions and improve the cashflow – may even turn your tax bill into a refund.
Cream on the cake.
Try looking in areas where no one is buying, then see if there is any potential for future growth and rent demand, employment possibilities and amenities, under-valued.
When properties are selling before your eyes (and above asking price) there is a frenzy going on. People buy anything they can throw a cheque at. Stay away.
With agents, the best thing to do is give them a very specific list of criteria that you want. The more broad it is, the more they will stretch the boundaries.
Blogs, where are you looking?
You are probably looking in the areas that are possibly experiencing a resurgence; this is not where you want to be investing anyway. If the boom is fully blown as you say – you're too late and the houses are now over-valued for the area.
What are the rent returns on these houses in question? is there any leg-room to add value and increase rents?
If the rent returns are crap, if the boom is underway, if the value you can add is next to nothing compared to an already renovated property in the area, then this is a bad sign. You've got a property that won't go up much more in value for several years with a terrible rent return on top.
My gut feeling is what I said before – under quoting by agents, over-hyping by papers (and agents) to stimulate some real interest and of course the property sells for around what the vendor sets the reserve at anyway unless the agent has conditioned them down. The result looks good on the surface.
Mind you; I hope you are right; ours will be worth more.
Hi rjm_22.
First thing; can you tell us your name or a nick-name – your posting name is a nightmare to type after 3 chardys! What about just 22?
Sorry to tell you this, but Steve's book with the 11 sec rule is all but a distant dream in Aus these days. You have to create the pos cashflow through adding value, subdividing etc. You can't simply buy it "off the shelf" any longer.
An easier (still not that easy) strategy is to buy a property that is cashflow positive AFTER TAX.
I have talked of this already on this site, and it still seems that it is not well known.
Basically, you buy a property that is neg geared initially, but through the "on paper" deductions associated with the right type of property, the cashflow of the property ends up being positive after tax. This means you will not have to put your hand in your pocket to hold this property, and there is no tax to be paid on the profit; unlike a property that is positively geared.
There are several factors which combine to make a property arrive at a pos cashflow after tax; your personal tax rate, the rent return, the depreciation amounts, the loan interest rate; they all have an influence, but it can be calculated ahead of the purchase to ascertain whether the property will fit the criteria.
Ideally, you would buy a property in an area that has good potential for cap growth, as well as a good rent return and the on paper deductions so you can maximise your investment returns.
The building needs to be constructed after 1987 to qualify for the "on paper" deductions, and a "depreciation schedule" prepared by a quantity surveyor for the accountant to use for the tax returns.
This is the very basic over-view of the strategy. Read all the Margaret Lomas books to find out the nuts and bolts of how to do it. They are excellent.