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  • Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Hey Simon,

    you are experienced in both property and shares;
    what's your take on the big contest, taking away the mitigating factor of risk?
    You know my feelings on this issue; I prefer the safety versus risk of property to shares.

    You don't see it that way; in your opinion, what is/has been the best return for your money? Are you nervous about the possibilty of a crash that would wipe out the value of your shares?

    As a side note; were you in shares during the 1987 "crash", and if so, did it affect you? Are the crashes or corrections localised like property?

    The reason why I ask this is we are mainly in property, and only recently, and in a small way, in shares. During the last "correction" of the property market in Aus since 2003 we have only had growth. We have no properties that have experienced a drop in value – quite the opposite thankfully.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    YAY!!
    I'm loving this thread.
    To answer Odenska's question about management:
    we use ABEL in Frangers. They have been great, and the fee is 6%.
    Speak to Norelle, tell her Marc Erard sent you. 
    She loves me.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    I agree with Chris.
    Education on finance and the real estate markets is crucial. Start now and never stop.
    If you have a lot of comsumer debt (other than your home loan) it is not adviseable to go into property investing until this is cut out.
    The reason why is that to be a property investor requires very good money management habits/practises, and unfortunately, people with lots of consumer debt tend to not have those habits.

    If you are relatively free from comsumer debt  then well done, and you should start to formulate a plan.
    Start with working out what percentage of your income you have free for investing, and work out how you can free up more of your income for this purpose.
    Then set down a plan for saving a deposit, or being able to access any equity you might have in your existing home if you have one for a deposit.
    Work out (with a mortgage broker's help) what you may be able to borrow SAFELY, what repayments you could afford should there be no tenants in the property for a while, what type of loan you will need.
    This will give you a basic outline of your budgets and possible purchase price for an I.P.
    Work out your strategy; buy and hold, flipper (or trader), renovating, subdivisions, developing, wrapping etc.
    Then you can start to do some market research and try and identify some areas that may be viable for your strategy.

    A couple of basic calculations for you to help work out cashflows on an I.P:

    1. allow for approx 20% of the rent to be eaten up by the "holding costs" such as management, insurances, rates, repairs, 4 weeks vacancy, etc (this doesn't include the loan interest). This is probably a little on the over-cautious side, but it pays to over-estimate the expenses.
    2. purchase costs for an I.P will be around 6% of the purchase price. Again; maybe a little high.
    3. never take an agent's estimate of the likely rent as gospel. Do your own research on what the actual rents are for your type of property in the area.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    crashy wrote:
    L.A Aussie wrote:
    and in this last week their portfolio has dropped 20% in value

    bolony! market has dropped about 6% in the last week

    Their share portfolio has dropped 20%.
    They didn't tell me what markets or what shares they were in.
    Was 6% "across the board"?

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Maybe if you can't find a pos cashflow property using a buyer's agent you could source one yourself. Anyone can buy a neg cashflow property; they're everywhere at the moment.

    Make sure you get a Depreciation Schedule on the one about to be completed to help with the tax returns and improve the cashflow.

    I'd wait until you have this one settled, tenanted and you know what the shortfall will be every week.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Yep; start small, make it positive cashflow, have a nice experience to kick you off.
    Then do it about 10 more times.
    Or, when you get giong; start looking to bigger deals.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    "Contrast this (of course) to the baby boomers, who: worked 25 hours a day for 10 years to save a 20% deposit. Once they got a loan, they had to walk 50 miles home from work (through snow) to their new house on the outskirts of town. Once home, they sat around on borrowed milk crates staring at the wall (couldn't afford a TV), and eating dirt."

    This sounds like the "four Yorkshiremen" sketch by Monty Python. Funny sketch- was it art imitating life?

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    blogs wrote:
    L.A Aussie wrote:
    . If I have a million tied up in property I can sleep like a baby. Why?
    Because I know that my properties are totally insured, and they will be there in the morning and still worth what they were last night. I have total control over the investment.

    So you think all the people with super in the event of a stock market 'crash' arnt going to try to offload some property to make up for their massive losses? Dont youthink this would also put downward pressure on that 'totally secured' property investment?

    Look at it this way-you are a 50-65 year old who has enjoyed the booming property market and as a result of the times have around 2-5 properties. You also have a significant super fund which due to the 'crash' is now worthless. What would you do? Sell a property? Maybe sell 2? Wouldnt everyone else also start to do this in a pnaick that their life savings has just been slashed? I could imagine an element of panick would set in-people would readily drop prices, your 'secure' investment is suddenly also now worth less….?

     As I said; well selected, well positioned property that the average family, in the average suburb lives in will never goes down. They have to live somewhere; it is a basic necessity. The demand for average housing by the majority of the population is always there, whether it be for rental purposes or to buy.

    However, to answer your question – would they off-load some property to offset the stock losses, and would it have a downward pressure on the "totally secured" property investment?; I suppose it would depend on whether they are receiving a passive income from the property or not at the time, and whether there are many others who need to sell their properties at that time as well. You are assuming that there are a good number of retirees with I.P's – there aren't. There aren't even a good number of retirees with shares or substantial super.

    The recent stats on super pay-outs were terrible; something like an average of only $70k or so per person (Denys Correll, N.E.D, Council of The Ageing) ; hardly a fortune, which means these people are not losing much wealth in the event of a crash, more than likely don't have many, if any shares or property and probably take a part pension in retirement.

    Personally, I wouldn't (and don't) put a lot of money into super as it is heavily linked to the stock market and the money is locked away until after you retire. There is no control. If there is a crash, all you can do is sit by and watch the wreck happen. Super losses are only "on-paper" losses until you retire anyway so they may bounce back before you need to take the pay-out, so those who are not retired would have no need to sell their properties as they haven't had a realised loss from the super yet. But most people who invest in super don't tend to invest in any other type of investment vehicle. The scenario you mention would only apply to people who have already retired and are trying to live off their super pay-out.

    I think that the majority of investors around the country are predominately in shares, mutual funds, property trusts or super and not directly in property (this is certainly the case in the US), so if the scenario you mention occurs, the volume of people having to sell their properties to offset the share market and super collapse would not have much of an impact on the housing market anway. I think the percentage of property owned by investors in Aus is only around 25%?, and the chances of even half of those needing to sell if the share market crashes would be very small.

    Ask yourself this; how many people in your circle of friends or aquaintances own an I.P? In mine there are 2 other than me – they both own one other property – a holiday home (not even an I.P). That's why I'm on this forum annoying all you guys – no mates to talk property investing with!

    People don't tend to sell their properties during a slump unless they need to; the rent is still coming in, so if you don't sell there is no problem. If my property portfolio halved in value overnight (has this ever happened?) I would still have the same rent coming in.

    Many people with shares, however, have their wealth linked to the cap growth of the shares and the dividends are linked to the value and company earnings, so if the value drops so does the income, or they sell off a few parcels of shares now and then to get some cash to live off. They can't afford for a drop in the stock market to occur in this situation. I played golf today with two retirees who have some direct stocks, mutual funds and tradeable mutual funds (can't remember the exact name of those). They live off the income from these investments, and in this last week their portfolio has dropped 20% in value. They are bleeding, getting nervous and are cashing out; holding a good chunk of their wealth in cash now, looking for a good high interest cash account. Good luck. They own no property other than their PPoR, which I guess they wouldn't sell.

    So, no; the properties are pretty secure.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Nice photo Mike.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Because stock markets crash, and crash massively and suddenly. The market is very high right now, and more than one commentator on the state of the US economy has likened the current conditions to 1929 and 1987.

    I have a L.O.C at 7.37%, and I am sure there are cheaper. Your figure of 8.07% is not applicable to investing in property; maybe a P&I loan for a PPoR, but you can't compare PPoR's with stock and shares – PPoR's are not an investment vehicle (unless you move out and turn it into an I.P), while stocks and shares are an investment vehicle.

    If I had a million tied up in the stock market I would be nervous. If I have a million tied up in property I can sleep like a baby. Why?
    Because I know that my properties are totally insured, and they will be there in the morning and still worth what they were last night. I have total control over the investment. A well selected, well positioned and managed/maintained property never goes down in value; even during corrections. There are plenty of properties that lose a stack in value during a correction; you read about them in the papers, but the average house, for the average family, in the average suburb just keeps going up no matter what.

    It's hard to compare apples with apples too; you can leverage higher with property than with shares if you are using the share or property as the security on the loan to fund the purchase, so this makes comparisons harder.

    What are you basing the 'better gains' on with stocks? What index are you using with the stocks, and is it an averaged gain across the whole index? What time-frame are you using to analyse the gains, and what amount of money are you using? By this I mean that you can buy $5k worth of stocks with cash, but you can't buy a property with $5k. So you have to leverage to get into property even at the base level.

    So if we use the exact same cash deposit and leverage factor that applies to each investment vehicle (shares and property), which would return the most money, taking into consideration all the aspects of the investment; depreciation, fees, rental income, dividends, averaged cap growth over a given period; say, the last 100 years?

    For example, if we have 2 people, both earning $100k gross per year, gave each a $50k cash amount, and said to one invest in property, the other invest in shares, leverage as much as you can to aquire as much as you can using the same bank, using the investments they wish to buy as the security on the loans, then did an analysis after 20 years, and took into account all the costs, fees and returns from rent, tax returns, dividends, cap growth etc.

    They re-invest all profits and tax returns and dividends into the loans. My guess is the cash on cash return and the internal return of property will win, and it's safe.

    Having said that, I am not averse to shares; I have some equity set aside waiting for the next stock market crash (next 2 years I reckon) so I can buy up a few of the wrecks. You have to take opportunities if they arise.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    O.I.E,
    The only time I can remember when the Govt caused house prices to be cheaper was when they stopped neg gearing on I.P's as a tax deduction back in the '80's. There was a fairly bad correction of house prices, and as all the investors were off-loading their non-tax deductible neg geared I.P's, there was a massive shortage of rental properties which caused the rents to skyrocket.
    Nice one Paul and Bob.
    They reversed the decision not long after this thank god.
    Every time they introduce a new scheme to help out the first home buyers, or to generally try to keep prices down for all, it results in more cash available to buy houses, so then there are suddenly more people around wanting to buy with more money to spend. Demand is then on the increase, but stock doesn't always follow suit, and so the prices go up and absorb any of the 'savings' handed down from the suits. Good for investors – more cap growth.
    The Govt should stay out of it, other than to cut back on stamp duty (good luck – too much of a cash cow).
    Cutting back Stamp Duty won't make houses more affordable really, but it will at least get rid of some of the disgraceful rort that stamp duty is.
    If it wasn't for the stamp duty from the last boom, Bracksy would have REALLY stuffed up the Vic economy. He did well despite himself.
    Don't get me started on the water shortage – what's a dam? Thanks Bracksy and Thwaitesy. I know; let's hope it rains a lot.

    As for the interest rate rises; I think it is out of the Govt hands; with our consumer economy continuing to roll along like an out of control train, the fed has no choice but to keep putting up the rates a little every few months to slow everyone down.
    And of course; Xmas is only a couple of months away – more maxed out credit cards in Jan. That will cause another rae rise in Feb I'm guessing.

    The other possible solution is what is happening here in the US; so many people over-extended and continuing to do so; they go broke, have to foreclose the house, the housing market stalls, the people can't spend as much (but god, they find ways to keep trying) and the economy slows. No more interest rate rises for a while.

    .

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Yeah, a lot of the reno kings stuff was written during the early '90's boom. They were also high profile during the last boom.
    They have some great ideas, but remember the types of markets you are dealing with. Adding value in a slump is hard to do, unless you can buy well under market price.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    First thing after starting to aquire knowledge (which is a never-ending quest) is to get the finances in order.
    Start to adopt the mindset of a business owner; run budgets for your personal finances, keep records of expenditure.
    Banks like to see clients who are in control of their money, have good savings history.
    Establish what your likely borrowing capacity might be, start to look at the markets, learning the prices and values, establish what strategy you may want to go with; are you going to be a flipper, a buy and holder etc, and what types of properties you may want to target.
     

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Good post O.I.E, thanks for that.

    How many years have you been investing this way for now?

    Have you ever had a property that didn't perform, i.e it didn't realise any cap growth in the 1-2 years that you hold them before selling? If so, how did it impact your cashflow (assuming it was a neg cashflow)?

    So, are you a trader, or flipper; or do you do a bit of buy and hold as well?

    If you continually buy then sell, what happens to your nett profit; do you re-invest all of it into the next project, or do you re-direct some of it into some other investment vehicle? What I'm getting at is how do you continue to keep accumulating wealth?

    You didn't say what type of properties they were that you bought; I assume it would be houses because you said no units due to lack of land content, so is it a specific kind of house (eg; 3 x 2), does it have to have subdivision potential, etc.

    So would you say a good chunk of your D.D would be trying to find properties for sale that are well under market price and needing a make-over? How do select your target properties?

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    DON"T GET ME STARTED!!  oops; you did.

    I am a Jenman fan also Tarae, have read all his books and read his website info every other day. I have already bought and sold several properties, and was an agent myself for a time.

    Not everyone likes Neil; he is outspoken and 'takes no prisoners', but someone needs to be doing it, and he has helped many people save money (including me). He has also been instrumental in rescuing many people from terrible rip-offs at the hands of spruikers, conmen and some agents; even lawyers (usually all colluding to do the rip-off).

    Also read "13 Real Estate Mistakes" by Neil, and "Confessions of a Real Estate Agent" Terry Ryder (a lawyer; look up his r/e investing website; HotSpotting.com.au)

    With advertising, in most cases it is a waste of YOUR money. If you look at the r/e pages of any major newspaper on the weekends, or visit realestate.com, or go to the agent's websites, there will be an enormous amount of houses of all price ranges and configurations to buy. There will advertising banners for the agencies plastered all over the place. The main benefit of all that advertising is for the agents – not you.

    I can promise you; the buyers are already looking on the websites, driving the streets looking for signs in frontyards, walking up and down the main streets looking in the agents' windows (have you noticed how many agencies are grouped together?).

    All you need is a few flyers for the front desk of the agency, a picture and description in the window and a picture and description on the internet. max cost: $100 for flyers. The photos will be free. The buyers WILL find your property. The agents will always try to sell you the benefits of spending lots on ads. It's all BS.

    Commissions are negotiable, and it is one of my personal gripes that an agent (the agency) can get $12,500 for selling a $500k house, and then do the exact same amount of work (or maybe less) to sell a $1 mill house and earn double the money! This is a disgrace; the average person cannot improve their income at all over a year unless their boss gives them a pay rise, but by virtue of a rising market the agents can become rich. Why should they earn so much more for the sale of the same product with the same amount of work? Offer them 1.5%. And don't be put off by the saying 'you pay peanuts; you get monkeys'. That's BS as well. Agents need ANY listing to make a sale, and if they get an enquiry to buy your house, do you think they won't try because they are only getting $18k instead of $30k? They'll be trying; don't worry.

    Maybe structure their payment; 1.5% up to $1 mill, then offer more if you wish if they achieve the desired price (that they quoted you). Anyone can sell a house for less than the asking price. If they want 2.5% make them earn it. You can even offer to pay a fixed amoun to sell the place. Agents don't like this, but as I said; the commission is negotiable and if they don't accept your offer you can change it or ask another agent.

    The problem is, most people only sell maybe one or two houses in their lives, so don't know what can be done in the process of hiring an agent and buying/selling houses. Lack of knowledge is expensive.

    At this point all the agents reading this will be up in arms and saying " but most agents only earn an average income!"
    Well, my answer to that is; it's your chosen profession – the majority of the planet is earning an average wage or worse. If you can't earn a lot of money as an agent and don' like that, then find another job.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Hey Chris,

    A '3 x 2' is a 3 bed, 2 bathroom house.

    Another good indicator to look at is a '2 x 1'. For me this means a unit, for some it is a 2 bed, 1 bathroom house, but I don't know of many investors buying  this size house unless there is significant 'add value' potential by way of reno or subdivision.

    For new investors with limited funds, a 2 x 1 unit is probably the easier property to go for and is always in demand, but the 'add value' options are also more limited.

    I can't remember the exact date for the cut-off; I think it is in October. I just cut it off at 1988 to make it simple, but I normally look at something built a bit later anyway; in the '90's. These places easily qualify, and quite often need a spruce-up.

    You will be surprised how bad some newer houses can look after a few years of tenants (and owners), and the good news is, the worse they look, the better they come up after a reno. There will be plenty you can do with renos; the only limit will be your imagination and budget. Keep an eye out for places with really bad gardens too. This is an area where the transformation can be dramatic.

    Keep in mind that any exterior structual changes will need council approval if it is a house, and many units are controlled by Body Corps, and they forbid you to change anything without B.C approval. But inside there is more freedom.
    Be careful that if you decide to knock out a wall that you are not doing it on a 'load-bearing' one.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    kenzel wrote:
    Must be built after 1987 (preferrably 5-15 years old), to maximise Tax Returns and cashflow from "on-paper" deductions.

    Thanks LA Aussie! I did some research and just found that you can actually claim Building Allowance of 2.5% of the construction cost – I never knew that! This property investing jazz is really sucking me in :)

    One question though, when buying a property how does one find out the construction cost and when it was built?

    Ken

    It sounds as though you are getting excited Ken. I remember the first time I heard about the 'special building write-off" I couldn't believe it. WOOHOO!! I think I said from memory.
    It is a very overlooked aspect of property investing, and often not mentioned when people start to compare returns between property and other investment vehicles.
    The 2.5% yearly deduction runs for 40 years from the date of construction (completion).
    When I start to ring agents about the properties I select, one of the first questions I ask them is when the construction date of the building was.  Most of the time they don't know, but they usually will try to find out. Agents who are experienced with dealing with investors will know the answer to that question. I then tell them not to show me anything older than the cut-off date with future properties that they may want to show me.
    Sometimes it is written on the Certificate of Title, and if not, you can check with the local Council about the date.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Hey Chris,

    You can either do a lot of driving, or a lot of surfing.
    With the interenet, you can see an area instantly, and get a thumbnail sketch of the state of the market in that area by firstly looking at the selling prices of the type of properties you would like to buy, then looking at the avarage rent returns for that type of property. You can do both those things on realstate.com by looking ip "for sale" and then "for rent" in the same area/suburb.
    If the rent returns look healthy,then the area warrants further investigation, and this is where the real work starts.
    I look at the price of 3 x 2 houses as my first guide, then look at the rent returns they get. It doesn't have to be a 3 x 2 that you look for, but I find that this is a very common property and easier to judge against. In 5 mins I can tell if there is any point continuing with the area.
    After I establish if the rent return is decent enough, (and usually it won't be exactly what I want – but it will be close) then the real D.D starts and I begin to apply the Criteria I mentioned earlier to narrow down the search.
    You need to do things like look up the local council websites, ring several local agents (if there aren't many that may be a bad sign), check for recent sales history, ask about demographics – you can even pay for a report on such things on the RPData site or Residex. You can even get a basic suburb snapshot from realestate.com in some instances.

    By now I have been on the phone to agents regularly and they get to know you and they start to be more helpful and direct to you towards better deals. On this point; you need to tell them VERY specifically what your criteria is, otherwise they will annoy you with other properties that are unsuitable. Give them the guidelines and let them go.

    There is a great section in Margaret Lomas's latest book "A Pocket Guide to Investing in Positive Cashflow Property'. The section is called "The 20 questions you must ask". This will help a lot.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    I agree with F about the cheaper property, but not the 100% financing;
    many people go for the more expensive, and quite often new, luxury townhouses, apartments etc., thinking it will be a better investment. They are not necessarily so.
    Staying well within your means (especially for the first one will quite often be just as good an investment; you can usually get better rent returns with the cheaper properties, there are more renters for that price range and the financial stress (especially to get finance) is less. 
    My personal view is that when beginning investing (or even for experienced investors) if you need to get more than an 80% loan (LVR of 80%) which usually requires Mortgage Insurance as well,  then your financial position is heading towards precarious. Life happens and sometimes you need to sell quickly, and if you are over-exposed this can be a disaster.
    With a $30k deposit, that puts you in the $150k purchase price category which doesn't buy a lot these days unless you look to country and regional areas.
    So you have 2 choices;
    1. borrow more (not F's or my preference)
    2. keep saving the deposit until you can buy a more expensive property without going over the 80% LVR and have to pay Mortgage Insurance. 

    Some will argue against this, but I would like to see your first plunge a safe one.

    Profile photo of L.A AussieL.A Aussie
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    Good plan kenzel,
    Not a lot of people have done what you are planning to do; especially at your age. It's a bit outside the box for many; you will join the 5% and not the 95% if you take action.
    After you move out of the new property you buy and put in tenants, you will be able to continue renting it for up to 6 years before becoming liable for Cap Gains Tax should you ever wish to sell.
    Don't forget to take out Landlord's insurance and a good idea is to buy something relatively new (not brand new) so you will be paying fair market price and there will be still excellent depreciation from the building, fixtures and fittings. A Quantity Surveyor is needed to prepare a Depreciation Schedule which you then give to your accountant. The D.S is invaluable when you start off to maximise your cashflow from the property.

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