Being an eternal pessimist, I wouldn’t count on the FHOG being around too far into the future. There used to be one years ago which finished just before we bought our first place, then it came back a few years later by which time it was no good to us as we were no longer first home owners. If you can’t see yourself buying a bigger place for a couple of years it may pay to take advantage of the FHOG while you know it is still available. Just a thought.
You need to weigh up the transaction costs & CGT (& time/headache) of selling, then rebuying a new IP at a later date versus the interest savings of your PPOR loan. There is also the lost opportunity for capital growth of your IP. This is the same answer as Derek’s in essence – it has to make a big difference to your PPOR loan interest savings and payback time to be worth doing. Are there any more liquid assets (eg shares, fancy set of wheels) which could be sold & applied against the loan? Also, don’t forget your rental income from the IPs plus your work-related income should go up over time which will accelerate your repayments.
Also, have a read of this thread: https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/getting-technical/finance/4327007
It may give you some ideas on accelerating your home loan paydown by capitalising some of your IP loan interest. I’m not an expert – contact the guys on the thread (Richard Taylor &/or TerryW) if you want to pursue something like this.
I think the idea is to get both parts of the split (which, since one of them doesn’t have street frontage, both have to go together anyway), then realign the split so that both blocks now have street access – this now gives you 2 blocks which can be sold independently. The bonus is, apparently, that you don’t have to pay the massive contribution fees to council as it is a boundary realignment rather than creation of a new block.
Your best bet is to find a local town planner as this sounds like a specialist area where you could lose a bunch of money very quickly if things don’t go to plan.
Good to see you getting going. A couple of things:
1) Talk to an accountant who is experienced with property investment before you start. I think you will lose a 50% CGT discount if you sell within a year, so yes – bigger tax bill.
2) Don’t listen to a real estate agent when it comes to anything which could cost you money. As a generalisation, their primary (and often only) motivation is to sell the property and make their commission and will tell you what you want to hear to close the deal. Talk to a builder or similar to get a cost.
3) Read posts on forums about mixing friendship & business. It can kill a good friendship if you don’t get good advice up front (and sometimes even if you do). For example, if you go 50/50 on all costs, but one of you does all the running around to get renos done you will have friction.
4) Make sure you know what your selling price is likely to be and all your costs in between – it is pretty hard to make money on buy/renovate/sell as your transaction costs (stamp duty, bank fees, legals, agent fees, capital gains tax etc) chew away at the profit margins. Even it it all looks good on paper, a cost blowout on a small part of the reno (eg changing electric oven, electrician says wiring not up to it and refuses to certify until circuit is rewired and boards upgraded) can kill any profits.
Oh yes – not thinking straight and regurgitating the banker’s line. So you would extract equity on 1st via LOC then standalone loan secured solely on property held in trust, using LOC as required to cover deposit & LVR requirements on trust property – keeps things a bit cleaner?
No one in their right mind would be setting up loans without talking to a mortgage broker experienced in property investment
trustmagic.com has some really good info. The ebook costs the same as 6-7minutes from a good lawyer.
I haven’t done this yet myself, but I spoke to my bank contact earlier today and there is no problem using equity in one property held in your own name to secure a loan held in a trust’s name.
I can’t answer your second question definitively, but I’m pretty sure the answer is, yes you can transfer assets into a trust but you are almost certainly going to get hit with CGT and stamp duty on the transfer as it is effectively change of ownership from one legal entity (you) to another legal entity (the trust). In fact, if your offer & acceptance (or equivalent depending on state) has your own name and you try to change it before settlement to the name of the trust you can end up paying double stamp duty – see https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/property-investing/help-needed/4332359
I only bought it recently and I am now confident about the questions to ask my accountant in a couple of weeks’ time, and also have a good idea of what structures make sense for me. I will re-read 3-4 chapters just before going in to talk to my accountant because some of it is quite technical (eg the different roles involved, essential items to cover in the trust deed), but more than just how to structure it talks a lot about the day-to-day mechanics of operating the structure – eg how to go about borrowing, what minutes you need to write when to support certain expenditures, trust tax returns, tax deductions.
It may or may not make you totally comfortable with what structure to go with but it will give you the language and concepts you need to have a cost effective discussion with an accountant and/or lawyer, and also give you most of the tools you need to do cost/return comparisons against different holding entities. It isn’t specifically about property investing and doesn’t get into land tax issues etc, but does also talk about running other businesses within a trust structure. There are plenty of pictures which show the relationships between the entities and the typical money flow.
If you want to get educated before seeing a lawyer or talking to an accountant I have found this to be very useful: http://www.trustmagic.com.au/ – $55 for the ebook – so that’s 6 minutes and and 36 seconds of lawyer time! He also has some links to practitioners in this area.
Looks like someone asked a month ago – have a look at https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/getting-technical/legal-accounting/4332979?page=1&highlight=Lawyer%2CMelbourne. Not a lot of help, I know, but should get you started. Does it have to be Melbourne? These days it is pretty easy to work remotely, in which case Rob Balanda on the Gold Coast may be able to point you to an expert. He is a well known lawyer in property investing circles and is an active property investor himself so will have almost certainly come across your situation.
You may find that a good accountant with plenty of property investing experience can provide the advice you need. The info on the post linked to above should point you in the right direction – you may need to do a bit of googling to find the websites and contact details of those mentioned.
A google search on, for example, “NSW land tax calculator” will give you what you need. The office of state revenue typically has a calculator online to help – eg NSW has one at http://www.apps05.osr.nsw.gov.au/erevenue/calculators/landtax.php, but you have to read the fine print as the meaning of taxable value and exemptions vary from state to state.
If you are looking for CF+ property and are developing a land tax problem in a particular state you can also look at optimising “cash flow density” – ie rent received per unit of taxable value – land tax is generally applied on the value of unimproved (ie vacant) land so if you have a bunch of units on a small block, rent will be high but land tax will be low.
I don’t know of good lawyers in Melbourne – I know there are Melbourne based mortgage brokers on the forums who may be able to point you in the right direction.
With crunching the numbers it is all about triage – you have to look at quite a few (eg 50) properties to find one where the numbers stack up so you need a “fast numbers” approach to get rid of 90% of them quickly – that is what the 11 second rule is all about, or the 1% rule in the new edition (p218). With the remaining 10% you need to dig a little deeper. For example, body corporate on a unit can drive your costs right up and completely change the returns. That will then leave the one that you may put an offer on – you then need to refine again to look at rates, insurance costs (essential – don’t skimp here), property manager fees etc. If you are doing a reno you need to cost that too. You can put a due diligence clause in your offer (talk to a lawyer to get a good one) to do this detailed analysis _after_ you have made an offer so you can take your time on this without having competition for the property. Look in the index for “cash-on-cash return” for some examples of crunching numbers in detail. You need to be totally comfortable with numbers to be successful so while you are growing your deposit practice on a few properties a week. You will also learn to see a “great deal” quickly by doing this.
Sort out your buying structure (eg JV, trust, whatever) well ahead of making any offers as it can cost a lot (ie another lot of stamp duty) to change the name on a contract.
Cash flow in the ‘burbs of Melbourne can be tough and you often have to create the deal rather than find it. For example, in NSW you can put a granny flat in the backyard without too much hassle (subject to council approval etc) and for, say an extra $70K, pull in another $300 pw in rent which may make an otherwise uninteresting deal generate a lot more cash flow. In Brisbane you can split surprisingly small blocks in half and build a townhouse or similar – again, potentially improving the cash flow. These are good examples of the need for due diligence – it would be really bad to settle on a property only to find you can’t put a granny flat there after all. You will need to research, typically via council web-sites or town planners, what is possible in Melbourne. As another example, in Qld you can rent out rooms in a large house individually up to a certain limit before needing a rooming house license – renting room by room is more cash flow but probably more headaches. Don’t end up as the evil landlord forcing recent migrants to live in squalor though – you don’t need to do this to make a $.
To find cash flow potential areas have a look at the rental yield tables at the back of a copy of Australian Property Investor magazine (there is a new publication with better rental yield tables but I can’t remember what it is called – both will be in your local newsagent). That will give you some pointers to candidate suburbs. You should also think about what drives demand – for example, what would attract someone to live in Lilydale over Noble Park or vice versa? Ease of transport? Availability of employment? Have a think about what may change demand. For example, Port Melbourne got some nice new landscaping & cafes etc (actually a full urban renewal) a few years ago which drove increased demand back then. Car factories shutting down may kill off demand in the neighbouring suburbs (just ask homeowners in Detroit about how messy that can get). You want your property to be viable for years and long term demand is what drives that so you should give it some thought. Hospitals are good because the government doesn’t spend money on them without doing far more analysis on demand than you or I could ever do. They also bring with them lots of doctors & nurses who are reasonably well paid and want places to rent.
Then it is a matter of narrowing down to individual properties and doing the work. Don’t forget, too, that your negotiating skills can, within reason, improve the cash flow performance by bringing the buy price down and your reno skills can improve the cash flow by improving the property thereby improving the rental yield. You’ll find that quite a lot of investors don’t talk specifically about their favourite hot suburbs as they may have spent many months or years researching down to target streets within target suburbs and they don’t want too much buying competition. You can buy generic research which points to specific suburbs from guys like residex & hotspotting – they have more depth than the Australian Property Investor tables but that depth obviously comes at a price.
Do you have much in the way of savings yet? If you go into a JV with a mate you will need to get some good legal advice to structure the JV agreement properly so that you stay best mates and this advice will cost money. Same goes for trust structures. (“Trust Magic” – search for it online – will give you some insight on how trusts work). Depending on your financial interest in the deal (ie if you are contributing money as well as time) you are going to have to borrow too and without a deposit and working casual that is going to get difficult. Sounds like you are talking to a mortgage broker first – a good plan I think. If you need to build up savings this may have a long lead time but you will only find out how much once you have spoken to them. Living with your mother will help!
I have used buyers advocates but I am employed full time in a job that has a lot of international travel so I am happy to pay for someone to do the research. If I wasn’t travelling so much I would do the work myself as the fees do eat into returns, but not acting eats into the returns even more! Also, if you look at hours required to source a property and multiply by your earning rate it may pay to use one (ie if you are a doctor or lawyer or electrician ). Whether you use a buyers advocate or not, you still need to do the numbers on a deal yourself so you should have a go at running numbers on a few properties that interest you. There are good books out there which show you how – Steve McKnight has an accounting background so his books are probably stronger than most on the financial analysis of deals. If you use the forums search function you can find contacts for most of the key roles – either as contributors to the forums or other recommendations.
I would also recommend learning about the negotiation process. It’s easy to blow a _lot_ of dough in a short space of time through lack of negotiating skills. Rob Balanda has done a good CD on this – his techniques made me an extra $15K last week over where I would normally have stopped a negotiation. You can probably get the same info from the library if you have time on your hands and you want to save $150.
Sorry – I meant to also say that I can’t comment on the trust structure that you are proposing – I’ll need to leave that to someone more expert – I’m just saying be careful around the personal services income.
I’m not an accountant but if your husband’s company is essentially personal services income you may want to check on the ATO’s “alienation of personal services income” provisions – the ATO doesn’t like structures which distribute $/hr worked type income from the person earning it to others to minimise tax. If there is warranty risk associated with the income or the amount paid doesn’t reflect hours worked (eg fixed price work) then you may be ok – check with an accountant before going too far down this track though.
Congratulations on wanting to get going on property investing so early!
You should read up, ask questions etc to learn, but the best education is getting your hands dirty with your first property. Nothing beats having $200-400K on the line to focus your learning. As they say, “Experience is the best teacher, but it unfortunately sometimes kills the student” so the trick is to start with something that won’t sink you financially if it goes bad. The best way to avoid being sunk is not to borrow beyond your capacity – there are plenty of mortgage brokers on the forums who can help you with that. The main thing is to start – the biggest impediment, in my opinion, to any form of success is over-planning and not enough action. (You should still plan though ). Find someone who has done it before and buy them a coffee every now and then and run through what you are thinking of doing – that can save some pain too. Again, there are plenty of people on the forums who are happy to chew over ideas and help people be successful.
We started 10 years ago and our first IP was pretty uninteresting – slightly negative geared until around year 5 when it hit breakeven – but safe and we’ve made $200K on it. $200K we wouldn’t have made if we didn’t start. We like to think we’re a little more sophisticated now and will be starting some developments in the next couple of months but we wouldn’t be able to do that if we hadn’t made the boring, safe start 10 years back and started understanding the process in a way that you can’t from reading a book or talking to people.
You could read up some more on what different trust structures deliver in terms of advantages and also additional costs (http://www.trustmagic.com.au/ is great for this – very small investment for a whole lot of information – there are plenty of ideas in there on how to leverage trust structures harder than what you generally hear about and if you pull your credit card out you could be reading about them pretty well straight away as you can download it as an ebook).
You could crunch the numbers based on the knowledge you gain from your research and look at the decision from a purely financial perspective ignoring risk etc.
Finally, you could & should find an accountant and/or lawyer knowledgeable in these structures and pay for some professional advice as there are lots of variables, including your personal risk appetite, the risks you run in your employment, family situation etc, etc which go into making this kind of decision. For example, if you water plants at a nursery for a living then your risk of being sued for professional negligence is probably a lot lower than if you are an accountant providing trust structure advice to a property investor, so the value of using trusts for risk management is correspondingly lower. Professional advice is cheap compared with what you can blow if you get it wrong, so don’t skimp. I’d pay $500/hr for the best every time over $300/hr for an also ran – just the $1000-$1500pa running costs of a trust make 45mins advice a bargain.
Before you take advice from a professional try to educate yourself to the level that you know what you are asking them and why.
ABS just released this: http://www.ausstats.abs.gov.au/ausstats/nrpmaps.nsf/NEW+GmapPages/national+regional+profile
May be handy for zoning in on areas – it has population estimates, income estimates etc for 2004-2008 so can help with some trending but obviously misses 2 critical years. It doesn’t unfortunately, go into individual towns either – for example, Blackwater gets lumped in with a few other small towns. An excellent resource all the same.