Forum Replies Created
Hi guys,
Kooringal, while I sympathise with your predicament – I really do – I have to respectfully disagree with the method that Chandara has suggested.
Firstly, the valuer’s job is not to get the highest or lowest value for the client. The valuer’s job, and the valuer’s duty to the client, is to arrive at a fair and reasonable value.
Secondly, even if a valuer is “local”, wouldn’t he or she still have to do some homework in order to be satisfied with the valuation that you want? It’s a chicken and egg thing. You’re telling the valuer that you won’t hire them unless they agree with the valuation they want, but if they are to do their job properly, they can’t say yes without doing the work they would have to do to arrive at a valuation.
Thirdly, if there are in fact valuers who are willing to accommodate the method you described (ie agree on a value over the phone or without thoroughly researching comparable recent sales in order to get the job), then wouldn’t that degrade the integrity of valuations?
Don’t get me wrong – I totally agree with what Chandara and others said about getting the research done and providing written evidence, as well as doing your best to persuade the valuer to agree with your opinion on your property’s valuation. But it’s this “valuer-shopping” that worries me. One of the key causes for the finance brokers scandal in WA (where thousands of investors, many of them retirees and pensioners, lost their life savings investing on dodgy property development deals with pumped up valuations) were valuers who were prepared to compromise their integrity in exchange for getting the job. I’m not saying it’s going to come to this, but if more and more valuers started doing this kind of thing, the reliability and credibility of valuations will start becoming eroded.
That’s just my view. You obviously have the prerogative to adopt a different view.
Cheers
MI’ll be getting one too – but I’ll buy it from the bookshop. I don’t think I can wait for it to arrive in the post!
Hey you think you’re addicted? Check out the time on some of my posts…
Man need to get some sleep…
all the best brownwombat – let us know how you go!
Cheers
MHey vluu27
I’m sorry to hear of your predicament.
I suggest that you make a journal of all your dealings with PCG – write down the details of every single meeting and telephone conversation you had with them. Try to remember dates (even if it’s a month if you can’t remember the exact date), names and even times, if possible.
That’ll help you if these people try to take it further.
It seems from their conduct that they may have in fact agreed to release you from the contract, if there was ever one in the first place.
As for your credit record – if they have no reasonable basis for putting an adverse report on your record and they do so, I’d call that defamatory conduct.
they’re probably trying to scare or bully you into paying up. In my view, you need to do something to show them that you’re putting up a fight. Ignoring it isn’t going to make them go away – you’ll just be sending them the message that they can keep hounding you with minimal risk of any consequences for their actions. But bluster and angry words is a waste of time too – it needs to be something effective.
One example is to get a lawyer to write them a nasty letter. However, it’s going to cost money to do so, and if they still keep hounding you, it’ll cost more money to defend any claim by them, and to right any wrongs that they do to you.
Best thing to do is to take up Richmond’s offer – onya Richmond (BTW my sympathy to you for having to work the entire weekend – I missed your Eagles-Hawthorn commentary, unfortunately)
Cheers
MI can honestly say that every single financial adviser that or anyone I know have consulted has universally shied away from property investments other than the family home, and instead strongly recommend investments in managed funds and shares.
Call me a cynic, but I think ksheather is right – because they don’t get a cut from recommending investments in property, most FPs don’t have any interest in doing so, and in fact don’t, as proven from my experience and the experience of people I know.
There is this couple I know who have 5 positive cashflow investment properties – they went to a “reputable” adviser, who told them that they were “overweight” in properties, and that they should sell at least 2 or 3 and invest the money in shares, some of it leveraged using margin loans. This was about 2 years ago, before the property boom came to WA in a big way. Fortunately, they gave him the flick and didn’t follow his advice.
Cheers
MI’ve heard of this too, but I know exactly how oyu need to structure things in order not to run foul of the self-managed superannuation fund restrictions. One of those restrictions is that you can’t mortgage superannuation assets. If you stuff up and break the rules, your super fund will become non-conforming, and you could get slapped with 48.5% tax on the entire value of your super fund!!
The moral of the story is to make sure you get sound tax advice from properly qualified professionals.
Cheers
MOh well – it’s all a learning experience.
Feel free to ask more questions!
Hi Hamster,
My WA accountant said the same thing to me – I didn’t pay too much attention to the details, because I’m not planning to sell until after I retire. I think there’s a technicality in the ITAA which gives you some CGT exemption.
It’s definitely worthwhile checking it out before you do anything, because you’ll probably have to ensure that you structure it properly.
Cheers
MI’ve been trying to do this for a block where I own a unit. It’s harder said than done, I’ve found, since everyone wants top dollar for their unit. I think it’s much easier for smaller blocks. But I’ve seen it done for fairly big blocks before. And yes, the selling prices are substantially more, and people actually buy it.
One idea you might want to consider is to buy up an old motel and redo it as an apartment block.
Cheers
MHi Fishoholic,
“Releasing” the equity in your home simply means that you put it up as collateral for a loan you take out to buy another property.
For example, your home is $380k. Assuming it’s fully paid off, 80% is $304k.
You want to buy another property for $300k. 80% is $240k.
This means that you could borrow 100% of the purchase price of the property + costs, let’s say a total of $315,000.
The bank will lend you up to 80% of the value of your collateral without charging mortgage insurance (which is around 1-1.5% of the loan amount).
So you borrow $315,000, and put up your 2 properties (ie the one you now own and the one you’re buying) as collateral for the loan, giving a total collateral value of $680.
This means your borrowing LVR is only about 47% (ie $315k divided by $680k), so there’s no problems getting the loan!!
And no, you don’t give the bank ownership of ANY of your properties. You still own all the properties you have and you buy. The bank simply slaps on a mortgage over your properties, which secures the repayment of its loans to you.
Cheers
MThat’s great TrueBlue – sounds like a good example of self-management done the right way. But how much time do you have to spend on managing the properties? I work fulltime (hopefully not for too many more years), and it’s hard enough for me to find time to sort out my own stuff, let alone manage tenants.
Cheers
MYou’re welcome Kavita – keep asking those questions!
I own my property in my own name, but am investigating putting future purchases into a trust structure for various benefits.
A lot of people have been recommending Chris Batten’s report – http://www.chrisbatten.com.au
I’ve ordered one, but haven’t received it yet, so I can’t say for sure whether it’ll work for me.
Might be worthwhile for you to check out.
At the end of the day, after you’ve done as much research as you can, nothing beats getting a good accountant (and lawyer, if need be) to sort you out.
Cheers
Mpicjal,
I thought I was on the 110% loan. But I’ll go home and check, and let you know.
Wow that is cheap, especially for all the benefits that you’d get from using an agent (which everyone else has already posted on). Also, agents will usually be able to get you access to really cheap landlord’s insurance (I think it could be less than $100 per year in some cases).
I would only manage a property myself if I was renting to a close family member.
Westan is right – don’t just give up when you’re so close!
I was paying around 8.5% on my Liberty loan, as recently as June 2003.
I’m still looking to buy, although I’m extremely fussy about what I buy, and always set a realistic price limit on what I’m prepared to offer.
But I have to admit, it is very hard to find a property where the vendors don’t expect to get $20 to $30K more than the market price.
Hi wombat,
The strength of your bargaining position really depends on how your termite clause is worded.
From experience, most termite clauses usually let the seller walk away if he or she doesn’t want to pay to fix the problem.
If your termite clause doesn’t really help, then it’s up to negotiations to try to come up with a win-win situation.
I would have thought that if you’re offering a good price, and the cost of repair is too high, there might be some scope to renegotiate the terms of the contract.
However, I strongly suggest that you get a solicitor to help you get the amendments to the contract done properly, so that it’s watertight. Otherwise, you might not be doing yourself any favours, especially if you really want to buy the property. Let me put this value proposition to you – what are the legal costs (probably less than $1,000) compared to the potential CG you’re so sure you’ll get (presumably in the tens of thoursands of dollars?)
Cheers
M