Surely if the lease expires in November 2008 then six months before expiry has passed.
Does it also say in the lease that the tenant has to notify you of their intention to take up the option or not 6 months before the lease expires?
I don't know if it's possible but you wouldn't want to get caught with the tenant claiming that you can't put up the rent because you didn't notify them of it six months before the expiration of their lease.
Whether the tenant pays everything is again dependent on the lease but usually the lease includes all outgoings.
It's certainly true that a commercial property has less day to day problems as the tenants don't ring you because a tap is dripping or the doorbell doesn't work but it still needs management.
All bills are sent to my agent who then bills the tenant. I certainly wouldn't get the bills sent directly to the tenant as you have no knowledge of whether it's been paid or not. Imagine the tenant not paying the insurance and you not being aware of it, for example. They also do inspections and make sure things get repaired/replaced/repainted if necessary specially if the tenant is leaving.
At the end of a lease period it's their job to do a market review and advise you what the market rental should be for your property and then negotiate this with the tenant if they intend to stay. If the tenant is not staying the agent puts the property on the market in time so as to minimise any vacancy period. Commercial property does not re rent as quickly as residential property specially in times of economic downturns.
There are regulations related to commercial property which even differ between classes of commercial property (retail, office, industrial) and it's up to the agent to make sure my property complies with these.
Yes it seems a nice location and if your property is as new as the one in the picture you should have some good depreciation so I hope you have a depreciation schedule.
Commercial property rental is priced by the square meter. Seeing the large difference in buying price between your property and the one in the link you posted I assume yours is smaller?
Industrial rental return is typically between 6.5 – 7.5 % depending on the length and terms of the lease and on the quality of the tenant.
Am I right in assuming that you're not using a PM.?
You might think about getting yourself one as a good one is worth the money I think. I have an industrial property the next suburb up from you, Mulgrave, and would be happy to recommend my agent who is just terrific. Very efficient.
If you're interested I can private message you the name of the agent and my PM.
Yes, you do have to add this to the rental income. However, assuming you used some/all the money to get the place well cleaned and this is an expense which you can deduct, the bottom line will not change much.
Is there any chance that I can persuade anyone to stop quoting / repeating the post above in total each time? It should be enough to either address the poster you're answering or at least just quote the relevant bit if necessary. It's easy to delete the unwanted bits from the quote.
This is a property forum and not a "Dear Dorothy Dix" one and your VERY rude post is totally out of line.
BTW Do you really believe it is illegal for a woman in the Netherlands to make an offer on anything without her husbands consent? I am not talking about whether a bank will give her a loan without her husband co signing it but simply questioning your in depth knowledge of the law.
I won't debate with you so please don't bother ranting back at me.
You can get the best of both worlds by putting down a smaller deposit ( 20% to avoid LMI ) and having an offset account coupled to your loan which houses the rest of the funds you could have used as a deposit.
You pay the same amount of interest in both scenarios and you have more flexibility. It even gives you more security as in the situations sketched out by Scott you use these funds to finance your loan until you get back to normal.
As you will see in the link below you are definitely in Caulfied despite the confusion of some REA and even Melways index ( the book not the online site)
I think CGU has an insurance policy for multiple properties, which can also cover both building and content and landlords insurance, which they claim is cheaper.
Maybe you can check it on their site.
I have no experience with it and only answered because no one else did yet.
You're right that a SMSF would suite me better and I have looked into it. Unfortunatley it's not possible because I'm OS and the trustee has to be a resident.
Elka I purchased just off Hawthorn Rd 2 bed villa unit unrenovated but in good condition with lock up garage 430k
Sounds good. I assume on the north side of Glen Huntly Rd. otherwise it's Caulfield South. The last year the prices in this area have done very well. I had bank valuations done on my properties Dec. 06 and Dec. 07 and the difference was about 30 – 35% extra. However I assume the market has stablised a bit now but should still do well in the long term.
That's assuming the $30K your talking about is net profit?. If you think you can sell the place for $30K more than you paid for it then you're talking about gross profit. From this you need to deduct the buying and selling costs (including stamp duty) and then add this amount to your normal income. As Scott said, you will then pay tax on this at your top rate.
Always good if you can reduce your normal income for the year by, for example, prepaying interest on another investment loan you may have or contributing extra to your super. Even though you lose the use of it except within super for many years at least that way you will see it again one day instead of it disappearing for ever into the coffers of the ATO. Your accountant should be able to help you here.
However, I have 3 properties in Caulfield and Caulfield Nth so am familiar with the prices. I think SD will eat away a lot if not all of that $30K. Do your figures carefully as I am not sure you will make enough to make it worth while.
Caulfield is a good area and should continue to have good CG in the long term.
May I ask what you bought, where and for how much. Of cause if you'd rather not say, no problem.
Thank you for taking the time to give me such a comprehensive answer. Much appreciated.
No the advisor did not put any $ figures on any value adding he thought he could suggest but basically summarized what we had discussed at out meeting. To be fair however I had given him a "wish list" including a minimum net retirement income that I wanted to achieve.
Basically the scope of the advice would include how to use super to get the best tax effective strategy that also meets my aims, recommend an asset allocation strategy both in and outside super including looking at my current assets, recommend specific investments again both in and out of super and do projections. Also a review of my existing super fund outlining it's pros and cons. This is just my laymans summary of a much longer letter outlining the scope of the advise I would receive.
As you say it all depends on the competence of the advisor. As I said in my first post I did go to an advisor about 18 months ago. His sole recommendation was to keep contributing enough deductible super to wipe out my tax bill each year and gave me projections to show how this would improve my financial situation. He only charged me for time spent and stated clearly what commissions he gets. However recently I spent half an hour on the phone with him persuading him that since I live OS and only have about 4 years left to be able to contribute to super (you do the maths ) since I have no way of meeting the minimum employment requirement wasn't it a good idea to at least slowly transfer my share portfolio into super even as non deductible contributions. I am not aware of any disadvantage of keeping shares within a super fund (except the 0.4% commission at Asgard) seeing as these are not shares I trade. One immediate advantage should be that the tax credits wouldn't be wasted and that I won't need to pay income tax here on the dividends. Anyway this is just one of the things that gave me the idea that he had not spent enough time thinking about his advice which is the reason I went to a second advisor
I guess I was just surprised at the difference in price originally.
Why not consider renting out your home and making this your first IP. You can do this for up to 6 years without losing its CGT free status which is a big plus.
You then get to deduct all expenses (rates, water service, insurance etc. and most importantly the interest on the loan) from your tax which should leave you better off. Also, if it's a fairly new house you should have some good depreciation which is great as this is a non out of pocket expense.
Selling this house to buy something else costs money (selling costs and then buying costs and stamp duty) so unless your house is in a poor growth area it makes better sense to me to keep it. Mind you I don't know the value of the house or the size of your loan.
Could you sell the house and buy 2 good IPs without increasing your current debt level?
It seems to me that the best way to do this would be to live in it yourself first, for as long as you need to (depends on which state you're in if you are eligible for FHOG and reduced stamp duty) and then rent it out to get all the deductions. This way you can rent out your house for up to 6 years without losing its CGT free status.
You certainly don't need to rent it to a friend for this strategy to work so you need to be certain the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.