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  • Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    There are a LOT of areas you need to be aware of, however they are not overly difficult to install-providing they have been custom built. If you are retro fitting a second hand kitchen, and need to modify it, you may wish to aproach an installer.
    New kitchens come on either a plinth or feet. If you are pretty handy, the plinth system is heaps quicker, as once you have the plinth leveled off, the carcasses go together like meccano. If they have feet, you need to adjust each unit independantly (Even the back feet, need to lay don and reach under for these) Need to screw the units together using max 28mm screws (Any biggr and you will go through the other side). Fix the units back to the walls at approx every 600mm with in 50mm screws, ensuring you fix to studs.
    Get the tops to suit. You may need to plane the backs a bit to fit.

    Out of curiosity, would it be beneficial to provide how to instructions on kitchen renovations???

    good luck with your project, feel free to get in touch if you get stuck

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    You may be in a development control precinct, which would/could prohibit certain types of extensions.
    A quick check through your local council, will soon let you know, or alternatively, get in touch with a building designer, they can do a quick check for you. Adding bedrooms and ensuites/bathrooms, will def increase your equity. We have just completed a second story extension for 56k adding a deck, wir, and ensuite, and the clients were very happy with their recent valuation. Just depends on the area!

    good luck with your project Roy

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    There isnt too much difference, unless you extend the wall adjacent to the second unit. Then you have to use a different building method/system. If you are extending away from the other duplex, then you should have no issues, providing you are not encroaching on any boundris etc

    hope this helps

    good luck

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    You can use White knight tle paint on the tiles. This looks ok, but not suitable for the basin.
    The biggest issue you may have with an old bathroom is the waterproofing. You can pretty it up all you like on the outside, but if the waterproofing is not up to scratch, then you may find you have to re-do all the work down the track. So spend as little amount as possible on a spruce up, or consider whether a new bathroom would be better value

    As renoah mentioned, sticking to neutral colours will dat better then anything too funky. Accessorise with mirrors, glass shelves, towles etc. These are a cheap option, and really lift a tired bathroom

    good luck with the project

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    The abovementioned post covers pretty much everything.
    The only add would be, if this is your first time tiling, do not use the mesh backed mosaics, as they ae inherently harder to lay than a solid tile.

    Good luck with the project, i'm sure your mum will be stoked

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    As mentioned you do make your profit when you buy. Cosmetic changes in the right area will attract an equity increase, however it can be very difficult to get a 2:1 equity yeild. When we do reno's there are two areas we look at, equity increase and rental yeild.
    For increase rent and quicker leases, we look at cosmetic changes- Paint, floorcoverings, lighting, bathroom and kitchen.
    To get a higher valuation you often need to change your market bracket- ie  if you have a 3 bed 1 bath house, and convert to a 4 bed 2 bath house, you are now in a totally different market, Sometimes these can be very simple conversions (Convert a garage and install a carport).
    Whatever tack you take, there is one rule as mentioned earlier- you make your profit when you buy

    You did nothing inherently wrong, just renovated for the one market, and you got the houses tenanted quickly. Well done!

    wish you all the best with your next project

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Let me know what you need done, happy to provide free quotes.
    If you don't have plans or permits sorted, we can help with these as well

    cheers

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    The interlocking deck sounds similar to a floating floor system.
    You can purchase paving paint from most paint shops. These are textured finish, and i believe for the price would give you the best bang for your buck. Try your Dulux trade centre.
    The whole project could come up trumps

    good luck

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Hey Paul,
    Depends on the bi-fold.
    If it is wider than the window, there will be some costly building works requred, new lintel etc
    If same size as the window then the major cost will be te bifold and install labour.
    Count on about 2 days install and rectification worksas a min

    good luck

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    get in touch, and i will put you onto one of my guys

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Carlin,
    Solid timber does need to be installed on battens. In concrete slab situations, we rip strips of 17mm ply at about 70mm wide and lay these down onto the slab (Remember it needs a moisture barrier like black plastic) The battens are then fixed to the concrete at 300mm centres. You then lay the solid or bamboo floor ontop as per normal if you secret nail. If you are going to face fix, your battens will need to be thicker.

    A floating floor essentiall clicks together, although engineered floors may be layed as a floating floor. Sold timber flooring CANNOT be layed as a floating floor.

    A floating floor is a floor which is not fixed to an substrate, hence it floats.

    You can get sound insulation from most flooring shops.

    good luck with your project

    Remember with all fitted floors to allow room for expansion, this is a requirement for all solid and engineered, floating and fixed floors.

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Paul,
    one of the cheapest is "recon". This is essentially crushed up reconstituted concrete hence the name. We use it on our sites.
    It comes in the form of gravel and can be spread, howeve after a bit of rain and compaction, it gets really hard, like baked soil.
    Often used for stabilising ground prior to paving or bituman as well. This is by far the cheapest option, and doesnt look too bad either

    good luck

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    As mentioned the only way to achieve smooth surface is to gyprock, which involves removal of all skirts and cornice then installing gyprock befre replacing cornice and skirts. Fairly costly and unlikely to get you better rent return. The wall you mentioned definately sounds like it is bagged. If you want to knock off the high points, try using a brick or besser block as a sander, and rub over the wall, this will remove alot of the swirls etc, however you will still see all of the mortar joins.

    You could also try acrylic render as this is only a few mm thick.

    When painting, don't forget to use a sealer coat first, as the paint will notkey in properly to the exposed "Mud" (Bagging material)

    good luck with the project

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Hey Boshy,
    As Propertunity has just mentioned, the black pol fencing is the way to go.
    We have just recently done exactly this for a client, and it looks fantastic. We topped the fencing with hardwood to tie it into the carport
    visit our site for pics to see how it looks.

    This however will not keep the rabbits out (Think great wall of China) as the panels need to be set off the ground. You could infill this with large stones or the like. Not sure whether domestic rabbits dig as deep as feral rabbits, but may work

    good luck

    Adrien Mamet

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Would def need permits.
    Way to many vriables which can have massive impact on costs-
    What is the roof -Tile, super six, coro?, What pitch? Trusses or rafters? Height from ground? Weight from natural ground?
    Cost could go from $40 for a two man tent pitched to your roof (Don't know about council permits here) through to $100,000

    I know this doesnt help but if you need info you it helps to be specific

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Ball park figure could go $6000 to $10000, too many variables so budget here give or take a few thou

    Sorry best i can do

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    I'm with Darren,

    Not difficult to replace yourself, but is phisically hard work. Saves on gym though.

    I believe that this is an issue that could keep you up at night, so how well do you want to sleep for the next 5 years?

    Read up on it and you can do 2 or 3 every Sat for a few weeks, should only take 3 or so hours each time. Easy days

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Stay away from the cheap imports. Most of the gearwhich comes out of china is almost impossile to put together.
    I can normally lay 200 sqm with a labourer if it is Fomica or Quick Step. These are fantastic brands, great quality and a dream to install. The chinese stuff takes me about 2 days to lay 100sqm, and that is going flat stick, so i won't touch it.

    Bamboo is a great alternative, and actuall wears better than most solid hardwood floors. Big bonus is that it is eco friendly as bamboo is a sustainable product.

    Costs

    Cheap Laminate up to $25 sqm

    Formica or quickstep to $40sqm

    Solid bamboo or timber $40 to $140 sqm

    All prices are supply only, Laying at around $22 sqm and up from there depending on type of floor.

    Hope this helps

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    Bunnings Kitchens-

    Large chains such as these are able to produce cheap kitchens and maintain profit margin, by having all of the board manufactured and cut in China. Great for the budget, however, unfortunately you get what you pay for. The board they use is very inferior to the board your local cabinet maker would use. If you so much as spill a drop of liquid, you will find your carcases bloat like roadkill on the Plenty Hwy.
    If you are confident enough to install your kitchen, then you should have no problems building the units.

    Research your local area for a small cabinet maker. They will be able to cut a flatpack kitchen out of quality materials for the same price as you will get t the chains.
    Yes, the Bunnings and Ikeas, make assembly easy etc, but if you can't put a simple box together (Base unit) then maybe rethink installing yourself, as this is actually the hard part!

    Adrien

    http://www.mametconstructions.com.au

    Profile photo of Eco BuilderEco Builder
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    We tend to rip up 70mm wide sheets of 17mm PLY. Lay black plastic down on your slab and fix these ply battens down at 450 -600 mm centres and fix every 400mm with a ramset gun. (Can use a drill and plugs if you have a loooooooot of time on your hands)

    Now lay the boards as per normal. Boards up to 85mm can be secret nailed. ANything wider "Should" have 1 or 2 face fixed nails depending on width, but we use a combination of direct stick to the joists and secrewt nailing.These secret nailers can be hired.
    Also don't forget to allow a 12mm gap around the walls and expansion joints for every 10 L/M or 100 S/QM. If you don't the boards could buckle. Allow these boards to sit on site for a few weeks prior to laying as well, this allows them to get acclimatised. Just as critical for recycled as it is for new boards

    good luck with the project

    Adrien Mamet

    http://www.mametconstructions.com.au

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