Hey Made_Man,

What size was your granny flat?

One thing to note is safety.

We often see many people do their own painting, which involves paint prep.

For your own safety, and that of your family – conduct a simple paint test and check to make sure that the paint already on the walls is not lead based paint.

Sanding of lead based paints allows lead to enter he bloodstream causing all sorts of health issues.

Kids are most at risk as they are constantly putting things in their mouths, and are more likely to ingest lead!

lead test kits are sold at most paint stores and hardware stores!

As mentioned above, you CAN build for $800 per SQ/M.

We offer Granny Flat Kits that come in below this price!

That said, it does NOT include floor coverings, services, councils etc.

This price will get you a fully compliant Granny Flat to Lock up Stage –

That is internal and external linings, doors and windows are in-

You would still need to source services and joinery (Kitchen etc)

We supply our Granny Flat Kits as a total package, and they are built from SIPS

These panels allow you to build much faster than the average timber frame and brick dwelling.

Our 60sq/m model takes around 3-4 days to build to lock up stage.

So yes – it can be done, but there will be compromises along the way.

Our Kits have been designed with the budget conscious in mind.

They are a very basic unit, however they can be clad in just about any style cladding you like as your budget allows!

So it really depends on what you are expecting as a final result!

Don’t know if you have already done the job or not.
It is not load bearing, so you are safe there.
There doesnt seem to be any services visible.
These nib walls are really easy to remove.
We try to keep them intact, as it is easier to transport in a whole wall, tiles still attached etc.
you remove the shower rail, and then you need to start levering the wall away from the floor and the attached wall using a pinch bar. Once the wall has been removed/detached, we get our huge Kiwi labourer in and he picks up the wall and takes it to the bin.
if you don’t have a front rower at your disposal, remove the tiles and the sheets in sections.
If you use a large screwdriver and hammer, you can usually work the point of the screwdriver between the substrate and the timber frame, then work in a pinch bar and carefully loosen the substrate.
Remember to use gloves and goggles, as the tiles can splinter, throwing little shards, and the edges get very sharp!

good luck

Darklord,
i doubt you will have the space necessary as you will need to ensure the ceiling meets the fire code as set out in the BCA. This will add a min of 30 odd mm to the underside of the joists (Min)

Oddyssey

Yes, it is up to you what you do…..to a point
The insurance factor is one point
Another is that when it comes time to re-value your property, you still have a 3 bedroom home, and a HUGE  "Storage" area downstairs
However, if you went through the right channels, and everything was legit, you may have turned that 3 bedder into a legit 5 bedder with media room.
Not an expert, but pretty sure there would be a significant increase in equity !

Hey Amazing Jeffery,
The tiles were pretty bad, as they were very drummy.
This is THE biggest issue with tiling, doesn't matter how slow and careful you are with the layout, the issue is the preparation. Some types of glue will not adhere properly to some types of waterproofing.
The BSA recently held seminars here in Bris to highlight the need for a super clean site prior to waterproof and laying of tiles.
The other issue is the look- If you decide to lay the tile yourself, and you mess the job up, even just a little bit- you cant relay the tiles. It's not like painting, where you can just keep at it till it looks right!
I have extensive experience tiling, and for this reason , i always use my qualified tiler ,  just not worth the problems.

As for what can you do to save money, and get a mickey mouse bathroom-
If you are using a builder, tell him that you want to do the demo, he will be able to organise a sparky and plumber to isolate the power and water to allow you to work safely.

If you are handy with a pinch bar and a hammer etc, do the demo yourself-
First ensure the lining is not asbestos
Next- wack on the safety gear- goggles (Sealed ones, not just glasses) gloves, and sealed shoes. The tiles get very sharp when broken and removing from substrate.
Remove all PC items, tiles, lining etc. You want to completely gut the room, and bring it back to bare timber.
 

If you are handy with a power-saw, screw gun etc
Check all of the subframe timber, and studs, and repair as necessary. Remove all dry rot, as this is like cancer for timber, and will continue to spread. You can get treatments for dryrot, to stop the process.
Double check all of your studs, make sure everything is plumb, and the room is square (As much as possible) as your tiles will highlight a room that is out of plumb or out of square.

At this stage you get the plumber and sparky in to do his/her rough in.
Regardless of budget, make sure you replace the combination for the taps, as the demo may have weakened the welds, and the last thing you want, is to spring a leak in 2 weeks time, and have to rip tiles off the walls again. Ensure your plumber changes this!

If you are handy with a tape measure and fibro shears, you can have a crack at installing the lining.
If you have a timber floor. you will need to lay tile underlay (Even for wet beds). Tile underlay for the floor requires a HUGE amount of nailing, so this is one area you can save some dollars, just spend an entire Sat on your knees, nailing down the tile underlay
(Your builder will LOVE you for it)

From here on in, the result will be visible, so you need to ask yourself whether you want to risk the job, or get a professional tiler in to do the job!

good luck with the project, hope this helps you out a bit

Have to be careful extending into the garage, as there is one major pitfall.
Some builders choose to save money by not laying plastic under the slab in the garage/carports.
If this is the case with your property, you may find issues with rising damp, and may have issues getting certification

good luck

If you are looking to take time with our reno's then go for a house or town house.
We used to get units and usually reno'ed within 2 weeks, then straight back on the market.
As mentioned above, spend money on what can be admired, and create space where you can.
There is much more to it, but if you have time, you can do so much more, and keep control of the budget

All these old houses had an alcove for the oven and fire wood.

I would definitly redo the tiles in a plain white.
The doors and end panels cn be re-done in the same material. Most of your local cabinet makers will quote you on this work.

I would also take the opportunity to add a high bench where the sink is, and turn that into a breakfast bar, as this will increase your bench space

As mentioned, keep your WM seperate to your eating area

good luck with the project

Do NOT install "Clip Boards"
These are known as a "Floating Floor" and although they initially look great and are cheap, your tenants will wreck hem within the first 6 months- Guaranteed.
The issue with these boards is that they don't accept water at all. None. Nada. Zip
we lay 1000's of sqm of flooring every year, and floating floors are great for commercial areas, shops offices etc, but not for residential.

Solid timber and my favourite Bamboo, look great and wear considerably well, however, they will be expensive to lay, especially if they are going down on a slab (Assuming you have a slab).

As much as i hate carpet, this is he cheapest option, or ceramic tiling.
Carpet can be laid in a day and is very cost effective, whereas the tiles will take up to a week for a full house.

Hope this helps you make an informed decision