Hello, Thank you Josh to for directing me as to how to start my own thread.
I have been watching this forum for a few weeks now and I find it very interesting. As I have started contributing to threads or rather asking questions I though I best introduce myself.
I am 30 and have a PPOR that I have to pay off for quite sometime LVR 66%
I have signed an off the plan contract for a purchase of a block of land (paid the deposit by bank guarantee against my PPOR). I am now busy saving as when the time for settlement comes I would like to be able to pay the deposit in cash and thus set up the loan for this Investment property seperate to my homeloan.
I think this is probably not the smartest way to use my money.. perhaps I should be paying my saved funds into my PPOR and keeping the properties together to keep payments lower as well as likely some tax implications that I am yet to learn of etc? I am also thinking that I would like to pay a P&I loan on the land rather than and Interest only – again I read this would be a mistake. What I am struggling with is why?
Have you heard of a line of credit loan (LOC) ? (do a search on the forum for heaps more info)
You can borrow up to 80% LVR against your PPOR
So take the value of ppor * 80 / 100 and then subtract from the result what you owe on it.
This final subtract result figure is what you could borrow if you can service the loan.
You may be able to borrow enough for the deposit for the land and then get another loan using the LOC funds as a deposit if you can service both loans.
Best part LOC is for investment purposes and is separate from the PPOR loan for tax return.
if not renting and claiming expenses against rent you claim expenses and interest costs as a cost base increase keep records .
So the risk to PPOR can be minimised if you pay off the LOC loan ASAP.
Intrigue wrote:
I think I am what you would call a Buy and Hold investor (please help me with identifying what I call myself if this is incorrect). My plan is not to sell for a long time. My goal would be to own several properties (no debt) at early as possible so that I may retire with the passive income of my properties rental income, selling the properties as I age and as required to sustain my lifestyle… IS THIS SILLY? If not what kind of investor am I, whats my label?
You are almost on a good plan however do not bust your guts to pay off all the debt. I have thought about this type of investing and to me it makes more sense to get the investment debt down to a level where the rental income = expenses incurred.
That way you can hold the property and while it is rented out it costs you nothing to hold it. Also the rent increases over time !
Then you can borrow against it as an LOC for a deposit to buy another property if you wish to.
Label – Passive investor – buy and hold – with positive gearing as final goal !
however if you build a house on it you are also a bit of an active investor / developer
(plus if new building and you rent it out see building write off depreciation do a search on this in forum)
Intrigue wrote:
I have followed my realestate industry very closely for the past 5 years, I have red a few books and attended seminars however all I have really learned is that you must be careful where you learn as differing teachers values can take you down differing paths. Now I have great conflict within that I need to resolve and I hope that the kind people here may help.
The primarly being the whole concept of lending to invest. For years I was taught you buy and investment property, if you are lucky and claim all tax benefits effectively the new home will only cost you approx $100pw paying a interest only loan. Soo… I dont return any income on a weekly basis infact I pay, I dont pay off any pricipal so in 25yrs I still dont own it and I am solely relying on capital growth to return my investment of $100pw. Plus I take risk on it not been rented or decreasing in value and potentially risk my PPOR…. Why would I do this?
I must commend you for seeing this fact most new investors do not see this main point.
If you pay for the short fall each week and negative gear you have to make a gain of a certain amount to cover the loss each year.
now with lower tax rates if you are on a marginal rate of 30% then for every $100 you spend in expenses you get $30 back if you earn income from a job.
So if you make say 7% a year in capital gain at the end you get a 50% discount after 12 mths and then get taxed 30%.
So say you spend 100 a week that is a 3640 a year loss after tax return for say 10 years 36,400 lost so you need a capital gain of $43,000 to break even before CGT tax is paid out.
What you need to consider is paying off more to get to a cash flow positive position ASAP.
By doing the pay more off it you will be able to borrow and buy another property and do the same thing again.
Intrigue wrote:
I'll stop ranting now, thanks for reading, your thoughts are most welcomed.
Please note my writing style is not aimed to offend anyone rather me thinking out loud and asking you enlighen me by perhaps challenging my thoughts.
p.s capital growth in metro areas averages out to 7% p.a over 10 years. I have experienced 9% p/a but 7% is better for guessing the future value of property in 10 years time. !
if you have an investment property in both your names as joint title then time the sale for the financial year your wife is not working. If you own it in both your joint individual names for more than 12 months you get 50% discount. So if you have one property that has a lot of capital gain it may be better to sell it and cop the capital gains tax.
Lets for an example say you had a property with say $300,000 in capital gain joint owned by the two of you sold for $600,000 300,000 / 2 for 50% discount = 150,000 gain 150,000 / 2 for joint ownership = 75,000 gain for both of you. for an example say you earn $80,000 plus another 40,000 rent so total 120,000 Tax at 120,000 is 38% say wife earns 40,000 from rent tax for wife is 30% So add 75,000 to each income you pay 75,000 * 0.43( add in medicare) = 32,250 wife pays 75,000 *0.30 = $22,500 Total tax for cgt approx $54,750 so $300,000 minus 54,750 = $245,250
if you pay down debt with proceeds pay off LOC and part of your mortgages
2,000,000 – $245,250 = $1,754,750 debt 3000,000 – $600,000 = 2,400,000 value (if prop was worth $600,000) 1754750/ 2400000 = 73 % LVR so 2400000 * .80 = 1920000 So $ 165,250 breathing space on your debt.
I read somewhere in steve's book that sitting on equity can be a waste as you have these serviceabilty problems where as if you release the equity ,cop a capital gain and pay the CGT it can improve your overall LVR, reduce your debt and reduce your interest costs. When your wife starts working again you are in a better position to buy another investment property as your debt is less and LVR is lower.
I am getting totally confused by listening to the bank (via email with no visual calculations) and friends. So now its time to ask the experts.
Currently I own an investment property. It was valued today for $245k and currently has a mortgage of $140k on the property.
I work out that I have $56k in equity with which I can borrow against – leaving 20% in the property.
245k * 80% = 196k – Loan to Value ratio so 196k / 245 k = 80% LVR
196k – 140k = 56k 80% LVR – existing mortgage = what is left that you can borrow
nalsem wrote:
Can someone please tell me how much I could then borrow?
I am currently looking at another property which is on the market for $270k so including fees 10k would be a loan of $280k. If I calculate 80% of this property is $224k and my equity would cover the 20% (56k) I would escape LMI?
Yes you would escape LMI
If you live in Vic State Stamp duty is $10,757 and then the solicitor fees and bank loan establishment fees!
nalsem wrote:
Or do the banks calculate things differently?
Banks also look at if you can afford to repay the loans especially with the new credit laws So go and ask the bank how much based on your situation can be borrowed This is known as serviceability
You have two ways of using the 56k (1) Line of Credit loan on existing property to get 56k
(2) Bank lumps both properties together and cross secures both properties to give you the loan (if you want to sell a property it can make things difficult or if you get behind in a payment the bank could sell both properties) loan one + loan two / property one value + property two value 140 + 280 / 245 + 270 420 / 515 = 81.5% LVR
Hi, in general, say if I earn $60000 before tax and if my IP lost is $7000 per year (lose from IP due to higher interests and bills) + special building write off say $3500 per year + depreciation allowance on materials and plants say $4000 per year.
Using the formula above, this that mean I only pay tax on:
$60000 gross income – $7000 (lose from IP due to higher interests and bills) – $3500 (building write off) – $4000 depreciation allowance = Total Taxable gross income of $45500?
Is the above method correct? If not, what is the correct method of calculating?
Thanks Heaps
New taxable income = $60,000 gross income + (rental income – $7000 -3500 -4000) if rental income -$7000 -3500 – 4000 equals a negative figure it is a net property loss that is subtracted from gross wage if rental income -$7000-3500 – 4000 equals a positive figure is is a net property income that is added to gross wage
on the tax return form there is a place labelled as net property loss / income
You have to get the construction cost of the building
The Air Conditioner , Floor coverings, hot water service, curtains are not construction cost but rather fittings. These all have various effective lives for depreciation and it is hard to find out the effective lives but I would guess around 5 to 8 years. However a quantity surveyor could be employed by you to work this all out for you. So for example say construction cost was for an example 120,000 then 120,000 * 2.5/100 = $3000 p/a for 40 years. please note this 3000 is subtracted from your cost base if you claim depreciation. (More capital gains tax) Then if as an example the fittings came to $20,000 then 20,000 / 8 = $2500 p/a so $5,500 per year in depreciation could be possible but a quantity surveyor would gives you a better idea on the exact depreciation schedule.
This figure is for showing how the depreciation is calculated. As I am not aware of the exact construction costs and what value the fittings are and what the effective life of your fittings are the figure worked out is not accurate and is a guess
A quantity surveyor will give a very accurate and detailed depreciation assessment report you can give straight to your accountant . For building write off it has to be recently built I think the date is 1987 onwards but not completely sure.
First thing – Welcome to the forum Well what you need to do is get your finances in order. What I mean is do not go out and buy the most expensive car brand new on finance and after spending five years paying it off you have a car with the value of about one fifth what it originally cost you. Or buy a 3d television, ect
One thing to be aware of that is different is that you do not have to buy a property where you live if it is investment. So you could buy a rural investment to get your foot into the property market. It may not go up in capital value but you have a toe in the market. Once you have paid it off You then have a security you can borrow against or sell to fund the deposit for the next property purchase.
Another method is what is called a joint venture this would require you to network with other property investors so as to share the cost of investment for a property.
The thing with property is the first one is the hardest and once it either goes up in value or you pay it off you have an easier time buying the next one. As you now have extra income helping you pay for the next one and also the security to borrow against.
I am in a similar situation to you as I am not full time employed so I am currently paying down a HECS debt and doing courses so I am ready when all my debt is paid off and then I will start saving toward my next property investment.
If there was a bond it is in a special trust account that is used to hold the bond. So it needs to be assigned to you as an interested person
The tenant may leave if the property has been sold . They sometimes do that not realising the new owner wants to rent the property. If the property is rented through a property manager contact the property manager and state what is going on and they will organise all this as part of their service.
It is very hard to change the structure once you have purchased a property without incurring stamp duty and capital gains tax.
I was in a similar situation and sold my negatively geared property and had to kick a tenant out as negative gearing also affects centre link and family office payments as they deem the lose as income to work out your payments. Even though you can't get a tax refund and they do it on the whole 50% share of the loss you claim even though you are lucky to get even 25% back as a tax return if you were working.
Was the subdivision already done when you purchased the investment or did you sub divide it. If you sub divided it you need to work out the vacant land value originally so you can work out the capital gains implications of selling the vacant land. Also you need to factor in holding costs if no rental income has come from the vacant land as this can be added to the cost base. You need to factor in sales commission if selling through a real estate agent as a cost of selling.
Residential property doesn't go up in value just because the rent went up. You need to look at comparative recent sales in your area with similar houses to get an idea of the possible value or look at the council rates notice it gets revalued every two years.
Can you afford more debt ? As you may be able to take a line of credit loan against the investment property as security or against the property you live in for the extension. The LOC separates the original investment loan from the new private use loan (LOC) for tax purposes and is usually up to 80% LVR 475k + new LOC = 80 /100 / 855k new loc = (855k* . -475k (existing debt) new loc = 209k This is not money it is a loan so you need to be able to service the loan to be able to borrow it as a line of credit.
Hi, I'm new to all of this and would like an opinion on our current situation. We live in the suburbs, have a small mortgage on our current residential property. Can we then negatively gear the suburban residence?
We are looking at purchasing a country property, to live in, and to commute daily into the city for work. Do we take out a fresh mortgage on the new country property
It really depends on your goals. If you wish to negative gear it makes sense to have the higher mortgage in the investment property and have the lowest possible mortgage in the main residence you live in as it is not tax deductible for expenses incurred. This means selling the city property and putting the proceeds into the country property and then borrowing through a line of credit loan against the country property for the deposit for the investment loan for a new investment property. Then you can claim the LOC and new investment mortgage as investment expenses. While the main residence is not tax deductible but you have reduced the mortgage amount while maximizing equity.
If you wanted to positive gear property you would rent out the old property with the low mortgage and pay it off ASAP and then buy another investment property and pay it off ASAP.
Megsy35 wrote:
or use the equity in the current residence to pay for the new country property? Can we then negatively gear the suburban residence? How can we make the most out of this type of situation? Any suggestions and advice would be most appreciated. Megsy
I have mentioned this quote again as this is a common mistake made by new investors that the ATO looks for (AUDIT target) You can't borrow money on your old house to buy a replacement new house and then claim the new loan against the old house rental property. It fails the purpose test and will result in a chat with the Australian Tax Office if you try and claim this way.
P.S You might want to search the forum for negative gearing as with the new tax cuts negative gearing may not be the best option for investing and by reading a few of the previous posting you will know the pros and cons of this method of investing.
I was told that banks do not like to lend to trusts. However a company owned by a trust can borrow, however the director goes guarantor for the company loan, which you would have to declare to another bank that as a director you have guaranteed a loan for .company XYZ. And with these new credit laws you have to prove you can afford the loans/
I think the problem lies with the council requirements. Like for example Minimum distance from street frontage Minimum driveway wide for common property Minimum land space for each dwelling for recreation rather than building Where is the sewerage going to run from the dwellings – uphill doesn't work ! Stormwater where does it go ? Turning circles for vehicles. 650 m2 sounds like the figure
but what you need to do is get a team together first. A designer / architect A private town planner for the suburb you are looking at- would be helpful or ask the council You can have a pre planning meeting with the council with the design to try and find out if the design is ok. A surveyor
Is your goal to get a small tax refund through negative gearing ? Is it to increase your income through positive gearing ? (this might apply if house one has a low loan)
If you rent out your Main residence you need to get it valued or deem it to remain your main residence through applying the six year CGT main residence rule however the new house would lose its main residence exemption for capital gains tax as only one dwelling at a time can be deemed a main residence. Warning – do not do the following Borrow against the equity of house number one and then try and claim this equity loan interest as an interest cost against house one's rental income. Why because you fail the purpose test. The purpose of your extra equity loan was for your new PPOR rather than for investment. Warning – Do not do this as well Borrow for your new house and then try and claim the interest on the new loan against house one income. Why because you fail the purpose test. The purpose of your new loan was for your new PPOR rather than for investment.
Also the ATO looks for these common mistake and starts an audit on the tax payer.
If the bank is telling you you can do this they will most likely tell you to take out a bigger loan secured by both properties. This sounds great but it limits your ability to sell one of these properties and also if you have difficulty paying off the loan you can lose both properties. I am advising you to do a search in this forum on the following key words
Line of credit LOC cross security cross colaterisation
You can either get the property valued when you move in and have a record of what the sell price was when you moved in. As you have moved in you actually create a capital gains event by changing from investment to main residence. The valuation is one method and gives you a record. THe main thing is to keep records for the life of the asset !
The other is that you can proportion the time you had it as an investment as opposed to the time it was a main residence. ie Capital Gain taxable = number of days as investment property * capital gain / (total number of days owned) As the property market is slowing down the gain should be small and if over 12 months you get a 50% discount on the capital gain.
Provide a statement at the end of the financial year that lists income and dispersments. Renew the lease before it expires If the tenant has not paid the rent send them and landlord a letter stating that eviction will commence in 14 days if payment not received.
Looked at web site code. You need to change the meta name description from home to your business name. You need to put in keywords in HTML code so search engines can crawl your web site and find search terms.
What geographical locations are rental properties managed and sold.
Amanda, I suggest you ring a few insurance companies or insurance brokers and state that you need building and contents insurance with no one living full time in the house due to it being renovated. A lot of insurers won't insure if no one is living in the house. I have used land lords insurance to cover this but it is the building that is insured rather than contents. Not sure on the contents as well being insured without someone living in the premises. One of those insurance companies will know who and what does this sort of scenario for insurance. It could be a specialized insurance policy and that is why I am suggesting a referral from an insurance company.
You might consider needing public liabilty insurance in case a worker gets injured on the reno job.
You could try IMAR as a starting point as they do business insurance and might have a better grip on these scenarios http://www.imar.com.au/#/contact
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