Forum Replies Created
- Anon_ wrote:I would be very cautious in buying properly over the next 6 months.
Why this 6 months in particular? And do you mean everywhere?
While I think you should always be cautious and do your research, there's always somewhere that's at the bottom of the cycle. Just need to know where.
I'd be interested in knowing your reason for the statement.
Unless you have a valuation made at the time you moved out you will pay a %. ie if you have owned it for 6 years and it was your PPOR for three years, you'll pay CG on 3/6 years.
So half of the gain (minus purchase costs etc plus depreciation). But you only pay half the CG as you have owned it for more than a year.So 250-152 = 98 (so without all the extra's) You'll pay tax on 3/6 of that so $49K but you only pay on half so you'll pay tax on $24,500.
It will be less due to other costs deducted.brmiau wrote:I still like the idea of sticking the money in a compounding interest account and watch it grow, then live off the interest and savings. But that doesn't seem to be too popular. Not sure how to tackle the property/real estate investment.I have a friend who's dad is really sick, still working at age 69, planned to retire in the new year but probably won't live long after that. It really makes me not want to work much after 50. Why spend all your life working, plan to retire and only be around a little bit to enjoy it.
You need to get a book on basic economics to help you understand why this is not the best strategy. If you retire at 50 your money will need to last you 30+ years. Assuming you live off the interest your money is not growing over time and is actually decreasing in real terms. With inflation the cost of living will double in that 30 years but you'll still be receiving the same interest payments that you receive when you are 50. I hate to say it but you'd have to go back to work in your 60's in order to live.
20 years ago $30,000pa was a decent wage. Now it's below the poverty line.As I said, you need investments that grow (at least) along with inflation.
gmh454 wrote:Right now why rush into property, until you can see factors that convince you of a turn around.
Because then you've missed the boat.
gmh454 wrote:and as for you buddy "If you can just stand still while others are going backwards", you wind up in front
Good luck
You may be ahead of the ones going backwards but you are not any further ahead than where you originally were. You can only get ahead by moving forwards.
The thing with buying in areas you don't know or haven't been to is that you don't know the good/bad streets/parts of suburbs etc.
I did a lot of research on a town in NSW. Looked at 8 properties coming up for auction. Decided on 3 I would bid on but when I visited it was a different story. One place which the agent was raving about turned out to be a problem. As luck would have it the agentr couldn't take us there and a young apprentice took us and started telling us about the street brawls etc. The street was a no go zone. Agents wouldn't take the properties on their rent roll due to issues there.
I'm actually finding better deals in Sydney. I can do a quick reno and get 7.5% yield with increased equity. I wouldn't buy regional again.I know people buy sight unseen but I'd want to be familiar with the area. Houses can look lovely on the net and of course the agent will give it glowing reports. Tread carefully.
brmiau wrote:Who knows…. maybe I'm thinking to far ahead. Should just concentrate on paying off the mortgage then take it from there. Have an extra $1000-$1400 a week to live it up.I don't think you can ever look to far ahead. Keep looking, reading and you will find something that suits you. I grew up thinking that it's important to own your own home outright (that's what my mum taught me). If I had been given different advice, however I would have retired a long time ago.
What I wish I was taught was how to leverage my money. I'll give a very simple example, hypothetical. Let's assume property doubles every 10 years.
Secnario 1-So you have your PPOR worth $500K (you owe $400K) and you happily pay it off for 15 years. So now your home is worth $1,250,000Scenario 2- Same PPOR but instead of paying off your PPOR you buy 2 investment properties worth $300K each (loans $240Keach). So 15 years down the track you have 3 houses worth $1,250,000 + $750K + $750K = $2,750K minus the loans ($400 + $240 + $240 = $880. So your net worth is now $$1,870,000
Now that is a VERY simple example of gearing your money. It is not a particularly good strategy (as the properties are costing you money) but you get the idea. I would want to get properties whereby you can still pay down your home. As time goes on as well the properties cost less to hold (rents rise etc).
You have time on your side, if you are interested there is a waelth of knowledge out there. You just need to find what fits with your life. You're in a good position to make things work for you. good luck.
I just buy whatever makes money. People have to live everywhere. Not everyone can live in the city (even if they wanted to). There will always be demand for houses in the suburbs of large cities.
But you post is more about where "you" want to live. I'm looking from an investment perspective. So where I want to live is irrelevant.
brmiau wrote:Hrmmm…. it may be a floored plan then i spose.We are going to try to pay $1400 (hopefully) a week off our loan as of march. Lots of stuff inbetween like our wedding and honeymoon. The US for 4 weeks, cant wait!! Anyway, that means the house will be payed off in just under 5 years. Meaning we'll be 31.
Congrats on the wedding!!
Unless you are planning on having no children I seriously doubt you'll be able to continue saving that type of money.brmiau wrote:We could wait until its paid off, or only a little bit left on it, then buy one or two investment properties and hopefully rent them out and only pay around $500 a week to make up the difference. Is it wise to buy more than one at a time? Also, I asked earlier but didn't really make heads or tails of the answers. Are apartments/unit or houses a better investment? What about buying a bigger block of land and doing a demo and building multiple units?Again lots of questions but you guys are helping a lot!!
OK you need to do a LOT of research. You state you will "hopefully" rent it out and "only" pay around $500 a week. NO! NO! NO!
This is the mistake most people make. By buying property like this you will hit a wall after buying 2 and your lifestyle is out the door. My properties cost me NOTHING to hold (as of the November interest rate drop).
The answer is not units VS houses. It's all in the numbers. If the numbers work, you buy it. My purchases have to be under market value (I won't buy anything I couldn't sell within a year and make a profit) and it has to be close to cash flow neutral or better (unless it had development potential).
It's good that you are starting to think about this now, while you are young.
Get some investment books and start reading and set some goals.Die Hard wrote:Can anyone help with the following-
If you take a bank loan to renovate and then claim the renovation loan as an investment expense, can you additionally also claim depreciation if you're renovating using a loan???Is it an investment expense or are you just claiming it is?
If the renovation is on an investment property you are able to claim depreciation on the renovation. Where the money came from is irrelevant. If the money is borrowed to do a renovation on an investment property the interest payable is tax deductable.
Either way works. It's just what you are comfortable with. If you plan to buy more the extra equity will be handy. But if you are paying down your mortgage quickly you'll have extra equity anyway. Depends how fast you want to expand and your risk profile. Also you should have a cash buffer for when things don't go to plan. LMI is tax deductable.
Personally I like a lower LVR, especially in uncertain times.How can they apply for the loan in the son's name? Unless they are also on the loan? If the son is on the loan he is liable (not the parents).
OK so assuming an average of 2% inflation per year (which is low) your $110,000 (assuming retirement at 55) is worth $73,000 in todays money. As mentioned, this is taxed at the normal rate. Also the cost of living will be a lot higher. 20 years ago I could live on $25,000 a year. Ok so you retire at 55. What about the next 30 years? Remember your money is worth less each year.
Your figures also assume an interest rate of 5%. This is a high average. Some years it would be a lot less. Also the world hates a vacuum. If there's a hole it will be filled. What I mean by this is, if you have extra money you usually find a way to spend it. When I was at UNI I lived on next to nothing. I'm not a spender but I like holidays etc and have them. I have no (personal) mortgage and like to live my life which is why I buy properties that put money in my pocket, not take it out. The proplem is most people equate owniong property with a reduction in lifestlye. You just need to do it correctly. .
So remember economics 101. Savings erode over time (ie it's worth less each year)
Debt erodes over time (ie the debt is smaller comparitavely speaking each year).Say you buy an investment property and never pay it off. If you pay (for example) $300,000 and borrow $240K. In 20 years time the property is worth $700,000 and your debt is still $240K. Now in 20 years time $240,000 is not a lot of money.
If you buy a good property (even if it's slightly negatively geared) in a few years you can still follow your plan (albeit misguided) but you'll also have a property going up in value.
brmiau wrote:Thanks again for all the info. Have done some calculations with a compounding interest calculator online and it seems thats the way where going to go. Pay off the mortgage by 34, continue to pay $1000 a week into a compounding interest account. By the time we're 55 we'll have $2,200,000 in the bank earning approx $110,000 a year off that. Or I could work another 5 years, retire at 60 with $3,000,000 in the bank earning $150,000 off that. Or retire at 50 with $1,100,000 in the bank earning $50,000 a year off that. Retiring at 50 sounds best, but probably 55 is more likely. Any one have any thoughts on that?Yeah I have LOTS of thoughts on that. In 20 years time you'd be battling to live on $50,000. And don't forget you need to pay tax on that. Not my idea of a fun retirement.
That is NOT a good strategy. As time wears on your money becomes worth less due to inflation.
You need investments that GROW as time goes on like mmm let me think, what's something that is worth more over time? I know Property.I'll write more when I get home from work.
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Hi,
it really depends on the house itself. Is it structurally sound? There are so many variables that no-one knows.eg does the house need rewiring? Is the roof OK? Do the windows need replacing? Are the floorboards usable or need replacing? Do walls need moving/replacing?
This could vary by many thousands.This is all before reno costs. A basic reno after that is not that expensive assuming you know where to source materials and are willing to use a bit of elbow grease.
You really need to have a good idea of costs BEFORE you consider something like this.
You need to do a cost analysis including all costs (including holding costs, buying costs etc) to work out whether it is financially viable.
You can't just guess and "hope" to make money. .I think it would be worth your while to make a trip to Sydney for a few.
I have never had any good come from talking with financial advisors (tried for years) but a mortgage broker can help prevent common mistakes (cross collateralize etc). This can cause lots of problems and restrict your ability to move forward. Having your loans set up correctly is very important.
Also talking to a property savvy accountant about structures. Having things set up (buying in correct entity etc) is also very important if you want to build a substantial portfolio (or even if you want to buy, sell for profit). There are ways to legitimately reduce your tax.Why would you want to pay $70,000 more for a new unit? In 5 years time they are both older units. So you are willing to buy something that is almost double the median of the area. Very risky.
Be VERY careful when buying off the plan.
For $330K you can get a house in Liverpool. Do some more research.We looked at one in Sydney 3 years ago. It looked very attractive (money wise and visually). We ended up buying a VERY small 1 bed unit instead. It has risen 50% in the last 3 years. The serviced apartments have gone up less than 10%. Because there are a lot of them there are always a few for sale so whatever the lowest price someone is willing to sell for sets the price. Steer clear.
JacM wrote:Catalyst wrote:JacM wrote:i use AAMI building + contents insurance plus landlord insurance with tenant protectionWhy do you get contents insurance? Is it furnished?
No not furnished. However you do need SOME contents insurance to cover things such as the window coverings (curtains) and carpets. Believe it or not, they are not considered part of the building itself. Ask your insurer to explain what things in rental are not covered by building insurance and you'll soon find out.
With some inmsurers that is correct, however you said you were with AAMI.
With AAMI landlords building insurance they DO cover carpet and curtains so you are paying twice. It seems like YOU need to read your policy.