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  • Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    There are a few things people don’t understand about a good banking relationship.

    The reality is all bank staff at westpac, ANZ, CBA and NAB are getting the importance of being a customers main financial institution drilled in to them. As financial markets are tightening the banks are looking to gain more revenue from each client ( without the need of throwing more money out the door). To the extreme of this is the business banking sector where Westpac and NAB will happily decline a deal if they don’t have the customers main trading accounts. Lending to a client with no other products is often now referred to as a dry lend. Banks are trying as hard as possible to move away from dry lending…

    A recent example of this for me was a bank declining a 0.7% discount for a 550k loan (55%LVR) and the same day approving a 0.7% discount for a loan of 275k (77% LVR). The 275k has house insurance, life insurance, bank accounts etc all with the bank. The 550k was a dry lend. I argued the 550k client 10 years in current employment and strong servicing but they would not budge.

    When you talk about flexibility; if you have mulitple products and a long history with the banks they will bend over backwards to keep you.

    Examples i’ve seen so far this year include;

    Loans approved as full doc without financials
    loans turned around from application to settlement in 48 hours
    investment loans unit trust (at retail rates)
    unsecured personal overdrafts (keep a deal within 80%)
    loans approve with servicing shortfall
    credit suggesting rate discounts to get servicing over the line

    Split banking will only help you if you’re not disclosing your debts to other lenders. It will prevent you from getting concessions re policy and pricing and also make it harder (and expensive) to access equity accross your portfolio ( you need to apply to all your lenders).

    For all the brokers out their their claiming in industry magazines and sites like brokernews.com.au that banks favour direct deals over broker deals: you almost right. The problem is that most broker deals are dry lends.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    You cant just pick a valuer or the bank might non accept the valuation. ANZ use to let brokers order valuations before submitting a deal. I don’t know if they still do.

    CBA allow you to order your own (if you pay for it) via their website – you don’t even need to be a customer.

    With CBA it automatically selects a valuer after you’ve orderred it. If you use another valuer from their panel it can not be used (must be the specific valuer from their computers random selection). This is to stop bankers and brokers getting too close to certain valuers and having potential to influence the figure. If you do use a CBA website orderred bal it comes back to you: not the bank. You can then submit it with your application and it will be accepted.

    BankWest can be a little unpredictable – they’ve always had processing problems and don’t (as far as I am aware) approve the mortgage insurance.

    Are you using a broker or going direct?

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    stephen@longwater wrote:
    My experience is that the lender will fund on the basis for the lesser of the 2; contract or val. That has been in policy for sometime, but havent come across any scemarios of that sort for a while so not clear where policy is today.

    Generally speaking this is true but if you have a good relationship with your bank and a good risk grade then they should will bend on policy a bit. I would say you should be fine with a major if you are within 80% and it is overall a good deal.

    I’m seeing a lot of things like this where you can only get the rules bent if your a long term customer with multiple products:- not new to bank. I wouldn’t even try if you had transactional accounts etc held with a different lender.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Unfortunatly that is a risk at 95% lend. You could get it valued before auction however this will be your max e.g. The bank will take the lower of purchase price or Val: – if you buy higher at auction you might only get 95% of the valuation already done.

    Depending on the lender you might be able to order and pay for your own valuation.

    Which lender are you using?

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    My post won’t be popular. I’ve read most his books and seen him speak. Banjo is correct he made no money from his own teachings: – his money has been made from writing books and public speaking :- )
     
    He has lost a lot of credibility in recent years due to 'rich dad' being based on fictional characters and his involvement in network 21 (related entity to Amway). Most qualified people in the finance, accounting or legal sectors will say his teachings are simply flawed and incorrect and he is simply a motivational speaker. Sales people in Real Estate, Amway and other groups targeting the lameman investor use his books to hype up potential investors and make them feel smart parting with their money.  

    Funny thing is that most of his supporters are in the lower social economic classes.

    I think his books are great for the teenager / kids learning about money. If your want to be a sophisticated investor you can’t rely on what your learn in year 7 economics,

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Hans,

    Is brokersite an actual franchise?

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Major 4 or one of the banks they own (St George / Bankwest). I can’t think of a good reason to use a non bank unless there was a problem getting it approved with a bank. Stay away from mortgage managers and anyone with high DEF (deferred establishment fees).

    In the current market the banks are usually more flexible than other lenders and their rates are competive (bar Westpac). In terms of leanience I will start and CBA and end at NAB – ANZ / Westpac both somewhere in the middle.

    NAB are by far the smallest in the housing market out of the banks. Their loan book is under 50% of CBA (NAB is the biggest for business banking). NAB have sent some doc prep and application processing offshore where CBA bankers can approve a loan on the spot and print your contracts at first appointment (assuming you have contract of sale etc). With this in mid CBA have the quickest turnaround – NAB the slowest.

    I’m sure some people would disagree. I still get plenty of deals through CBA that get knocked back by other majors. At the end of the day the most important thing is the banker or broker you use.

    A good banker / broker might turn around a deal in a week. A bad broker will take 2 months : – long delays almost always relate to your contact person rather than the actual bank.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    PC_Melbourne wrote:
    One of my colleagues has Student accommodation in Melbourne.
    He paid 138k for it 2-3 years ago.
    Today he can pick-up the same sized unit in the same building for $130K – 135K
    It got cashflow positive fairly quick though, and he has no intention of selling it as yet, but its certainly not growing in value real quick.

    He’s a lucky one. Plenty of people dont recover their money at all…. With stamps and other costs – being cashflow positive is not a reason to ingore the other risks and poor your money in. You still need to buy quality property. If you do buy one – get one 3-5 years old and offer 50k under market value. Once the first few years depreciation benefits are gone you can buy one well under asking price…

    Just don’t be the dumb ass buying from a developer or investment seminar…

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    The other post was 5th July. I can’t paste a link from my iPhone

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    You still want your investment to be worth what you pay for it.
    Most student apartments (new) are not worth what you pay for them.

    Refer comments in post titled student accomodation the finance section; re buying them off unwise investors 2-3 years later – for less that the first investors initially purchase price…

    The only people that really make money out of them ar the property investment sales people…

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    $1000 x 20% = $200 per year
    divide by 12 = $16.66 per month approx
    that is ignoring months have 30 days or 31 days etc – should be close enough.

    Keep in mind some banks work off business days e.g. If the last day of the month is a saturday you might pay interest for 33 days ( charged on the Monday). If this happens the next month will be short month e.g. Might be from the second till the 30th.

    With this in mind your monthly interest will vary however should still balance to the $200 per year.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Richard / Otto,

    I’m certainly not saying you can only get a 95% plus LMI with your existing lender however if anyone has a Cba credit card and has had it for 6 months – they qualify for 95% and the mortgage insurer doesn’t even look at the deal. A bit of forward planning would say if you’re thinking of buying – get a 1k credit card from your local branch.

    At $350 p/a which covers all your set up costs (no Val fees legal fees etc), gives you unlimited bank accounts / splits without extra fees, no annual fee on a credit card, and discounts for insurance etc….

    It beats Any non bank lender in the market!
    They even self insure some of these which means up to 25% savings on your LMI.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    You would need to have a pretty big loan to make it worth the extra fees and costs. Not to mentioned exchange risk and margin calls.

    If you’re too small for the banks profiles listed above just take an aus$ loan from a major bank and put enough in an offset account to maintain repayments for a while. When the exchange rate is to your liking; do an international transfer to your off-set.

    No point is making something more complicated and expensive than it needs to be.

    The rates might be attractive but you really need to be a private banking client to get these sort of products.

    P.s. Major banks will accept overseas income – you don’t need to live in aus to qualify for the loan…

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Who do you bank with?

    Banks prefer existing clients. If you have a credit card or existing loan with CBA and have had it more than 6 months – youcan have 95% plus LMI. Policy is no different than a 90% lend.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Anz is a min loan of 1M and income 250k. Purpose is when security is in aus and you are getting the loan via ANZ in another country.

    Keep in mind these loans have magin calls etc as security is in one currency and loan in another.

    I’d question the reasoning behind it. If you are just buying a property in aust and getting the money from an aust bank simply get the loan in aus $.

    Why do you need your loan in a foreign currency?

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Sorry drop 8k off – not 10k…

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    Sounds pretty good.

    Without LMI you can lend up to 80% against each property – this amount needs to include existing debts.

    Your calcs are almost correct. The banks won’t lend against costs therefore it is 80% of the 270k purchase as opposed to 80% of purchase and costs (280k). Drop 10k off the 224k.

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    So just out of curiosity – and to compare apples with pears.

    Are you assuming property with leverage and shares without leverage?

    Profile photo of BankerBanker
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    It all sounds nice in theory but if they only had 1.5% deposit one would think that they might not have too much cash (might be looking for a 95% lend with FHOG etc).

    Contract law / any law means diddly squat if they have no money. Even if a court orders them to pay 10% – if they don’t have it they can’t give it…

    Did you use an agent?
    If they were a cash buyer they should of had the depoist. If not confirmation of finance should have been required.

    If you used an agent they have let you down buy not qualifying the buyer. If you did not use an agent it is a good example of why maybe you should have used an agent…

    If you go down the legal path do some homework. It they couldn’t afford to buy – make sure they can afford to settle any legal claim. Otherwise cut your loses and find another buyer.

    Hopefully they come up with the finance!

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    The 80% rule is to the value of the property not the equity

    e.g. House worth 500k x 80% = 400k

    if your loan was 370k you would have access to 30k.

    You could look at. 90% LVR e.g. 450k less existing debt (net approx 25k).

    If the second option works you may only pay a small amount of mortgage insurance noting most of the debt is already insured.

    If you change banks you would pay mortgage insurance on the entire debt again.

    Banker

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