Forum Replies Created
- amazingjeffery wrote:
not sure, Joists = supports that hold floor boards up?, Bearers= joist supports?
From the cement to the joists (the ones right below the floor boards that run right the way across under the house with only like 300mm spacing is 2300mm. The bearers are probably only 2000mm. So if i sheeted the celing to the joists this would give 2200ish from floor to ceiling – tiles/carpet. So an idea was 1 by 1 remove and replace the joists with a equal span and strength RHS as it should be skinnier and give that extra height to apply the ceiling to in hope to make 2400mmto get to 2400 if i read this right you will have to gain an extra 100 mm if you lined directly to the joists ,as most joists are 125mm high then no matter what rsj/s you put in it still wouldnt reach legal height
amazingjeffery wrote:Ok so went and took some measurements last night. From the cement floor to the joists above its around 2300mm, in a 'utility room' already built from carpet to fibro ceiling its 2200ish. If i was to buy this place and build in in the future what are the methods used to do this to make legal height? Its a cement foundation so i dont think removing a few cm of that would be an option, and shaving 2 cm off the joists would be quite a task and probably require further reinforcement. I was thinking if a room size was chosen then only this livable room would require the joists to be shaved or floor to be dug in, a 2nd shower and laundry(existing) would be fine at 2200 according to the BCA. Any one done this work before or had a similar desire to?
Another thought was to remove the joists in a area where a room is to be built and replace them with steel RHS members of sufficient size to bare the load. It would have to be looked at closely but im sure an RHS member of equal rating would shave a few cm's in height off it.are you mixing your bearers and joists here or am i simply misreading it 10 times
Bexs wrote:Hi,I recently purchased an IP which I will be renovating over a year to resell. The whole house needs gutting and re doing basically including new wiring.
In regards to wiring…… I want to run all the cable myself, BUT not hook it up. All i want to do is purchase the cable myself (cheaper) and position it where I want power points to be, and where I want lights to be (also save money).
Can anyone tell me what cable I should buy for lights, and what cable I should buy for power points?PLEASE NOTE: I do not intend on hooking any of the cables up, I will get a licensed electrician in for this.
Thanks in advance
Bexs
1.5mm is for lights 10 amp
2.5mm is power 16 amps
most modern stoves these days run from a 16 amp power point
light and power circuits MUST be on seperate circuits and have breakers on eachamazingjeffery wrote:Hi,
I did a quick search and found some info but not exactly what I was looking for. Im looking at a house to purchase and the lower level is not built in yet. There is a room underneath internally but its classed as a storage room at the moment. Now from the cement to the bearers (the ones that the floor boards sit on??) is is over 2400mm however from the joists? to the cement it isnt legal height If I were to gyprock or fibro over the bearers but not over the joists leaving them exposed and still less then legal height…could rooms downstairs be created and used as bedrooms or livable dwellings? Hope i got the right names for the right things, just wondering how much has to be legal height and if exposed beams lower then the legal height would be ok considering they are only a small percentage of the ceiling height.Thanks,
Jeff
the bearers ( the big ones) hold up the joists(the ones the floorboards are attached to) and as long as finished lined ceiling is 2400 off the finished level of the floor there wont be a problem ,covering the bearer faces does not alter thisShiny wrote:I would like to render my 2 story home it is currently sheeted in Fibro in oredr to render it I need to remove the cover strips and fill the joints. I am concerned that the External Gap filler won't stand the test of time and will crack the rendering down the track. Does anyone have any advice or previous experience the this type of project?
you will have to remove the old cover strips and reline over the old fibro with blueboard then cover the joints in the blue board then render ,using the old board will only end in the render falling off
NBS wrote:Bugger it was active when I posted, as I checked first. The property is Woodridge Qld.
http://www.realestate.com.au/property-house-qld-woodridge-106424040
CazzieP wrote:My first IP had beautiful Jarrah floorboards but they were covered in black stuff under the layers of lino and carpet. After some experimenting I discovered that the stuff only extended 18 inches from the skirting and was soluble with metholated spirits it then washed off with water. I did spend a few days on my hands and knees but at least never had to sand them!It was common in the past to paint or wax only the edges and lay a rug over the rest, so lifting the edge of the carpet may not reveal the true condition of the majority of the floor, a trip into the crawlspace under the house is recommended for wooden floors to see the timber in its untreated condition (maybe can even be lifted and turned?). Where they are covered in layers of grime and glue and paint I do reckon it's worth doing a major sand because in the long run the timber floors will be an asset.
this "paint" is what is called black japan .it is more or less a black powder mixed with metholated spirits .the idea was that in the old days all floors had a centre rug and this feature was added to give the rug definition ,the japan would only penertrate slightly into the floor surface and sanding will cut through to the unstained level below
christianb wrote:Simply by doing 8 at a time you should be able to negotiate pretty substantial discounts using "normal" suppliers. If you are reasonably fastidious in documenting your requirements it's a simple matter of faxing/emailing as many suppliers as need be and entering into a little competition.and if you take this advice remember not to cc the addresses of those companies you are sending to
Qlds007 wrote:Hi TomThink we have been this route before.
There is only 2 standard lenders left i am aware of who will do lodoc construction in the current climate and the interest rates are not attractive.
Refinancing a lodoc deal is also an issue in its own rights.
Both loans would need to be done on a declared income basis.
i am not asking to refinance an existing loan .i am seeking financial options to build a new home while selling the existing ppor
dont mean to nag but there must be someone here with an option i can take for this
uaic3 wrote:Thanks Tony. I am also considering Toowoomba as an option as there seems to be a few houses there that are in the same price bracket and potential return. What do you think about Toowoomba?toowoomba is a completly different kettle of fish ,going back 8 months the place was dying from lack of water .now a pipeline has been connected from wivenhoe dam and their dams are up to 18 percent full/empty .a bit better outlook for toowoomba and still good quality buys to be had
ohh and its Tom
uaic3 wrote:I am hoping to invest in rural Queensland and I have been looking at Kingaroy as I want to spend under $250,000 and have a good rental return. Does anybody out there have an opinion about Kingaroy or any other rural town in Queensland.kingaroy is a fairly rural town ,well set out with all the basic services ,only thing that i think is a drawback is it has one major employer and that is swickers abbatoir .tarong powerhouse also employs a lot of people .good base wage town .you could pick up a fairly decent house for your $250,000 and if it was in some of the better class areas get a decent rental return
this whole project next door has been a bit of a mess. the original guys that pulled areas of the fence down ended up running off with a heap of money and this guy is a new builder that came on the scene. he doesn't care to listen to anything, and hence why if i get the same response from the owner I might have to leave it to mediation or a magistrate to decide. I may be willing to pay a small portion of what was left of the fence that they've pulled down yesterday but i don't want to pay for the sections they removed without permission which allowed them to then build to the fenceline.[/quote]
go get some legal advice ,in qld you can get a 20 minute session with a lawyer for $20 ,you will no doubt have a similar thing down there ,even if you have to pay for the consultation you will at least be armed with the correct information to throw back at them
[. However, in Qld., quoting " If more than 116kl of water is used in a four (4) month period, the tenant will be charged the extra amount at the current counci rate." I cannot see why an owner has to pay for the water that a tenant uses up to that amount as it has an individual meter. Why not also pay for their electricity or gas up to a certain quantity? Maybe I should not have said that, it may give someone ideas.!!!! I hope that was not too long winded. blondie2[/quote]
I have just bought another ip and will be including in the rental agreement that the tenent is responsible for ALL utilities used on the premises ,the pm said that i couldnt do that and i informed her that if she wanted to continue to collect a management fee she will do as i tell her ,she agreed to do it , ahh the smell of money does funny things to people
the developer has to inform you in writing as to their intention to build a new fence BEFORE they proceeded to demolish .as this was not done you are not legally obliged to contribute anything to the new fence [biggrin]
kind regards
http://www.kitcheninabox.com.au
