All Topics / Finance / Pay LMI or create LOC for deposit on 2nd IP??
Hi guys,
i have searched the forum for a solution to my dilemma only to get more confused so if anyone has a simple suggestion to my question, (or if you can direct me to a similar post) i would very much appreciate it!I am ready to buy my 2nd IP, one year after buying our first in sydney (no PPOR yet though)
- 2nd IP (in Brisbane) purchase price $440K
- The loan amount on our 1st IP stands at $292K (purchased for $335K)
- Recent sales in the same block of units are now achieving appx $400K. So being conservative, the real estate agent would value our unit at $380k – (I will definetly get it valued properly though)
- we have $30K in the offset account.
The mortgage broker has crunched the numbers and has come back with the following figures:
Purchase price $440,000
Stamp duty $14,633
Conveyancer and app fees $2600
and…
LMI $24,000!!!!!!!! that is such a waste of money in my eyes, even if it is capitalised! (i was expecting maybe $7-10K)Total loan amount of $481,233
Ok so my question is:
Should we set up a LOC on the first IP loan and access the equity in order to reduce the LMI?
and if so, how much will we be able to use toward the second loan to reduce the LMI? (i read somewhere that you can access up to 90% of the value?)
ORshould we leave the equity in the first IP and just bite the bullet and pay the LMI since it is able to be capitalised?
All comments appreciated!!
Cheers,
KylaHi Kyla, If you keep your LVR on your first IP to 80% then your total borrowing will be 80% of 380k = 304k. That means you can only increase your borrowings against that property (in the form of an LOC) by 12k. This can be used to fund the second. If you were to keep it under 80% LVR, you would only be able borrow 80% of 440k (assuming it values up at the price you're paying) = 352k. I think you'd be making yourself far to vulnerable if you push the second property to over 80% on top of pushing the first property to 80% with the 12k LOC.
So lets work backwards: You have 12k from the LOC plus 30k from your offset account = 42k. Multiply this by four to get a rough idea of the maximum price you should be paying for any property, ie 168k. This allows 5% for costs, and 20% for the required LVR.
A 440k property is probably far too ambitious yet. You'd need to wait until your first IP increases in value by another 90k or so (which may only take another three or four years) or save as much as you can to help fund the deposit directly.Thanks StumpCam,
so do you feel the same way about not not using a LOC and just paying the LMI in order to get into the market sooner? ie keep appx 75% LVR on first IP and 96% LVR (inc LMI) (93% pre LMI) on second IP?
The after tax figures look pretty good though even inc $24,000 LMI- appx $8000/yr which we can afford.
So in this case, wouldnt it be better to use the LMI to get in sooner and gain capital growth rather than wait 3-4yrs to save for a deposit (after which the value of BOTH props would have gained appx $70K each calculated on an average rate of 5%?
Sounds like a case of your Broker cross collateralising the loans hence the LMI is so expensive.
If the loans are separate then the LMI will be less.
LMI is calculated on the overall lvr on a sliding scale based on the total loan amount. Over $500K the scale jumps.
Think i would be rejigging the deal to make the numbers more acceptable.
Richard Taylor | Australia's leading private lender
oh ok, so if thats the case Richard, and we get a separate loan, will we still be able to borrow that amount or will it reduce our borrowing power?
Loan would have to be set up correctly with a LOC against the current PPOR and then a separate standalone loan against the new IP.
Richard Taylor | Australia's leading private lender
Kyla setting up the LOC is a good way to go. It's what I do. Your total borrowings will be the same if you set up an LOC. You can use the LOC to help pay for expenses etc. This should reduce your second loan and its LMI, and hence increase your borrowing power a bit. Paying LMI is fine in a rising market. As you say, it's much better to get in as early as possible, as the capital gain should swamp the cost of LMI all going well. I think it would be worthwhile getting a good property simulator, and see just how much growth rate you'd need to justify the LMI. I use an LOC on my PPoR to fund deposits on my IPs so that they can have stand-alone loans. ("stand-a-loans"!).
I know both properties increase in value, but there's a magnifying effect with equity. Say your first IP increases by 90k as I've said above. This means you can now get an additional LOC of 72k (80% of 90k). Multiply this 72k by 4 gives 288k more you can pay for the next property (so that your 72k is 25% of the total of 288k). Add that to the original 168k I said you could afford now, results in 456k you can then pay for a property.As you can see, 90k more equity in your first IP lets you borrow 288k more for your second. It may also have increased in value by the same 90k, but you're catching up fast by a factor of 3.2. It's theoretically possible to get to the point where you can stay at 80% LVR on both properties even though they are both increasing at the same rate.
Personally I'd be too nervous going over 80%, but it all comes down to what you can afford. Just make sure you do all the right what-ifs in your calculations (ie interest rates etc) and if you have enough income and yield it's ok. Once you start to get a few more than two properties it all becomes a lot more dramatic of course.
Cheers, S/COk, I understand what your saying S/C – clever thinking. i really appreciate your time and energy helping me out!
So theoretically, it doesnt really matter if we buy now or buy in 3 years time – the main difference is that the whole process will be less risky if we wait. But thats looking purely at loan amount…The main driving force of buying another IP now is that we want to secure ourselves a house in Brisbane near the parentals that we may eventually live in when/if we move back up that way. This means we would like a comfortable 3 bdr house. In 3 years time, even though we can borrow 456K at 80% LVR, the actual type of property we could get for that amount will probably be a lot smaller and older. Then our problem will be affording $3000/mth P&I repayments…. then again, if we really get stuck, we can always sell the first IP to reduce the PPOR loan…
hmmmm, so much to think about.Still a lender or 2 who will do 85% lvr if all things are equal and will waive the LMI.
Richard Taylor | Australia's leading private lender
Kyla you can afford quite a nice new four bedroom home for 450k if you're prepared to live a bit on the fringes, eg Heathwood/ Forest Lake etc. It's still only a 25 to 45 minute commute to the CBD from Heathwood depending on the time of day (23km). You can also buy new 3 bedroom townhouses for ~380k at Durack for example (17km from the CBD). My 11 year old two bedroom units in Morningside & Coorparoo sell for about 350-360k. Anything with a bit of land area close to the CBD starts to cost upwards of 550-750k. I'm just showing that you can compromise down a bit (or out a bit) if you don't want to stretch your borrowings so much, without having to settle for a shack.
It would be a real bummer if you have to sell your first IP. It's just starting to create a bit of equity. By the time you take out all the buying and selling costs, plus the capital gains tax, there won't be much left, especially if you have to deduct the net negative gearing costs along the way.
My first IPs are now 11 years old, and they are just starting to become positively geared. (only at the current interest rates of course). It's a long slow process when you are a passive buy & hold investor like me. I had 20 years of equity buildup in our PPoR before the penny finally dropped about property investment, so I at least had a good head start with equity, which allowed me to buy four IPs in the same year.
You need to buy problem properties, not solution properties as Steve tells us if you want to fast track the equity buildup. This involves solving the problems of course, which requires a lot more commitment than I'm prepared to give. I prefer to have them all in the background as much as possible.
Just a few thoughts, sorry to ramble on.
Cheers,
S/COk, i'm aiming for the buy and hold strategy too so thats why i'm looking at this prop – it is 10Km from the brisbane CBD so i think we will get some good cap growth out of it in years to come – not to mention a good rental yield.
So we went to an inspection today for a unit in our current IP's building complex, asking for offers over $415K (it is exactly the same layout except for a small balcony off the 2nd bedroom) and other units have sold this year for $400K and $405K. So i'm hoping the bank will value our IP at $400K. So…
Our current loan amount is $292K. So if we increased our current loan to 90% LVR (i know this may be risky but its easily servicable) using LOC we would have 68K to put towards the new loan and pay $5,580 LMI.
Then, together with our deposit of $30K, we will have $98K to put toward a $440K property
So borrowing $456K (inc costs)
Less $98K
Brings the total loan amount to $358K, + $2200 LMI (81% LVR)So in the end, we'll have one loan at 90% LVR and the other at 81% LVR with total LMI payable $7780.
Does anyone see any issues with this scenario??No kyla
That is the way to structure it.
If you stay with the 1 lender and amount is over $500K then your LMI premium will really start to rise.
Richard Taylor | Australia's leading private lender
Richard, what do you mean when you said:
"If you stay with the 1 lender and amount is over $500K"
we are planning to have the 2 loans with the same lender which would make our total borrowings appx $730K.
will this increase the LMI??I was also just doing some further calcs was thinking…
even though we will pay $2000 more LMI if we keep the first loan at 80% LVR and have the second at 90%, when or if we eventually move into the 2nd IP and make it our PPOR, the interest on the LOC we used for the deposit is no longer tax deductible and therefore we would be only paying $1960/year ($28,000 LOC at 7% interest) compared to $4760/yr ($68,000 LOC) if used the extra 10%….
hmmm so much to think about! Am i over analysing it!!??
scrap that last comment – i just realised i'd be paying non-deductible interest on $40K either way!
Just remember kyla, that if you're using an LOC to fund the deposit on your IP that is eventually going to become a PPOR, then keep that LOC as a separate sub-account to any other LOCs, so that you don't end up with contamination of private & investment in your LOC. I know you can only afford a small LOC now, but later you'll have the opportunity to top it up as your equity grows. Top it up as a separate LOC or LOC sub-account (depending on how your bank prefers it).
Don't do what I did! I have a 400k LOC, of which 200k funded deposits on IPs, 200k funded share investments. I then shifted my shares into super as an undeducted contribution. That instantly transformed the 200k shares debt into private debt. I can only get rid of that by paying back 400k to zero out the entire LOC.
Ok so because you didnt use a separate LOC to buy the shares which were then shifted to super, the whole LOC amount (400K) was classified as a private (non deductible) debt?? That sucks!
Not exactly Kyla, it's still 50% investment and 50% private. If you make any payment of principal, say 50k, then 25k is considered to be for the private half, and 25k is for the investment half. You have to distribute the payment exactly according to the proportions of each debt, so the only way to clear out the 50% private contamination is to pay the whole 400k. It's not that bad, because the undeducted contribution in super generates a tax free transition to retirement pension, more specifically that undeducted proportion of my super creates an equivalent tax free proportion of the pension (if that makes sense!). It would be nice to be able to kill the private debt before any other debt though. It's safer to chop your LOCs up if you can; don't have one big LOC bucket.
Cheers.ok i understand. Yet another pearl of wisdom! cheers!
Gidday StumpCam,
I'm not sure who is giving you your tax advice, but it seems a little ummm… off the mark.
The ATO's position is that you don't need to have a separate loan account so long as you clearly apportion the interest in the LoC (or any other loan account for that matter) based on what the principle balances were used for.
This of course means that your decision to move the $200K from shares to superannuation renders that component non-deductible, however it has no impact on the deductibility of the other $200K that has funded property.
You can get the principles of deductibility for the investment property from the horses mouth, here: http://www.ato.gov.au/individuals/content.asp?doc=/content/00113233.htm
The concept of some type of the mythical 'tax contamination' cured through clever loan structuring is a load of bollox. In fact, search the term 'tax contamination' whilst you're at the ATO site to help you understand what it really is.
Whilst it's true that moving assets and liabilities between personal and investment purpose may have tax implications on CGT and income tax, the concept that you can mitigate or worsen this through loan splitting is false.
Having said that, it may make it a little easier for your accountant or book keeper to reconcile come tax time,but that's about it.
If your accountant had you believing otherwise, then it's a sure fire sign you should be looking for a better one. As for the decision to move money from shares to super, there could be a real case for complaint against your adviser there too.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic. If you don't have an account, you can register here.