Can anyone help me out with some ideas or solutions to fixing gyprock that has visible drooping where the joins are. I can move it from standing on a chair and push it back into the beams but some areas have gaps that I feel if I screwed the sheets to the timber it would punch through the sheets because of the pressure I have to apply to get them to sit flat. I can’t get into the roof to glue them back in and brace it as an extension done some years ago has made space between floors impossible to crawl in.
Another problem I have is I had that old wood panelling look alike in plywood sheets in the kitchen. I’ve ripped it out and in the process taken the paper off the gyprock in parts. Has anyone been in a similar situation and what did you do to rectify the problem? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Globe.
Ummmm Globe,
Are you talking about my reno? I’m dealing with the same problems in my extension at the moment. I actually had to remove some of the ceiling to fix the sag but it was only in a small section. If I was dealing with the entire area where I couldn’t access the roof space, I would have a go at pulling it up with screws. This isn’t always possible as once the head pulls through the face paper the fixing is useless. Try locating the joist and using a hole saw (30 to 45mm) cut a hole everywhere you want a fixing. Keep the hole piece. Squeeze in plenty of No More Nails (plasterers would use stud adhesive) between the back of the sheet and the joist then push the sheet back up and hold until the glue goes of with a couple of “T” props made from some 70 x 35 pine or similar timber. When the glue is set fix the hole pieces back in the holes and patch with some cornice adhesive. It would be better to add some joint tape, mesh self adhesive type over the hole and then topcote to prevent cracking but you know reno’s.
As for the torn paper, remove all the glue then run a scraper over to get the wall as flat and free from dags as you can. If the edges of the paper are loose you should remove them with a stanley knife. Just cut around the damaged paper 1mm deep then peel off the loose stuff. Fill with cornice adhesive and repeat until you are happy with the filling. Give it a sand with a joint sander with some P120 grit paper. You could use some topcote again on the final coat as this is easier to sand than cornice cement. You might find a few places you missed when you paint the wall but just fill them with cornice cement and sand then paint away.
Hope this helps. Trust me I’m a carpenter!
Good luck.Just to add, the T props go from the floor to the ceiling and the top of the T is flat against the ceiling to distribute the load.
You can use base coat instead of cornice cement but I prefer cornice cement as it goes off quicker.Cheers Winzer!
That’s a great idea with the holesaw to get in there to glue! I didn’t think of that. It’s sounds alot more easier than what I thought I had to do!
Looks like I’ll be keeping myself busy now that I’ve got some handy hints up my sleeve.
ThanksGlobe.
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